Health
& Lifestyle Pages (site
index lists page contents) Chinchilla
Behavior: Relating to People and Other Animals
Chinchilla
Introductions and Group Dynamics/ Chintelligence
and Communication/
Dental Health/ Exercise
and Play Grooming,
Fur and Skin Health/ Healing:
Ailments & Remedies/ Nutrition/
Origins
and Wild Chinchillas Today

*The
Red Print: Please Read First
*Adoption
Source, or Background, and Behavioral Expecations (pet breeder, ranch,
pet store, re-homing, rescue)
*General
Characteristics of Behavior
*Routines
(exercise, sleep and covering cages)
*Initiating
Bonding, A Hands-On Approach (first contact procedure)
*Relating
to Your Chinchilla (chin scratches or grooming, playtime bonding,
catching and handling)
Continued on next page:
*Environmental
Stress (attitude and behavior determinants, basic ways to prevent
stress, potential stress factors)
*Anti-Social
Behavior (biting; urine-spraying- single female chin syndrome; rearing
up and chattering teeth; hostilely pursuing, cornering, fur-pulling)
*Facts
About Discipline
*Behavioral
Rehabilitation: Addressing Biting and Urine-Spraying
Continued on next page:
*Relating
Articles
*Compatibility
With Other Animals (chins and buns don't mix)
*As
Classroom Pets -and- Are Chinchillas a Good Pet for Children? (pets
for kids) |
If you're having
a serious behavioral problem with your chin, we're always happy to
help with advice or
referrals. Chinchillas are complex and each is truly unique, there
aren't as many behavioral "absolutes" as there are behavioral
patterns or guidelines, and it is some of these that we impart based
on our years of working with hundreds of chins via our
chinfamily that's numbered at over thirty since 2002, rescue work
since 2000 and saving ranchies
since 2004.
We encourage people
to first be knowledgeable, and then empathetic and intuitive with
their chins, and above all they should be patient and resolved
never to compromise their chin's health, happiness or safety.
Chinparents know their chins best and ultimately any decision they
make regarding their chins is entirely their prerogative AND responsibility.
It is
important to keep a new chin out of sight/ contact (across the room
is ok) of your other chin/s not only for quarantine
reasons, but because until chins are introduced
it violates their natural territorial
instinct and creates an environmental
stress factor that can ruin the potential for bonding with either
you or other chins.

ADOPTION SOURCE, OR BACKGROUND, AND BEHAVIORAL
EXPECTATIONS
(pet
breeder, ranch,
pet
store, re-homing,
rescue)
Some general points, from our and other's observation and experience,
about what to expect when adopting...
FROM A PET OR "HOBBY" BREEDER
bonding
with people
Pet breeders, especially those with a small breeding herd of about
a dozen chins or fewer, sometimes refer to themselves as a "hobby
breeder." Chinchillas from this background often take easily
to bonding with people because pet breeders tend to spend time handling
and socializing their kits.
bonding
with other chins
Introductions
are required,
but these chins often have a positive social disposition.

FROM A RANCH (In the U.S., ranches
sell primarily for pets or breeding stock)
Chinchillas that come from a ranch have been kept
in a confined space with no human interaction
or socialization with other chins. We take sheets (no
strings, fringe or loose weave) along
when we do Pet
Homes For Ranchies (PHFR)
projects.
After putting previously unacquainted ranch chinchillas together in
a carrier
for the ride back from the ranch, we put a sheet over them to cover
them. They tunnel and snuggle under the sheet, it's reassuring and
comforting and helps defuse the stress of taking an unfamiliar car
ride with unfamiliar chins.
NOTE: rushing familiarity with a large cage that has different levels
OR introducing a ranchie to too many cagemates at once can result
in LETHAL stress-related
shock. From conducting PHFR
projects
that have saved over one hundred chinchillas from pelting, this is
our advice for dealing with ranch chinchillas when they arrive in
their new domestic environment:
When coming right off the ranch, ranchies
should be paired according to compatible temperaments, with two chins
per single level cage or extra large carrier (photo).
Put a large towel or sheet over them when they're inside so they can
rest on it or snuggle into it (photo).
They need to feel secure and have something to hide in to ease the
stress of adjustment. Also cover their cage or carrier with an opaque
sheet, as described on Routines.
For the first two weeks off the ranch, keep them in pairs in their
single level cage or extra large carrier(photo);
the companionship of their own kind is comforting as well as socializing.
During waking hours let them watch TV, this helps them adjust to their
new domestic environment while reducing stress
and boredom that could cause problems such as group conflicts
or fur-biting.
See "The
TV Attraction," we recommend TV for all chins because it
adds environmental stimulation when they're in their cage during waking
hours. TV's can be purchased inexpensivelyon ebay,
at a yard sale, store sales or at your local thrift store.
By the end of the second week a ranchie may be ready to be introduced
to a larger
cage with an exercise wheel
and out-of-cage
exercise time; the chinparent should use their empathy and intuition
to discern whether the ranchie is acting confident and impatient (and
ready to move on) or if he's frightened and tentative and needs
more time in his present carrier arrangement. Be aware that ranch
chinchillas that have spent their entire lifetime confined to a tiny
cage without exercise don't know how to jump or run, they can't judge
height or depth and when first given some freedom to run they may
instead hop or creep along at a slow, tentative pace. When adjusting
to a large cage with levels, it's important to observe the ranchie
to be sure he's learning to jump and is able to navigate to reach
his food and water.
bonding
with people
In our experience, ranchies are more apt to be frightened of people
than anti-social
toward them, this is due to their inexperience or lack of socialization.
HOWEVER, if a ranchie is acting hysterical and chattering or baring
his teeth, it's adviseable to proceed with caution and start behavioral
rehabilitation. Usually they may just gruff or bark
at first, even shake
when being held, that's why it's important to bear in mind that ranchies
may need several sessions of bonding to reform their impression of
people and learn what to expect from you.
In effect, their relationship with people has been one of neglect,
not abuse. Don't be aloof thinking that ignoring them for awhile will
give them a chance to "settle in," BE PERSISTENT IN FOLLOWING
THE FIRST
CONTACT PROCEDURE WITH RANCHIES! They are especially susceptible
to stress-related shock
and they need you to be persistent and gentle in demonstrating that
they have nothing to fear, that you mean them no harm, that they can
expect only good things from their new situation.
bonding
with other chins
Ranch chinchillas usually have an inexperienced social
disposition when they're right off the ranch, from being caged
solitarily. When chins are still inexperienced they will be naive,
curious, interested and open to other chins but as time goes on and
social experience is gained, territorial
and dominance
drives will surface and a positive or negative social disposition
will also emerge. Placing a socially inexperienced
ranch chin with another socially inexperienced ranch chin doesn't
usually require any introduction at all, only some monitoring to ensure
they're temperamentally compatible, but placing
a socially inexperienced ranch chinchilla with a chinchilla that HAS
had social experience will require the usual process of introducing.

FROM A PET STORE
bonding
with people
We've adopted several pet
store chins over the years and it seems that they're often the
ones that need Behavioral
Rehabilitation, but start with Initiating
Bonding, A Hands-On Approach first because that's all they may
need once they're away from the pet store environment. Considering
what they've been put through, who can blame them if they're stressed
out or anti-social:
temperatures usually well above their comfort range,
bright lights, chaos and noise all day long during their natural sleeping
hours, curious customers stopping by to pick them up and put them
down, up, down, up, down... Pet stores may also keep barking dogs
and a variety of squawking birds, a close parallel to foxes and owls
that are predators of the chinchilla in the wild.
Pet store chins are sometimes confined for weeks or months on end
without exercise
in their small display cages,
which aren't always equipped with safe
bedding, proper chinchilla
food or access to hay.
Be aware that pet stores typically group chinchillas by color and
price range rather than separating them by gender, and pet store employees
VERY frequently mis-sex
them. Chinchillas are sometimes pregnant when they leave the pet store
or become pregnant later on when mistakenly paired with a "same-sex"
cagemate, this happened to us with our
first chin. It's important to be aware of all these issues when getting
a chin from a pet store, but they're no less deserving of a good home.
bonding
with other chins
What the description above adds up to is one aggravated, exhausted
little animal, who will need time to completely relax and form a bond
of trust with his chinparent before being introduced
to another chin, at least a week but longer is adviseable for a chin
from a chaotic
environment. It is VERY important to check a pet store chin's
gender
before introductions, and if it's a female, to wait at least three
months (chinchilla gestation
periods are from 111-128 days) before conducting introductions
to ensure that she's not pregnant from her pet store experience. Females
can be very defensive, antagonistic and territorial
toward other chins when expecting kits. Even if the pet store had
only one chinchilla when you arrived, don't presume that there's no
chance of pregnancy. Pet stores typically get their "stock"
in bunches, so at one point that chin had company.
FROM A RE-HOMING (a pet chinchilla re-homed)
bonding
with people
When adopting a re-homed chinchilla, not one rescued from abuse or
neglect, they should be regarded as those from a pet
breeding background. Re-homed chinchillas
constitute the majority of the chinchillas at a rescue, and
they are not always troubled or difficult as is sometimes assumed,
they're usually relinquished due to issues on their owner's part,
like allergies,
change of lifestyle or interests, etc.
bonding
with other chins
Introductions
are required.

FROM A RESCUE (an abuse or neglect situation)
bonding
with people
Chinchillas rescued from a neglect or abuse situation should receive
immediate reassurance as described in Initiating
Bonding, A Hands-On Approach. Behavioral
rehabilitation may be required
in cases where the chin has learned to act out defensively against
what he perceives to be his human antagonists. It should be kept in
mind that chins who have survived neglect or abuse are reacting to
people as a result of generalizing from their past encounters and
they will simply need time to readjust their perspective; this will
require great patience, empathy and compassion on the part of the
chinparent. Rescue services should know how to behaviorally rehabilitate
chins so that they will someday be ready to be re-homed with the public.
bonding
with other chins
As with chinchillas from a pet store background, chinchillas from
a rescue situation will need time
to completely relax and form a bond of trust with their chinparent
before being introduced
to another chin, at least a week but longer is strongly
advised.

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF BEHAVIOR
Also see: General
Characteristics of Communication, Speech
Recognition and
Animal Sentience Site
This section offers a general starting point for
understanding chinchilla behavior, but it's
vital to bear in mind that chinchilla personalities are absolutely,
*distinctly,* individual, as much so as people's. So take time
to understand and appreciate your chin for the wonderfully unique
individual that he is, no two are exactly alike!
Don't expect a high level of control over your chin's behavior, their
ability to perceive and reason is more sophisticated than most people
anticipate and blind obedience to human will is not a realistic expectation.
They're extremely intelligent,
complex, independent and inquisitive animals, and if you want a positive
relationship with your chin you'll need to dedicate time and patience
to understanding
him and developing a rapport.
People have the perspective of predators while
chinchillas are prey animals, to understand them it's necessary to
realize that and empathize with their perspective.
Chinchillas can tell the difference between human males and females,
and some chins may develop a preference or aversion to either men
or women, generalizing from how they've been treated by a member of
that gender.
Chinchillas don't reach adult size until they're a year old, with
males it can take longer. Until then, you have chinchilla CHILDREN
on your hands, so be patient, protective and doting. They actually
exhibit a lot of qualities that young human children have such as
being eager to please or showing jealousy if they feel they must compete
for attention.
Young
chinchillas are typically hyperactive with a short attention span.
At any age they tend to be independent and have a mind and will of
their own rather than being the docile lap pet
that most people expect. However,
chins do relax some as they become accustomed to you and they will
mellow with age, eventually becoming more receptive to sitting still
for holding and petting. They are sociable and do enjoy the company
of people, but more so when it's on their terms.
They sometimes inherit traits, quirks of attitude or habit,
from their parents.
Chinchillas can spread their whiskers and also the hairs on their
tail when exploring, frightened or nervous. If something should touch
their whiskers or tail hairs unexpectedly while they're splayed, it
gives the chin a sensory advantage that translates into increased
reaction time to flee or retract if he needs to (photo).
They can also hold their ears erect or point an ear in the direction
of something that concerns them, to concentrate their ability to listen.
When chins run, they usually hold their tail down, and this is most
probably a defensive tactic which they'd use in the wild to keep their
tail from injury or from being noticed and seized by predators. Chinchillas
also practice fur-slip,
as detailed in that section.
Chins are very clean animals, they will draw back their whiskers if
they are eating something messy or taking medicine, they lift their
tail to urinate and many set aside one particular place, like a cage
corner, to do that (and sometimes they use more than one corner).
If a chin gets wet (normally they shouldn't, see "The
Wet Bath"), he may do a "doggie shake" to try
and fluff out his wet fur. The "doggie shake" can also apply
to situations where a chin just thinks he's gotten wet, as in the
case of getting kisses, even when they're (and they always should
be) dry kisses.
Chinchillas are social animals, in the wild they travel in groups,
or "herds." They prefer companionship, the company of their
own kind. We advise same-sex
pairs, it's the easiest way to meet their need for social contact
without involving reproduction.
If your chin stares into space now and then this is not abnormal,
but if he's doing it often he's probably BORED! Chins don't do well
left to sit for hours on end with little or nothing interesting or
new to occupy their intelligent minds with. They need and will greatly
benefit from a large cage
to accomodate running and playing, a variety of chew
toys, at least one hideaway
per chin and a cage wheel
to help decrease stress and boredom inside the cage and TV
during waking hours to provide environmental stimulation when they're
not actively engaged in out-of-cage exercise
and interaction.
Chins will often snatch food away from each other, right out of the
other's mouth as they're chewing, in fact. This is either tolerated
because the chin with the tidbit wasn't that interested in it to begin
with, or, if it's something really deletable, they'll take the treat
and run to a corner or other spot where they can eat undisturbed.
There is usually no real strife that arises when food is snatched,
this is because as kits chinchillas learn to sample adult food by
smelling, tasting and often taking what their parents are eating.
Hogging the food dish by blocking another's access to it is another
matter, however, and that can result in urine-spraying
or dominance mounting.
ROUTINES
(exercise,
sleep
and covering cages)
Chinchillas appreciate routines because predicability is comforting
to animals of prey, it doesn't challenge their ability to cope. This
is NOT to say that chins don't appreciate change or something new,
it's only to say that their first reaction may be rejection or reluctance,
they simply need time and opportunity to adjust and only then do their
real preferences become clear, see Environmental
Stress.
In our experience,
the only routines that should be observed with strict regularity are
those of exercise
and sleep. Aside from those,
other routines will develop based on what you've led them to expect.
Chew toys and the dietary staples of
fresh, high quality pellets,
hay,
and distilled or filtered water
should always be available, these
are part of The
Essentials. If you check their supply and replenish it in the
morning before you go to work, they'll come to expect it then, if
you do it in the evening after work, then that's what they'll come
to expect. You may notice, too, that if you're around more in the
daytime during the weekends that they may stay up later into the day
or wake up earlier in the evening.
If you introduce a routine, chinchillas do have an internal sense
of timing and they will anticipate whatever it is they've come to
expect at that certain time. If your routine changes, it may take
them a while to adjust, but they eventually will. Some stability and
predictability in their environment is good for chins, so it's best
to choose a routine and be consistent. For instance, when our chinkids
wake up in the evening, if the TV
is still on the music station instead of a show, they'll bark
to let us know they're up and ready to watch something interesting.
Some people give their chinchillas a treat like an unsweetened mini
Shredded Wheat
biscuit (read the warning that
goes with feeding grains)
after exercise time to "bribe" them
back into their cage, if you do so even once, they will look for it
the next time in hopes that you're establishing a routine!
Routines: Exercise
Out-of-cage
exercise time, even if they have a wheel,
is VERY important to chinchilla health and disposition.
This will be something they look forward to, establishing a routine
for that is also important to maintaining
a bond
with you. See Exercise
and Play and Playtime
Bonding for details.
Routines: Sleep and Covering Cages
Chinchillas
are chiefly nocturnal (but
can be crepuscular, i.e., active at twilight in morning and evening)
and they
need a a hideaway
(tube, hammock,
house- no
plastic- and one hideaway for each cohabitating chin can prevent
cagemate conflicts)
in their cage as well as a cage
location that is relatively quiet and secure (away from prying
pets, excessive traffic) so as to be conducive to daytime sleeping.
Chinchillas are all somewhat territorial
and guarded by virtue of their being an animal of prey, it's EXTREMELY
important to their health both mentally and physically that they feel
safe, especially when they need to sleep.

There are many sleeping positions (photo)
and some appear quite bizarre, as with chins who sleep with their
head and upper torso hanging down out of their hammock, almost upside
down. Typical sleeping positions include sleeping in a "chin
pile" (photo)
with other cagemates, lying on their side, lying on their back while
wedged under something (shelf, wheel) or using something (ledge,
chew toy, etc.) as a pillow. If you are concerned about your chinchilla's
state of being while he's asleep, take note of his sides to see that
he's still breathing regularly.
Since 1997 we've kept sheets around our
chinfamily's cages
(on three sides with front open, as pictured), and due to the
positive effects that we (and others, especially those who handle
difficult behavioral cases in rescue) have experienced,
we advise keeping a sheet (no strings, fringe or loose weave)
wrapped around the individual chinchilla cages.
The sheet will help contain mess and dust, it makes a barrier between
cages where knowledge of the opposite
sex or other chinchillas right next door (proximity is the
issue, seeing other chins across the room is not a problem but seeing
them right next door often is) can instigate dominance
mounting, territorial
anxiety (and excessively marking territory with urine) and
cagemate conflicts.
Perhaps most importantly, covering the cage provides some privacy
and seclusion which reassures the chin (especially high-strung
chins) that the area within their domain is protected and secure,
especially for daytime sleeping. Throughout our years of rescue work
we've taken in chins that were high-strung, severely stressed and
fur-bitten that made rapid improvement due in part to simply having
their cage covered. When a small animal of prey feels trapped, overly-exposed
and vulnerable, it can be a stress
factor.
Chinchillas are all somewhat territorial by
nature, and covering cages can PREVENT cagemate conflicts,
especially in situations where a group is not used to having other
chinchillas right next door and is suddenly confronted with that situation,
constituting a territorial violation.
If the cages AREN'T covered and the view of other chins right next
door has already provoked fighting
within a group, then the problem has become INTERNAL to the group
(a problem between cagemates) rather than external (a problem
with other chins violating their territory), and at that point
covering the cage probably will not "fix" the problem the
way it could have prevented it. Also be aware that if playtime
territorial issues, such as having a playroom separate from the cage
room, are not observed, then territorial problems (fighting, excessive
territorial marking) may continue in spite of covering cages.
If a single chin is "securing" his
territory by marking it with urine continuously and excessively,
peeing on wooden shelves, wheels, houses and so forth (it's
normal for chins to urinate in their cage corners and to urinate on
cage accessories once in awhile, some territorial marking is also
normal), especially around the periphery, then covering the cage
can curb that behavior because it will secure the chin's territory
for him so that he doesn't "need" to. This solution doesn't
always work instantly though, because, as is typical with chins, they
often need time to adjust to the change. A chin that is very territorialistic
may even increase his territorial marking for awhile before realizing
and accepting that his territory is secure. Chins will also mark territory
excessively if there is an environmental stress
factor (chaotic environment, prying household pets) at
work that needs to be resolved.
We have had both wire and wooden shelving for years, we also keep
metal tubes (pointy edges sanded down), hammocks, wooden houses
and both Saucer and traditional style wheels in our chinkids' cages
and we've never had a problem with excessive territorial marking.
Sometimes when a cage accessory is new they may mark it a few times,
and but otherwise they almost never urinate on their cage accessories.
And this isn't because our chinkids are charm school graduates, either,
our chinfamily is composed of mostly rescues and we
make a point of taking in and working with the worst behavioral cases,
many of which are very territorialistic. We attribute the lack of
excessive territorial marking to the measures we take to ensure our
chins feel secure and protected (covering cages) and the distractions
(chew
toys, wheel,
TV)
we provide to help prevent
environmental stresses, boredom in particular.
PLEASE NOTE: If the sheet is pulled taut around the cage, which can
be done by tucking it under the cage, it will be more difficult to
pull in. But if your chin's cage doesn't have the safe (smaller)
mesh
width, then he will most likely get a curiosity itch and will
try to pull the sheet into his cage, and probably with great success
because a larger, unsafe mesh width (which is conducive to amputations)
makes it easier for chins to pull things into the cage that they shouldn't.
Pulling the sheet in is more of an inconvenience for the chinparent
who has to readjust it than a problem for the chin as long as the
sheet has no strings, fringe or loose weave that could be pulled loose
and accidentally ingested, causing a fatal intestinal blockage. A
regular bedsheet or cloth of tight weave may eventually get worn or
even get holes from occassional gnawing, but that's not a potential
health hazard for the chin.
If your chin displays an avid interest in chewing his sheet, change
the brand or scent of your detergent or fabric softener, it can sometimes
cause the sheet to smell appetizing. Chins
don't normally make a habit of chewing on cage sheets, but a chin
who is stressed
or bored, ESPECIALLY bored, can resort to such fidgeting behaviors.
As noted previously on this page, a large cage
to accomodate running and playing, a variety of chew
toys, at least one hideaway
per chin and a cage wheel
will help decrease stress and boredom inside the cage while TV
during waking hours will provide environmental stimulation when the
chin isn't actively engaged in out-of-cage exercise
and interaction.
New, king or queen-sized flat sheets can be purchased cheaply on ebay,
at store sales, etc., and of course always wash linen before putting
it to use. We also play soothing music softly in the background during
sleeping
hours.
INITIATING BONDING, A HANDS-ON APPROACH
(first
contact procedure)

Also see: Environmental
Stress
The commonly advised (read
why a lot of common advice is problematic) "hands-off"
or, "let the chin come to you" approach of initiating a
relationship with a chinchilla can work fine with chins who've come
from a background of positive socialization with people. Unfortunately,
many chins have not, and we often hear from very frustrated chinparents
who have been applying the "hands-off"
advice with a chinchilla from a background of negative socialization
due to previous environment
or treatment. "Just sit with you arm resting in the cage
and wait for him to come to you" or "Just ignore your new
chin and let him settle in for the first few days, or week" might
sound reasonable to us because we're not a small, powerless animal
of prey trapped behind bars, dreading and expecting the worst, feeling
alone, terrified, bewildered.
When a chin is fearful of interaction and handling, if he shrieks
or acts intimidated and terrified, then he NEEDS TO BE HELD
AND GENTLY REASSURED, see: First
Contact Procedure and Catching
and Handling Your Chinchilla. You wouldn't withdraw from or turn
your back on a crying, frightened child; a terrified chinchilla is
no different in this way. Some people interpret and react to animal
behavior on a very one-dimensional level: "The chin acts afraid
and alarmed when I approach, this must mean that I'm not wanted and
should just go away." Such a response will only confirm and intensify
the chin's fear and apprehension, it will make things WORSE. A scared
chinchilla can't help acting scared, and that behavior is a cry for
help, it is absolutely NOT a deliberate effort to drive off his only
hope of comfort and reassurance.
Fear and apprehension won't magically resolve
themselves, something needs to take place for those feelings to subside,
for confidence and trust to grow in their place. Only the chinparent
has the ability to make this happen, because the chinparent is responsible
for and in control of everything that affects
the chin: his environment, how he is provided for and treated. For
a chin to overcome his fear and learn to interact and socialize in
a positive, healthy way, the chinparent must faithfully provide
all the essentials so that the chin realizes that he can trust his
caretaker to meet his needs, and
then the chinparent must be assertive and persistent (it can take
time and patience!) in reassuring the chin when he is afraid,
helping him to feel
confident that he is loved and valued.
We advise a "hands-on" approach (as detailed
in First
Contact Procedure) because in our experience
working with behavioral rehabilitation cases and chinchillas from
all adoption
backgrounds, this provides a positive foundation for building a relationship
with a chin regardless of his former environment or treatment, his
experience with people. We also advise covering cages (as described
on Routines)
because it has many benefits, including providing a sense of protection
and security.
To understand why a behavioral approach succeeds or fails, it's necessary
to understand the perspective of the one on the receiving end. Like
all animals, the behaviors that chinchillas exhibit are chiefly instinctual,
the result of nature's programming. Animals are neither morally complex
nor egotistically driven, they are motivated by simple instinct whose
goal it is to survive, thrive and reproduce (NOTE: chinchillas
do not "need" to be bred and we promote same-sex
pairing in captivity due to issues
with overpopulation and careless breeding. This reference relates
to their instincts in nature).
On one level of existence, chinchillas are prey animals, humans are
predators. Prey animals take their cue (how to act, what to expect,
how to successfully "survive, thrive and reproduce")
from their environment, and especially from the dominant species in
their environment (chinparent). Animals of prey use their intelligence
and cunning in a more defensive or reactionary way in their environment
(to avoid becoming a meal, but also to thrive) while predators
take a more assertive role: initiating action, setting the pace, establishing
expectations.
This means that chinchillas anticipate that
the more dominant species in their environment will make the first
move, will confidently initiate the relationship, will welcome and
reassure them and show them what to expect. At the same time
the chin is expecting this, a chinparent using the "hands-off"
approach is expecting the chin to take charge, to assert himself.
What happens when the chin is ignored so he can "settle in,"
or when the new chinparent acts tentative or afraid to pick him up,
catch or handle
him?
To an animal of prey, such wary, withholding behavior on the part
of the dominant species creates an atmosphere of fear, tension and
uncertainty which at its very worst can cause the chin to succumb
to stress-related shock.
Tentative behavior, like waving one's hand around the chin in a hesitating
gesture prior to picking
him up, can be perceived as stalking, teasing or adversarial and
this can cause the chin to respond with anti-social
(defensive) behavior. They really do
expect that as the dominant and more powerful species, their chinparent
should know what to do and when they get mixed messages, it makes
matters worse.
Confusion resulting
from the reverse role-playing of the hands-off approach can wreak
havoc on a chinparent's relationship with their new chin. By using
a hands-on approach (as detailed
in First
Contact Procedure), the initiative
for bonding is put where the chin instinctively expects it to be,
on the chinparent. And when the chinparent assumes the role of initiating
bonding
and setting positive expectations, then the chin is given a definite
framework within which to interact, which helps to alleviate his
fears (fear of the unknown, of neglect, abandonment or mistreatment)
and reassure him that he can put faith and trust in his chinparent
and expect the best from his new situation.

First Contact Procedure
If you have a chin that came with more serious
anti-social
behaviors (biting, urine-spraying), skip First Contact Procedure
and begin behavioral
rehabilitation immediately. Initiating
Bonding, A Hands-On Approach should be read prior to this section.
It's important to understand that "a hands-on approach"
is NOT the same as forcing your attention on your new pet in obnoxious
or overbearing ways. Overpowering him with your attentions can be
just as frightening as withholding attention altogether, there is
an appropriate middle ground and THAT is what we're advocating here
by a hands-on approach: giving attention that is gentle, soothing,
calming, caring. When a chin is new to an environment, he needs to
be welcomed by the dominant species in that environment (you, the
chinparent) with positive reassurance
that this is friendly territory where he will be valued and respected
and his needs met with cheerful reliability so that he can safely
entrust his welfare and happiness to your loving care.
We know of cases where chins that did not receive such immediate reassurance
developed anxiety, panic and then died from stress-related shock,
in fact, this article was originally written after hearing from several
distraught chinparents that had been abstaining from interacting with,
picking up or holding their chinchilla because they were led to believe
the chin should be ignored and allowed to "settle in" or
to make the first move toward bonding. But after waiting for days,
weeks and sometimes months, if their chin hadn't succumbed to stress
and died, then it had shied away from them, became a fearful bundle
of nerves, began fur-biting
or even developed anti-social
(biting, urine-spraying) habits. It is especially important
for ranch
chinchillas to be reassured, they can succumb to stress-related
shock
otherwise.
A hands-on approach is simple. After you get your new chin home and
give him about an hour to look around his new cage
and get acquainted with his surroundings, then gently pick him up
(if he goes berserk, see Catching
and Handling Your Chinchilla) and find a quiet
place to sit where you can watch TV or listen to music and hold your
chinchilla for a little while. With a loving touch and genuine concern
for his comfort and happiness, speak to him in a soothing tone, tell
him he's a good boy, be positive, gentle and reassuring. Kiss (dry
kiss!) his belly, his paws, his cheek, (whatever he seems to
appreciate and be receptive to, try to find your positive interaction
niche) let him snuggle into or under your shirt, under a lap blanket
or in the crook of your arm and then find how he likes to be petted.
Chins don't like to be petted in strokes, see this description of
chin
scratches and use that instead, all the while speaking soothingly
to him. Be
aware that some chinchillas react to human breath as if they're being
bombarded by another animal's natural defenses. That is, they think
that humans use breath the same way that another chin sprays urine,
the way a porcupine uses its quills or a squid shoots ink; human breath
can be overwhelming, repulsive and even threatening, especially if
a chin is not accustomed to interaction with people. It can take a
little time for some chins to realize that our breath is not meant
offensively.
Take out your new chin and bond with him like this once daily, during
his evening waking hours, for about five or ten minutes at a time
or more frequently if he appears receptive. This can develop into
out-of-cage
exercise and playtime
bonding when the chin is ready to explore his play area, and once
he's confident (and
depending on his situation it may take months and a lot of time and
patience for him to get confident) with you
and his situation, then it's alright to let him take the initiative
and come to you.
To invite him to take the initiative, put both your hands out, palms
up, in front of the cage and wait for him to walk out onto your hands,
or hold the cage door open and let him come out to you. Not all chins
will be receptive to this, what is important is that you extended
the invitation, not whether or not he took it, and don't just try
this once and give up, not every chin may get the idea the first time.
Also, don't be surprised if the chin needs to be caught
and taken to the playroom
for exercise, this is typical and a chin's reluctance
to be picked
up should NOT be misconstrued as disinterest in out-of-cage playtime!
Read more about Catching
and Handling Your Chinchilla.
The intent of a hands-on approach is to reassure your chin, to put
him at ease and to encourage confidence and reciprocal trust and bonding.
When you and your chinchilla find your communication groove, you'll
know it and then this initial bonding approach will no longer be necessary.
While becoming acquainted with your chin, be sure that all his essential
needs are being met, including his need for a setup
that provides some quiet and solitude (away from prying pets, excessive
traffic) during daytime sleeping hours, this is essential to his
health and a successful adjustment. We also highly recommend TV
for chins during their nocturnal waking hours, it is extremely helpful
in getting them to desensitize somewhat, to adjust to the hustle and
bustle of the household all from the safety and comfort of their cage.
It may not be smooth sailing at first, but your chinchilla needs you
to reach out with affection and understanding and eventually he will
come around, so be gentle but persistent in comforting and reassuring
him. Don't let a "gruffer" or a "barker" dissuade you from handling
him, those are the ones most in need of positive attention and they're
usually not biters,
they're usually the ones that are "all bark and no bite."
A good guideline is, if the chin is frightened
(including those chins that go berserk at the prospect of being
picked up, caught or held), then hold, snuggle and reassure him,
but when he's got gusto and confidence, let him go and he'll come
back to you.
If you have taken in a chin that needs some medical care, like tending
to a superficial wound
our callouses
and the chin is resistant to treatment, don't withhold care at this
point for fear of stressing him out. In fact, as we advised chinparents
in one case where a couple chins needed treatment for Bumblefoot:
"It's your stand-offishness and temerity that are actually making
it look like you ARE something to be feared and avoided. You need
to catch and hold them and talk softly to them and persist with moisturizing
their feet until the callouses/cuts heal. Do it for their own good
and it's not excessive or stressful once they learn that you are in
charge AND that they have nothing to fear from that. No, you won't
be giving them flashbacks to what they were put through before, by
letting them misbehave you're actually reinforcing their insecurity
because you're not in control. When they test their boundaries and
there seem to be none, they keep testing, they need boundaries to
feel secure, much like very young children."
A new chin needs at least a week to get acquainted
with you before being introduced
to another chin. They need to be firmly grounded in a bond
of trust and understanding with you, to know that you won't let harm
come to them, to know that you have their best interests at heart.
It's fundamental to a chin's confidence and will to live that he knows
that, also, introductions should never be rushed or forced to satisfy
the chinparent's impatience, this can and has resulted in chinchilla
injuries and deaths.
RELATING TO YOUR CHINCHILLA
(chin
scratches or grooming, playtime
bonding, catching
and handling)
Also see: General Characteristics of Behavior
and Communication
and Initiating
Bonding, A Hands-On Approach

Chin Scratches or Grooming
Chins don't like to be petted in strokes the way we would
a dog or a cat. Instead, rub the tummy, under the chin, along the
jawline, behind the ears or on the forehead in a circular, massaging
motion (see video examples: Leescratches1.flv,
Leescratches2.flv)
that is sometimes referred to as "chin scratches." Approach
your chin palms-up to give scratches, this way he'll know he isn't
getting picked up, and use key words first to communicate intent,
for example, we say, "scratch-scratch, scratch-scratch"
a few times and they come to their cage door or let us approach during
playtime to get their scratches. If you want to hold your chin on
your lap for a little while before letting him out to
run or before putting him back in his cage, by giving chin scratches
you'll entice him to pause for a few moments of bliss.
It is typical for chins to gruff in response to chin scratches. They
guide each other during grooming sessions as well, making little chirping
or gruffing sounds to guide their groomer's technique. A little gruff
means "not quite right, you're almost there," the irritated
gruff means you're quite off and short barks when you initially approach
means they're just not in the mood. It takes time and requires empathy
and awareness to discern what your chin's sounds mean, exactly what
he's trying to tell you, and individuals do vary somewhat in their
communication sounds. Watch both your chin's body language and sound
variation while you're grooming him and this will help guide you;
once your chin is being happily scratched he'll be quiet and completely
absorbed in your perfected technique.
Be aware that chins do nibble
and this should not be reacted to adversely, they nibble each other
while grooming and they may also groom their chinparent (knuckes,
fingers, callouses, beard stubble, eyebrows, etc.) in response
to chin scratches or just to express their affection and regard. A
chin who is really enjoying his tummy rub will pull your hand in closer
to show how much he likes it, and then nibble your knuckles gently,
grooming you in appreciative reciprocation. If the chin becomes a
bit too rough with his nibbling, then a simple admonishment like,
"gentle, honey, gentle" and pulling your hand back a little
will deter him, communicating the do's and don'ts of how you like
to be groomed without violating your moment of bonding.

Playtime Bonding
The best time to bond with your chinchilla is during out-of-cage exercise
time, or playtime. Chin scratches while in the cage (see article)
and some cuddling when handling
are great too, but chins are free spirits that love to run and play,
and being there to share in their joy is the ultimate chinparenthood
experience.
We use key words to let our chins know when it's playtime ("playtime,"
repeated several times while getting them out of their cage and taking
them to the playroom) and when playtime is over, to let them
know that it's time to be caught
and returned to their cage ("getcha," repeated several
time while we catch and return them to their cage). When chins
know what to expect it allows them to relax and enjoy themselves the
rest of the time, they can act natural without being wary of being
caught.
Even though the playroom should be sufficiently chin-proofed,
if your chin happens to get into something he shouldn't, snap your
fingers or clap your hands once or twice and say "no" in
a firm, not loud or frightening, manner. Use this tactic sparingly
or its effect will diminish.
When your chin is running about, let him lead and take the initiative
in coming to you, his curiosity will eventually lead him to do so
unless he's new and hasn't been through First
Contact Procedure. By allowing him to approach you during playtime,
on his terms, you will be establishing a balance of respect in the
relationship. Allow him to come up and investigate, jump off of, climb
on you, etc., and don't make a grab for him or try to handle
him, just let him have his fun. Of course it's fine to reach out to
him palms up (they know we can't catch them that way and thus it's
a gesture of friendliness rather than dominance) to do the affectionate
things like give him a rub on the tummy or chin
scratches under the chin, behind the ears or on the forehead.
When your chin realizes that the playroom is HIS domain where interaction
is on HIS terms, it will instill a sense of confidence and security
in him and reinforce his trust in you.
Chinchillas are very perceptive,
naturally curious and affectionate, they groom each other by gently
nibbling and when they're comfortable with you they'll nibble at your
hand, perch on your head, take flying leaps from your shoulder and
run across any book or handheld device you may be engrossed in. Several
of our chins have expressed an interest in our laptop, watching us
use the graphics program and putting their paw on the keyboard periodically
to ensure their input counts. Chins are amazing to watch at play,
they sometimes ricochet off things to gain height while they race
about, like springing off the wall to jump as high as the top of the
door frame. They love stairs, a ladder in the playroom works well
too, it gives them an advantageous lookout point.
The more active, wild and crazy a chin is,
the more happy he is. The ultimate expressions of chinchilla
joy and happiness include: "wall surfing" (bouncing off
walls) and the mid-air jump and twitch, sometimes called "popcorning"
but better referred to as a "happy dance."

Catching and Handling Your Chinchilla
Additional Articles: Crystal
Chinchillas- see Getting Started, then Handling; Granite
City Chinchilla's article
If your chin is afraid of handling and interaction,
see: Initiating
Bonding, A Hands-On Approach
It's NORMAL for a chinchilla to not want to be caught or picked up,
this should not be considered cause for dismay, it also does not mean
that the chin doesn't like their chinparent. A chin's reluctance,
even aversion, to being caught or picked up derives from their instinct
as an animal of prey, it's in their nature to want to avoid "capture."
Most chinchillas (especially
younger ones, chins get more sedentary as they age) don't like
to be held for long, either, they'd rather be on the move, but even
those that will endure some holding and cuddling still usually don't
enjoy being caught or picked up.
Some resistance to being caught or picked up should NOT be misread
as a sign that the chin wants to be left alone and ignored, this will
only worsen relations, see Initiating
Bonding, A Hands-On Approach.
Chins
NEED out-of-cage exercise and playtime
bonding,
the chinparent should EXPECT to have to catch their chin when he's
in his cage in order to get him out, and once he's out, to catch him
to return him to his cage- this is NORMAL. Chins
that come bouncing up to their cage door on cue, who will
stand perfectly still in order to be caught, or who will
come and go on command or when called are just NOT the norm.
NOTE: Do NOT use MCBA's care page advice,
"If your animal gets loose and you are having trouble catching
it, a fish net or live trap works well." Doing this will damage
the trust in your relationship and could make your chin anti-social
as a defense reaction to this perceived aggression. The same thing
applies to using a butterfly net, even if used gently, nets can easily
cause injury because chins dart about quickly and their thin leg bones
are stretched out during movement. Also, in the wild chinchillas are
preyed upon by owls, and even at this point of domestication it is
terrifying and stressful to have something repeatedly trying to pounce
on them from overhead.
If your chinchilla is in his cage as opposed to running around the
playroom, then catching and picking him up will be relatively easy.
Sometimes a well-socialized chin will be willing to come out on his
own if you hold your hands together in front of the cage door, palms
up (they know we can't catch them that way and thus it's a gesture
of friendliness rather than dominance) or if you offer him your
shoulder to perch on, but don't be surprised if even a well-socialized
chin doesn't always respond to that. Again, this is not a sign that
the chin has chosen to forego out-of-cage
exercise and playtime
bonding forever,
just pick him up and take him to the playroom and watch his attiude
change from ornery reluctance to joyful enthusiasm.
If your chin sprays
urine or attempts to bite,
see Initiating
Bonding, A Hands-On Approach and Behavioral
Rehabilitation. If for some reason your chin is exhibiting anti-social
behavior but needs to be picked up urgently, say if he's hurt and
requires immediate veterinary
attention, just put on gloves (for biters) and proceed with
the instructions detailed below.
It is important for the chinparent to realize
that when catching, picking up and handling their chinchilla, they
must move with an assertive, definite and confident approach. Apprehensive
or reluctant behavior on the part of the chinparent WILL be perceived
by the chin, they are very perceptive and when fear and uncertainty
is conveyed to them by the dominant
species (chinparent) in their environment, they become
uneasy and fearful. Tentative behavior, such as waving one's hand
around the chin in a hesitating gesture prior to picking him up, can
be perceived as teasing or adversarial and this can cause the chin
to respond with anti-social
(defensive) behavior.
Be aware that if your chinchilla is nervous (or especially if made
nervous by the chinparent's lack of confident approach), frightened
or caught by surprise, he may release fur where he's touched. The
phenomenon of "fur-slipping"
is described in detail in the hyperlinked article but suffice to say
here that this is a voluntary defense reaction on the chinchilla's
part, it doesn't hurt the chin and his fur will regrow.
Before picking up your chinchilla, say some comforting words in a
low, soothing tone while you reach for and take hold of the BASE of
his tail, the part where it meets the body, with one hand.
Do not grab and hold onto the tail's END, it CAN break off! (photo)
This is not a "defense mechanism," it WON'T grow back (although
fur will regrow
on the stump), it will bleed, it IS painful and the reason it
snaps off is simply because that thin, fragile strip of fur and flesh
cannot sustain the tension caused by the chin throwing his whole body
weight in the opposite direction of your grip. If the chin starts
yanking and struggling before you have a SOLID grip on the BASE of
the tail, simply let him go and try again.

When you have the base of the tail gripped securely in one hand, simultaneously
slide your other hand under your chin's body for support and gently
draw him toward you. Cradle him against your chest and either keep
his feet on your chest or hold him to your chest and support his feet
with your hands, in any case the feet should ALWAYS be resting on
something solid, never dangling.
"Scooping up" a chin by placing one hand under his middle
and the other hand under his posterior for support before lifting
him to your chest is also acceptable but should be used only when
the chin is stationary and unlikely to take off, such as when lifting
the chin out of a carrier.
When a chin pauses but still has the opportunity to run, it's too
easy for the chinparent to accidentally tighten their grip around
the chin's middle if he starts moving during the "scooping up,"
and this can result in bruised or broken ribs.
THIS IS IMPORTANT: Once your chin is being held, it's give
positive reinforcement that will help him make a positive association
with being picked up and held. This can be done by holding
him for a moment or two before putting him back in his cage, and while
he's being held talk to him in kind, reassuring tones, give him little
dry kisses on his cheek or see if he's in the mood for "chin
scratches," as described in this article.
If
the chin is acting frantic it will help calm him if you gently cover
his eyes with your hand or let him burrow under your arm (photo)
so that he can feel that he's tucked somewhere safe. Comfort and reassure
the chin but do NOT release him until he is calm, otherwise he will
learn that going berserk is his ticket to not being handled and he
will use that tactic to get his way in future and this will ultimately
NOT be to his advantage because chins NEED out-of-cage exercise
and interaction.
Frightened, frantic chins will EVENTUALLY stop
being that way (it can may take awhile, even months) if they
are CONSISTENTLY given positive reinforcement when picked up, if they
are consistently comforted and reassured until they are calm.
Be aware that chinchillas with a particularly thick, heavy coat usually
cannot take being held for very long because it makes them too hot,
especially during warm weather. Try holding your super-furry guy or
gal when the room temperature
is well below 70F.
If
your chinchilla has been out playing and needs to be returned to his
cage, he will most likely need to be chased to be caught and returned.
Some people have luck calling
their chin by name, giving a command or bribing them back to their
cage with a treat,
however, we advise caution with the latter because sugary treats,
such as raisins, given around
playtime can cause bloodsugar-related seizures.
It's better to offer a healthier
treat, like an unsweetened Wheat 'N Bran mini Shredded
Wheat biscuit (read the warning that goes with feeding grains).
In our experience, though, commands and bribes aren't always reliable,
especially if for some reason you need the chin to go back to his
cage right away and he was looking forward to enjoying his
freedom indefinitely.
As a result of many years of experience
working with chinchillas from all backgrounds,
including rescue and ranch chins that have needed socializing (because
they lack experience with people) or behavioral rehabiliation
(because they have had negative experiences with people), and
from having our fair share of chasing these chins in order to catch
them,
we have learned for certain that it's not a question of whether or
not a chin should be chased, but rather it's a matter of HOW the chasing
is done. There is a right way that is non-traumatizing and a wrong
way that is.
Firstly, there must be an established rapport of affection, trust
and mutual respect between you and your chinchilla, see Initiating
Bonding, A Hands-On Approach. All our chins come forward to give
kisses through the cage mesh or when we just lean our head into their
cage, that's one sign that we've established positive communication.
Then, when it's time for the chin to go back to his cage, use cunning,
not speed, to catch him. Outsmart him by heading him off or anticipating
his move so that he can be caught quickly and efficiently. DON'T:
run (this is DANGEROUS, you may not be able to stop in time
to avoid an accident),
shout, make loud exclamations, set up road blocks, move furniture
(he'll run into them head-first), or use dramatic,
startling gestures. Approach with deliberate, calculated, swift action.
At all times, you are the one in charge of the
situation and it must remain absolutely safe and under your control.
Stop and rest immediately if the chin begins to appear stressed, or
if he can't be caught after about five minutes, so that you both can
catch your breath and recoup.
And finally, no matter how bratty or uncooperative a chin acts when
you're trying to catch him, NEVER reprimand or display frustration
or anger once he's been picked up, that will only result in the chin
making a negative association with being caught, a negative association
he may extend to the chinparent in general.
Instead, follow the positive reinforcement advice given previously
in this article and soon
your chin will learn what to expect from you when being
picked up, and it won't be a stressful ordeal because he knows that
being caught has a happy ending. |
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