| If you're having a serious behavioral problem with your chin, we're always happy to help with advice or referrals. Chinchillas are complex and each is truly unique, there aren't as many behavioral "absolutes" as there are behavioral patterns or guidelines, and it is some of these that we impart based on our years of working with hundreds of chins via our chinfamily that's numbered at over thirty since 2002, rescue work since 2000 and saving ranchies since 2004. We encourage people to first be knowledgeable, and then empathetic and intuitive with their chins, and above all they should be patient and resolved never to compromise their chin's health, happiness or safety. Chinparents know their chins best and ultimately any decision they make regarding their chins is entirely their prerogative AND responsibility. It is important to keep a new chin out of sight/ contact (across the room is ok) of your other chin/s not only for quarantine reasons, but because until chins are introduced it violates their natural territorial instinct and creates an environmental stress factor that can ruin the potential for bonding with either you or other chins.  ADOPTION SOURCE, OR BACKGROUND, AND BEHAVIORAL EXPECTATIONS (pet breeder, ranch, pet store, re-homing, rescue) Some general points, from our and other's observation and experience, about what to expect when adopting... FROM A PET OR "HOBBY" BREEDER  bonding
with peoplePet breeders, especially those with a small breeding herd of about a dozen chins or fewer, sometimes refer to themselves as a "hobby breeder." Chinchillas from this background often take easily to bonding with people because pet breeders tend to spend time handling and socializing their kits. bonding
with other chinsIntroductions are required, but these chins often have a positive social disposition. FROM A RANCH (In the U.S., ranches sell primarily for pets or breeding stock) Chinchillas that come from a ranch have been kept in a confined space with no human interaction or socialization with other chins. We take sheets (no strings, fringe or loose weave) along when we do Pet Homes For Ranchies (PHFR) projects. After putting previously unacquainted ranch chinchillas together in a carrier for the ride back from the ranch, we put a sheet over them to cover them. They tunnel and snuggle under the sheet, it's reassuring and comforting and helps defuse the stress of taking an unfamiliar car ride with unfamiliar chins. NOTE: rushing familiarity with a large cage that has different levels OR introducing a ranchie to too many cagemates at once can result in LETHAL stress-related shock. From conducting PHFR projects that have saved over one hundred chinchillas from pelting, this is our advice for dealing with ranch chinchillas when they arrive in their new domestic environment: When coming right off the ranch, ranchies should be paired according to compatible temperaments, with two chins per single level cage or extra large carrier (photo). Put a large towel or sheet over them when they're inside so they can rest on it or snuggle into it (photo). They need to feel secure and have something to hide in to ease the stress of adjustment. Also cover their cage or carrier with an opaque sheet, as described on Routines. For the first two weeks off the ranch, keep them in pairs in their single level cage or extra large carrier(photo); the companionship of their own kind is comforting as well as socializing. During waking hours let them watch TV, this helps them adjust to their new domestic environment while reducing stress and boredom that could cause problems such as group conflicts or fur-biting. See "The TV Attraction," we recommend TV for all chins because it adds environmental stimulation when they're in their cage during waking hours. TV's can be purchased inexpensivelyon ebay, at a yard sale, store sales or at your local thrift store. By the end of the second week a ranchie may be ready to be introduced to a larger cage with an exercise wheel and out-of-cage exercise time; the chinparent should use their empathy and intuition to discern whether the ranchie is acting confident and impatient (and ready to move on) or if he's frightened and tentative and needs more time in his present carrier arrangement. Be aware that ranch chinchillas that have spent their entire lifetime confined to a tiny cage without exercise don't know how to jump or run, they can't judge height or depth and when first given some freedom to run they may instead hop or creep along at a slow, tentative pace. When adjusting to a large cage with levels, it's important to observe the ranchie to be sure he's learning to jump and is able to navigate to reach his food and water.
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with peopleIn our experience, ranchies are more apt to be frightened of people than anti-social toward them, this is due to their inexperience or lack of socialization. HOWEVER, if a ranchie is acting hysterical and chattering or baring his teeth, it's adviseable to proceed with caution and start behavioral rehabilitation. Usually they may just gruff or bark at first, even shake when being held, that's why it's important to bear in mind that ranchies may need several sessions of bonding to reform their impression of people and learn what to expect from you. In effect, their relationship with people has been one of neglect, not abuse. Don't be aloof thinking that ignoring them for awhile will give them a chance to "settle in," BE PERSISTENT IN FOLLOWING THE FIRST CONTACT PROCEDURE WITH RANCHIES! They are especially susceptible to stress-related shock and they need you to be persistent and gentle in demonstrating that they have nothing to fear, that you mean them no harm, that they can expect only good things from their new situation. bonding
with other chinsRanch chinchillas usually have an inexperienced social disposition when they're right off the ranch, from being caged solitarily. When chins are still inexperienced they will be naive, curious, interested and open to other chins but as time goes on and social experience is gained, territorial and dominance drives will surface and a positive or negative social disposition will also emerge. Placing a socially inexperienced ranch chin with another socially inexperienced ranch chin doesn't usually require any introduction at all, only some monitoring to ensure they're temperamentally compatible, but placing a socially inexperienced ranch chinchilla with a chinchilla that HAS had social experience will require the usual process of introducing. FROM A PET STORE bonding
with peopleWe've adopted several pet store chins over the years and it seems that they're often the ones that need Behavioral Rehabilitation, but start with Initiating Bonding, A Hands-On Approach first because that's all they may need once they're away from the pet store environment. Considering what they've been put through, who can blame them if they're stressed out or anti-social: temperatures usually well above their comfort range, bright lights, chaos and noise all day long during their natural sleeping hours, curious customers stopping by to pick them up and put them down, up, down, up, down... Pet stores may also keep barking dogs and a variety of squawking birds, a close parallel to foxes and owls that are predators of the chinchilla in the wild. Pet store chins are sometimes confined for weeks or months on end without exercise in their small display cages, which aren't always equipped with safe bedding, proper chinchilla food or access to hay. Be aware that pet stores typically group chinchillas by color and price range rather than separating them by gender, and pet store employees VERY frequently mis-sex them. Chinchillas are sometimes pregnant when they leave the pet store or become pregnant later on when mistakenly paired with a "same-sex" cagemate, this happened to us with our first chin. It's important to be aware of all these issues when getting a chin from a pet store, but they're no less deserving of a good home. bonding
with other chinsWhat the description above adds up to is one aggravated, exhausted little animal, who will need time to completely relax and form a bond of trust with his chinparent before being introduced to another chin, at least a week but longer is adviseable for a chin from a chaotic environment. It is VERY important to check a pet store chin's gender before introductions, and if it's a female, to wait at least three months (chinchilla gestation periods are from 111-128 days) before conducting introductions to ensure that she's not pregnant from her pet store experience. Females can be very defensive, antagonistic and territorial toward other chins when expecting kits. Even if the pet store had only one chinchilla when you arrived, don't presume that there's no chance of pregnancy. Pet stores typically get their "stock" in bunches, so at one point that chin had company. FROM A RE-HOMING (a pet chinchilla re-homed) bonding
with peopleWhen adopting a re-homed chinchilla, not one rescued from abuse or neglect, they should be regarded as those from a pet breeding background. Re-homed chinchillas constitute the majority of the chinchillas at a rescue, and they are not always troubled or difficult as is sometimes assumed, they're usually relinquished due to issues on their owner's part, like allergies, change of lifestyle or interests, etc. bonding
with other chinsIntroductions are required. FROM A RESCUE (an abuse or neglect situation) bonding
with peopleChinchillas rescued from a neglect or abuse situation should receive immediate reassurance as described in Initiating Bonding, A Hands-On Approach. Behavioral rehabilitation may be required in cases where the chin has learned to act out defensively against what he perceives to be his human antagonists. It should be kept in mind that chins who have survived neglect or abuse are reacting to people as a result of generalizing from their past encounters and they will simply need time to readjust their perspective; this will require great patience, empathy and compassion on the part of the chinparent. Rescue services should know how to behaviorally rehabilitate chins so that they will someday be ready to be re-homed with the public. bonding
with other chinsAs with chinchillas from a pet store background, chinchillas from a rescue situation will need time to completely relax and form a bond of trust with their chinparent before being introduced to another chin, at least a week but longer is strongly advised. GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF BEHAVIOR Also see: General Characteristics of Communication, Speech Recognition and Animal Sentience Site This section offers a general starting point for understanding chinchilla behavior, but it's vital to bear in mind that chinchilla personalities are absolutely, *distinctly,* individual, as much so as people's. So take time to understand and appreciate your chin for the wonderfully unique individual that he is, no two are exactly alike! Don't expect a high level of control over your chin's behavior, their ability to perceive and reason is more sophisticated than most people anticipate and blind obedience to human will is not a realistic expectation. They're extremely intelligent, complex, independent and inquisitive animals, and if you want a positive relationship with your chin you'll need to dedicate time and patience to understanding him and developing a rapport. People have the perspective of predators while chinchillas are prey animals, to understand them it's necessary to realize that and empathize with their perspective.
Chinchillas can tell the difference between human males and females, and some chins may develop a preference or aversion to either men or women, generalizing from how they've been treated by a member of that gender. Chinchillas don't reach adult size until they're a year old, with males it can take longer. Until then, you have chinchilla CHILDREN on your hands, so be patient, protective and doting. They actually exhibit a lot of qualities that young human children have such as being eager to please or showing jealousy if they feel they must compete for attention. Young chinchillas are typically hyperactive with a short attention span. At any age they tend to be independent and have a mind and will of their own rather than being the docile lap pet that most people expect. However, chins do relax some as they become accustomed to you and they will mellow with age, eventually becoming more receptive to sitting still for holding and petting. They are sociable and do enjoy the company of people, but more so when it's on their terms. They sometimes inherit traits, quirks of attitude or habit, from their parents. Chinchillas can spread their whiskers and also the hairs on their tail when exploring, frightened or nervous. If something should touch their whiskers or tail hairs unexpectedly while they're splayed, it gives the chin a sensory advantage that translates into increased reaction time to flee or retract if he needs to (photo). They can also hold their ears erect or point an ear in the direction of something that concerns them, to concentrate their ability to listen. When chins run, they usually hold their tail down, and this is most probably a defensive tactic which they'd use in the wild to keep their tail from injury or from being noticed and seized by predators. Chinchillas also practice fur-slip, as detailed in that section. Chins are very clean animals, they will draw back their whiskers if they are eating something messy or taking medicine, they lift their tail to urinate and many set aside one particular place, like a cage corner, to do that (and sometimes they use more than one corner). If a chin gets wet (normally they shouldn't, see "The Wet Bath"), he may do a "doggie shake" to try and fluff out his wet fur. The "doggie shake" can also apply to situations where a chin just thinks he's gotten wet, as in the case of getting kisses, even when they're (and they always should be) dry kisses. Chinchillas are social animals, in the wild they travel in groups, or "herds." They prefer companionship, the company of their own kind. We advise same-sex pairs, it's the easiest way to meet their need for social contact without involving reproduction. If your chin stares into space now and then this is not abnormal, but if he's doing it often he's probably BORED! Chins don't do well left to sit for hours on end with little or nothing interesting or new to occupy their intelligent minds with. They need and will greatly benefit from a large cage to accomodate running and playing, a variety of chew toys, at least one hideaway per chin and a cage wheel to help decrease stress and boredom inside the cage and TV during waking hours to provide environmental stimulation when they're not actively engaged in out-of-cage exercise and interaction. Chins will often snatch food away from each other, right out of the other's mouth as they're chewing, in fact. This is either tolerated because the chin with the tidbit wasn't that interested in it to begin with, or, if it's something really deletable, they'll take the treat and run to a corner or other spot where they can eat undisturbed. There is usually no real strife that arises when food is snatched, this is because as kits chinchillas learn to sample adult food by smelling, tasting and often taking what their parents are eating. Hogging the food dish by blocking another's access to it is another matter, however, and that can result in urine-spraying or dominance mounting. ROUTINES(exercise, sleep and covering cages) Chinchillas appreciate routines because predicability is comforting to animals of prey, it doesn't challenge their ability to cope. This is NOT to say that chins don't appreciate change or something new, it's only to say that their first reaction may be rejection or reluctance, they simply need time and opportunity to adjust and only then do their real preferences become clear, see Environmental Stress. In our experience, the only routines that should be observed with strict regularity are those of exercise and sleep. Aside from those, other routines will develop based on what you've led them to expect. Chew toys and the dietary staples of fresh, high quality pellets, hay, and distilled or filtered water should always be available, these are part of The Essentials. If you check their supply and replenish it in the morning before you go to work, they'll come to expect it then, if you do it in the evening after work, then that's what they'll come to expect. You may notice, too, that if you're around more in the daytime during the weekends that they may stay up later into the day or wake up earlier in the evening. If you introduce a routine, chinchillas do have an internal sense of timing and they will anticipate whatever it is they've come to expect at that certain time. If your routine changes, it may take them a while to adjust, but they eventually will. Some stability and predictability in their environment is good for chins, so it's best to choose a routine and be consistent. For instance, when our chinkids wake up in the evening, if the TV is still on the music station instead of a show, they'll bark to let us know they're up and ready to watch something interesting. Some people give their chinchillas a treat like an unsweetened mini Shredded Wheat biscuit (read the warning that goes with feeding grains) after exercise time to "bribe" them back into their cage, if you do so even once, they will look for it the next time in hopes that you're establishing a routine! Routines: Exercise Out-of-cage exercise time, even if they have a wheel, is VERY important to chinchilla health and disposition. This will be something they look forward to, establishing a routine for that is also important to maintaining a bond with you. See Exercise and Play and Playtime Bonding for details.
Routines: Sleep and Covering Cages Chinchillas are chiefly nocturnal (but can be crepuscular, i.e., active at twilight in morning and evening) and they need a a hideaway (tube, hammock, house- no plastic- and one hideaway for each cohabitating chin can prevent cagemate conflicts) in their cage as well as a cage location that is relatively quiet and secure (away from prying pets, excessive traffic) so as to be conducive to daytime sleeping. Chinchillas are all somewhat territorial and guarded by virtue of their being an animal of prey, it's EXTREMELY important to their health both mentally and physically that they feel safe, especially when they need to sleep.  There are many sleeping positions (photo) and some appear quite bizarre, as with chins who sleep with their head and upper torso hanging down out of their hammock, almost upside down. Typical sleeping positions include sleeping in a "chin pile" (photo) with other cagemates, lying on their side, lying on their back while wedged under something (shelf, wheel) or using something (ledge, chew toy, etc.) as a pillow. If you are concerned about your chinchilla's state of being while he's asleep, take note of his sides to see that he's still breathing regularly. Since 1997 we've kept sheets around our chinfamily's cages (on three sides with front open, as pictured), and due to the positive effects that we (and others, especially those who handle difficult behavioral cases in rescue) have experienced, we advise keeping a sheet (no strings, fringe or loose weave) wrapped around the individual chinchilla cages. The sheet will help contain mess and dust, it makes a barrier between cages where knowledge of the opposite sex or other chinchillas right next door (proximity is the issue, seeing other chins across the room is not a problem but seeing them right next door often is) can instigate dominance mounting, territorial anxiety (and excessively marking territory with urine) and cagemate conflicts. Perhaps most importantly, covering the cage provides some privacy and seclusion which reassures the chin (especially high-strung chins) that the area within their domain is protected and secure, especially for daytime sleeping. Throughout our years of rescue work we've taken in chins that were high-strung, severely stressed and fur-bitten that made rapid improvement due in part to simply having their cage covered. When a small animal of prey feels trapped, overly-exposed and vulnerable, it can be a stress factor. Chinchillas are all somewhat territorial by nature, and covering cages can PREVENT cagemate conflicts, especially in situations where a group is not used to having other chinchillas right next door and is suddenly confronted with that situation, constituting a territorial violation. If the cages AREN'T covered and the view of other chins right next door has already provoked fighting within a group, then the problem has become INTERNAL to the group (a problem between cagemates) rather than external (a problem with other chins violating their territory), and at that point covering the cage probably will not "fix" the problem the way it could have prevented it. Also be aware that if playtime territorial issues, such as having a playroom separate from the cage room, are not observed, then territorial problems (fighting, excessive territorial marking) may continue in spite of covering cages. If a single chin is "securing" his territory by marking it with urine continuously and excessively, peeing on wooden shelves, wheels, houses and so forth (it's normal for chins to urinate in their cage corners and to urinate on cage accessories once in awhile, some territorial marking is also normal), especially around the periphery, then covering the cage can curb that behavior because it will secure the chin's territory for him so that he doesn't "need" to. This solution doesn't always work instantly though, because, as is typical with chins, they often need time to adjust to the change. A chin that is very territorialistic may even increase his territorial marking for awhile before realizing and accepting that his territory is secure. Chins will also mark territory excessively if there is an environmental stress factor (chaotic environment, prying household pets) at work that needs to be resolved. We have had both wire and wooden shelving for years, we also keep metal tubes (pointy edges sanded down), hammocks, wooden houses and both Saucer and traditional style wheels in our chinkids' cages and we've never had a problem with excessive territorial marking. Sometimes when a cage accessory is new they may mark it a few times, and but otherwise they almost never urinate on their cage accessories. And this isn't because our chinkids are charm school graduates, either, our chinfamily is composed of mostly rescues and we make a point of taking in and working with the worst behavioral cases, many of which are very territorialistic. We attribute the lack of excessive territorial marking to the measures we take to ensure our chins feel secure and protected (covering cages) and the distractions (chew toys, wheel, TV) we provide to help prevent environmental stresses, boredom in particular. PLEASE NOTE: If the sheet is pulled taut around the cage, which can be done by tucking it under the cage, it will be more difficult to pull in. But if your chin's cage doesn't have the safe (smaller) mesh width, then he will most likely get a curiosity itch and will try to pull the sheet into his cage, and probably with great success because a larger, unsafe mesh width (which is conducive to amputations) makes it easier for chins to pull things into the cage that they shouldn't. Pulling the sheet in is more of an inconvenience for the chinparent who has to readjust it than a problem for the chin as long as the sheet has no strings, fringe or loose weave that could be pulled loose and accidentally ingested, causing a fatal intestinal blockage. A regular bedsheet or cloth of tight weave may eventually get worn or even get holes from occassional gnawing, but that's not a potential health hazard for the chin. If your chin displays an avid interest in chewing his sheet, change the brand or scent of your detergent or fabric softener, it can sometimes cause the sheet to smell appetizing. Chins don't normally make a habit of chewing on cage sheets, but a chin who is stressed or bored, ESPECIALLY bored, can resort to such fidgeting behaviors. As noted previously on this page, a large cage to accomodate running and playing, a variety of chew toys, at least one hideaway per chin and a cage wheel will help decrease stress and boredom inside the cage while TV during waking hours will provide environmental stimulation when the chin isn't actively engaged in out-of-cage exercise and interaction. New, king or queen-sized flat sheets can be purchased cheaply on ebay, at store sales, etc., and of course always wash linen before putting it to use. We also play soothing music softly in the background during sleeping hours. INITIATING BONDING, A HANDS-ON APPROACH (first contact procedure) Also see: Environmental Stress The commonly advised (read why a lot of common advice is problematic) "hands-off" or, "let the chin come to you" approach of initiating a relationship with a chinchilla can work fine with chins who've come from a background of positive socialization with people. Unfortunately, many chins have not, and we often hear from very frustrated chinparents who have been applying the "hands-off" advice with a chinchilla from a background of negative socialization due to previous environment or treatment. "Just sit with you arm resting in the cage and wait for him to come to you" or "Just ignore your new chin and let him settle in for the first few days, or week" might sound reasonable to us because we're not a small, powerless animal of prey trapped behind bars, dreading and expecting the worst, feeling alone, terrified, bewildered. When a chin is fearful of interaction and handling, if he shrieks or acts intimidated and terrified, then he NEEDS TO BE HELD AND GENTLY REASSURED, see: First Contact Procedure and Catching and Handling Your Chinchilla. You wouldn't withdraw from or turn your back on a crying, frightened child; a terrified chinchilla is no different in this way. Some people interpret and react to animal behavior on a very one-dimensional level: "The chin acts afraid and alarmed when I approach, this must mean that I'm not wanted and should just go away." Such a response will only confirm and intensify the chin's fear and apprehension, it will make things WORSE. A scared chinchilla can't help acting scared, and that behavior is a cry for help, it is absolutely NOT a deliberate effort to drive off his only hope of comfort and reassurance. Fear and apprehension won't magically resolve themselves, something needs to take place for those feelings to subside, for confidence and trust to grow in their place. Only the chinparent has the ability to make this happen, because the chinparent is responsible for and in control of everything that affects the chin: his environment, how he is provided for and treated. For a chin to overcome his fear and learn to interact and socialize in a positive, healthy way, the chinparent must faithfully provide all the essentials so that the chin realizes that he can trust his caretaker to meet his needs, and then the chinparent must be assertive and persistent (it can take time and patience!) in reassuring the chin when he is afraid, helping him to feel confident that he is loved and valued. We advise a "hands-on" approach (as detailed in First Contact Procedure) because in our experience working with behavioral rehabilitation cases and chinchillas from all adoption backgrounds, this provides a positive foundation for building a relationship with a chin regardless of his former environment or treatment, his experience with people. We also advise covering cages (as described on Routines) because it has many benefits, including providing a sense of protection and security. To understand why a behavioral approach succeeds or fails, it's necessary to understand the perspective of the one on the receiving end. Like all animals, the behaviors that chinchillas exhibit are chiefly instinctual, the result of nature's programming. Animals are neither morally complex nor egotistically driven, they are motivated by simple instinct whose goal it is to survive, thrive and reproduce (NOTE: chinchillas do not "need" to be bred and we promote same-sex pairing in captivity due to issues with overpopulation and careless breeding. This reference relates to their instincts in nature). On one level of existence, chinchillas are prey animals, humans are predators. Prey animals take their cue (how to act, what to expect, how to successfully "survive, thrive and reproduce") from their environment, and especially from the dominant species in their environment (chinparent). Animals of prey use their intelligence and cunning in a more defensive or reactionary way in their environment (to avoid becoming a meal, but also to thrive) while predators take a more assertive role: initiating action, setting the pace, establishing expectations. This means that chinchillas anticipate that the more dominant species in their environment will make the first move, will confidently initiate the relationship, will welcome and reassure them and show them what to expect. At the same time the chin is expecting this, a chinparent using the "hands-off" approach is expecting the chin to take charge, to assert himself. What happens when the chin is ignored so he can "settle in," or when the new chinparent acts tentative or afraid to pick him up, catch or handle him? To an animal of prey, such wary, withholding behavior on the part of the dominant species creates an atmosphere of fear, tension and uncertainty which at its very worst can cause the chin to succumb to stress-related shock. Tentative behavior, like waving one's hand around the chin in a hesitating gesture prior to picking him up, can be perceived as stalking, teasing or adversarial and this can cause the chin to respond with anti-social (defensive) behavior. They really do expect that as the dominant and more powerful species, their chinparent should know what to do and when they get mixed messages, it makes matters worse. Confusion resulting from the reverse role-playing of the hands-off approach can wreak havoc on a chinparent's relationship with their new chin. By using a hands-on approach (as detailed in First Contact Procedure), the initiative for bonding is put where the chin instinctively expects it to be, on the chinparent. And when the chinparent assumes the role of initiating bonding and setting positive expectations, then the chin is given a definite framework within which to interact, which helps to alleviate his fears (fear of the unknown, of neglect, abandonment or mistreatment) and reassure him that he can put faith and trust in his chinparent and expect the best from his new situation. First Contact Procedure If you have a chin that came with more serious anti-social behaviors (biting, urine-spraying), skip First Contact Procedure and begin behavioral rehabilitation immediately. Initiating Bonding, A Hands-On Approach should be read prior to this section. It's important to understand that "a hands-on approach" is NOT the same as forcing your attention on your new pet in obnoxious or overbearing ways. Overpowering him with your attentions can be just as frightening as withholding attention altogether, there is an appropriate middle ground and THAT is what we're advocating here by a hands-on approach: giving attention that is gentle, soothing, calming, caring. When a chin is new to an environment, he needs to be welcomed by the dominant species in that environment (you, the chinparent) with positive reassurance that this is friendly territory where he will be valued and respected and his needs met with cheerful reliability so that he can safely entrust his welfare and happiness to your loving care. We know of cases where chins that did not receive such immediate reassurance developed anxiety, panic and then died from stress-related shock, in fact, this article was originally written after hearing from several distraught chinparents that had been abstaining from interacting with, picking up or holding their chinchilla because they were led to believe the chin should be ignored and allowed to "settle in" or to make the first move toward bonding. But after waiting for days, weeks and sometimes months, if their chin hadn't succumbed to stress and died, then it had shied away from them, became a fearful bundle of nerves, began fur-biting or even developed anti-social (biting, urine-spraying) habits. It is especially important for ranch chinchillas to be reassured, they can succumb to stress-related shock otherwise. A hands-on approach is simple. After you get your new chin home and give him about an hour to look around his new cage and get acquainted with his surroundings, then gently pick him up (if he goes berserk, see Catching and Handling Your Chinchilla) and find a quiet place to sit where you can watch TV or listen to music and hold your chinchilla for a little while. With a loving touch and genuine concern for his comfort and happiness, speak to him in a soothing tone, tell him he's a good boy, be positive, gentle and reassuring. Kiss (dry kiss!) his belly, his paws, his cheek, (whatever he seems to appreciate and be receptive to, try to find your positive interaction niche) let him snuggle into or under your shirt, under a lap blanket or in the crook of your arm and then find how he likes to be petted. Chins don't like to be petted in strokes, see this description of chin scratches and use that instead, all the while speaking soothingly to him. Be aware that some chinchillas react to human breath as if they're being bombarded by another animal's natural defenses. That is, they think that humans use breath the same way that another chin sprays urine, the way a porcupine uses its quills or a squid shoots ink; human breath can be overwhelming, repulsive and even threatening, especially if a chin is not accustomed to interaction with people. It can take a little time for some chins to realize that our breath is not meant offensively. Take out your new chin and bond with him like this once daily, during his evening waking hours, for about five or ten minutes at a time or more frequently if he appears receptive. This can develop into out-of-cage exercise and playtime bonding when the chin is ready to explore his play area, and once he's confident (and depending on his situation it may take months and a lot of time and patience for him to get confident) with you and his situation, then it's alright to let him take the initiative and come to you. To invite him to take the initiative, put both your hands out, palms up, in front of the cage and wait for him to walk out onto your hands, or hold the cage door open and let him come out to you. Not all chins will be receptive to this, what is important is that you extended the invitation, not whether or not he took it, and don't just try this once and give up, not every chin may get the idea the first time. Also, don't be surprised if the chin needs to be caught and taken to the playroom for exercise, this is typical and a chin's reluctance to be picked up should NOT be misconstrued as disinterest in out-of-cage playtime! Read more about Catching and Handling Your Chinchilla.
The intent of a hands-on approach is to reassure your chin, to put him at ease and to encourage confidence and reciprocal trust and bonding. When you and your chinchilla find your communication groove, you'll know it and then this initial bonding approach will no longer be necessary. While becoming acquainted with your chin, be sure that all his essential needs are being met, including his need for a setup that provides some quiet and solitude (away from prying pets, excessive traffic) during daytime sleeping hours, this is essential to his health and a successful adjustment. We also highly recommend TV for chins during their nocturnal waking hours, it is extremely helpful in getting them to desensitize somewhat, to adjust to the hustle and bustle of the household all from the safety and comfort of their cage. It may not be smooth sailing at first, but your chinchilla needs you to reach out with affection and understanding and eventually he will come around, so be gentle but persistent in comforting and reassuring him. Don't let a "gruffer" or a "barker" dissuade you from handling him, those are the ones most in need of positive attention and they're usually not biters, they're usually the ones that are "all bark and no bite." A good guideline is, if the chin is frightened (including those chins that go berserk at the prospect of being picked up, caught or held), then hold, snuggle and reassure him, but when he's got gusto and confidence, let him go and he'll come back to you. If you have taken in a chin that needs some medical care, like tending to a superficial wound our callouses and the chin is resistant to treatment, don't withhold care at this point for fear of stressing him out. In fact, as we advised chinparents in one case where a couple chins needed treatment for Bumblefoot: "It's your stand-offishness and temerity that are actually making it look like you ARE something to be feared and avoided. You need to catch and hold them and talk softly to them and persist with moisturizing their feet until the callouses/cuts heal. Do it for their own good and it's not excessive or stressful once they learn that you are in charge AND that they have nothing to fear from that. No, you won't be giving them flashbacks to what they were put through before, by letting them misbehave you're actually reinforcing their insecurity because you're not in control. When they test their boundaries and there seem to be none, they keep testing, they need boundaries to feel secure, much like very young children." A new chin needs at least a week to get acquainted with you before being introduced to another chin. They need to be firmly grounded in a bond of trust and understanding with you, to know that you won't let harm come to them, to know that you have their best interests at heart. It's fundamental to a chin's confidence and will to live that he knows that, also, introductions should never be rushed or forced to satisfy the chinparent's impatience, this can and has resulted in chinchilla injuries and deaths. RELATING TO YOUR CHINCHILLA (chin scratches or grooming, playtime bonding, catching and handling) Also see: General Characteristics of Behavior and Communication and Initiating Bonding, A Hands-On Approach Chin Scratches or Grooming Chins don't like to be petted in strokes the way we would a dog or a cat. Instead, rub the tummy, under the chin, along the jawline, behind the ears or on the forehead in a circular, massaging motion (see video examples: Leescratches1.flv, Leescratches2.flv) that is sometimes referred to as "chin scratches." Approach your chin palms-up to give scratches, this way he'll know he isn't getting picked up, and use key words first to communicate intent, for example, we say, "scratch-scratch, scratch-scratch" a few times and they come to their cage door or let us approach during playtime to get their scratches. If you want to hold your chin on your lap for a little while before letting him out to run or before putting him back in his cage, by giving chin scratches you'll entice him to pause for a few moments of bliss. It is typical for chins to gruff in response to chin scratches. They guide each other during grooming sessions as well, making little chirping or gruffing sounds to guide their groomer's technique. A little gruff means "not quite right, you're almost there," the irritated gruff means you're quite off and short barks when you initially approach means they're just not in the mood. It takes time and requires empathy and awareness to discern what your chin's sounds mean, exactly what he's trying to tell you, and individuals do vary somewhat in their communication sounds. Watch both your chin's body language and sound variation while you're grooming him and this will help guide you; once your chin is being happily scratched he'll be quiet and completely absorbed in your perfected technique. Be aware that chins do nibble and this should not be reacted to adversely, they nibble each other while grooming and they may also groom their chinparent (knuckes, fingers, callouses, beard stubble, eyebrows, etc.) in response to chin scratches or just to express their affection and regard. A chin who is really enjoying his tummy rub will pull your hand in closer to show how much he likes it, and then nibble your knuckles gently, grooming you in appreciative reciprocation. If the chin becomes a bit too rough with his nibbling, then a simple admonishment like, "gentle, honey, gentle" and pulling your hand back a little will deter him, communicating the do's and don'ts of how you like to be groomed without violating your moment of bonding. Playtime Bonding The best time to bond with your chinchilla is during out-of-cage exercise time, or playtime. Chin scratches while in the cage (see article) and some cuddling when handling are great too, but chins are free spirits that love to run and play, and being there to share in their joy is the ultimate chinparenthood experience. We use key words to let our chins know when it's playtime ("playtime," repeated several times while getting them out of their cage and taking them to the playroom) and when playtime is over, to let them know that it's time to be caught and returned to their cage ("getcha," repeated several time while we catch and return them to their cage). When chins know what to expect it allows them to relax and enjoy themselves the rest of the time, they can act natural without being wary of being caught. Even though the playroom should be sufficiently chin-proofed, if your chin happens to get into something he shouldn't, snap your fingers or clap your hands once or twice and say "no" in a firm, not loud or frightening, manner. Use this tactic sparingly or its effect will diminish. When your chin is running about, let him lead and take the initiative in coming to you, his curiosity will eventually lead him to do so unless he's new and hasn't been through First Contact Procedure. By allowing him to approach you during playtime, on his terms, you will be establishing a balance of respect in the relationship. Allow him to come up and investigate, jump off of, climb on you, etc., and don't make a grab for him or try to handle him, just let him have his fun. Of course it's fine to reach out to him palms up (they know we can't catch them that way and thus it's a gesture of friendliness rather than dominance) to do the affectionate things like give him a rub on the tummy or chin scratches under the chin, behind the ears or on the forehead. When your chin realizes that the playroom is HIS domain where interaction is on HIS terms, it will instill a sense of confidence and security in him and reinforce his trust in you. Chinchillas are very perceptive, naturally curious and affectionate, they groom each other by gently nibbling and when they're comfortable with you they'll nibble at your hand, perch on your head, take flying leaps from your shoulder and run across any book or handheld device you may be engrossed in. Several of our chins have expressed an interest in our laptop, watching us use the graphics program and putting their paw on the keyboard periodically to ensure their input counts. Chins are amazing to watch at play, they sometimes ricochet off things to gain height while they race about, like springing off the wall to jump as high as the top of the door frame. They love stairs, a ladder in the playroom works well too, it gives them an advantageous lookout point. The more active, wild and crazy a chin is, the more happy he is. The ultimate expressions of chinchilla joy and happiness include: "wall surfing" (bouncing off walls) and the mid-air jump and twitch, sometimes called "popcorning" but better referred to as a "happy dance." Catching and Handling Your Chinchilla Additional Articles: Crystal Chinchillas- see Getting Started, then Handling; Granite City Chinchilla's article If your chin is afraid of handling and interaction, see: Initiating Bonding, A Hands-On Approach It's NORMAL for a chinchilla to not want to be caught or picked up, this should not be considered cause for dismay, it also does not mean that the chin doesn't like their chinparent. A chin's reluctance, even aversion, to being caught or picked up derives from their instinct as an animal of prey, it's in their nature to want to avoid "capture." Most chinchillas (especially younger ones, chins get more sedentary as they age) don't like to be held for long, either, they'd rather be on the move, but even those that will endure some holding and cuddling still usually don't enjoy being caught or picked up. Some resistance to being caught or picked up should NOT be misread as a sign that the chin wants to be left alone and ignored, this will only worsen relations, see Initiating Bonding, A Hands-On Approach. Chins NEED out-of-cage exercise and playtime bonding, the chinparent should EXPECT to have to catch their chin when he's in his cage in order to get him out, and once he's out, to catch him to return him to his cage- this is NORMAL. Chins that come bouncing up to their cage door on cue, who will stand perfectly still in order to be caught, or who will come and go on command or when called are just NOT the norm. NOTE: Do NOT use MCBA's care page advice, "If your animal gets loose and you are having trouble catching it, a fish net or live trap works well." Doing this will damage the trust in your relationship and could make your chin anti-social as a defense reaction to this perceived aggression. The same thing applies to using a butterfly net, even if used gently, nets can easily cause injury because chins dart about quickly and their thin leg bones are stretched out during movement. Also, in the wild chinchillas are preyed upon by owls, and even at this point of domestication it is terrifying and stressful to have something repeatedly trying to pounce on them from overhead. If your chinchilla is in his cage as opposed to running around the playroom, then catching and picking him up will be relatively easy. Sometimes a well-socialized chin will be willing to come out on his own if you hold your hands together in front of the cage door, palms up (they know we can't catch them that way and thus it's a gesture of friendliness rather than dominance) or if you offer him your shoulder to perch on, but don't be surprised if even a well-socialized chin doesn't always respond to that. Again, this is not a sign that the chin has chosen to forego out-of-cage exercise and playtime bonding forever, just pick him up and take him to the playroom and watch his attiude change from ornery reluctance to joyful enthusiasm. If your chin sprays urine or attempts to bite, see Initiating Bonding, A Hands-On Approach and Behavioral Rehabilitation. If for some reason your chin is exhibiting anti-social behavior but needs to be picked up urgently, say if he's hurt and requires immediate veterinary attention, just put on gloves (for biters) and proceed with the instructions detailed below. It is important for the chinparent to realize that when catching, picking up and handling their chinchilla, they must move with an assertive, definite and confident approach. Apprehensive or reluctant behavior on the part of the chinparent WILL be perceived by the chin, they are very perceptive and when fear and uncertainty is conveyed to them by the dominant species (chinparent) in their environment, they become uneasy and fearful. Tentative behavior, such as waving one's hand around the chin in a hesitating gesture prior to picking him up, can be perceived as teasing or adversarial and this can cause the chin to respond with anti-social (defensive) behavior. Be aware that if your chinchilla is nervous (or especially if made nervous by the chinparent's lack of confident approach), frightened or caught by surprise, he may release fur where he's touched. The phenomenon of "fur-slipping" is described in detail in the hyperlinked article but suffice to say here that this is a voluntary defense reaction on the chinchilla's part, it doesn't hurt the chin and his fur will regrow. Before picking up your chinchilla, say some comforting words in a low, soothing tone while you reach for and take hold of the BASE of his tail, the part where it meets the body, with one hand. Do not grab and hold onto the tail's END, it CAN break off! (photo) This is not a "defense mechanism," it WON'T grow back (although fur will regrow on the stump), it will bleed, it IS painful and the reason it snaps off is simply because that thin, fragile strip of fur and flesh cannot sustain the tension caused by the chin throwing his whole body weight in the opposite direction of your grip. If the chin starts yanking and struggling before you have a SOLID grip on the BASE of the tail, simply let him go and try again.  When you have the base of the tail gripped securely in one hand, simultaneously slide your other hand under your chin's body for support and gently draw him toward you. Cradle him against your chest and either keep his feet on your chest or hold him to your chest and support his feet with your hands, in any case the feet should ALWAYS be resting on something solid, never dangling. "Scooping up" a chin by placing one hand under his middle and the other hand under his posterior for support before lifting him to your chest is also acceptable but should be used only when the chin is stationary and unlikely to take off, such as when lifting the chin out of a carrier. When a chin pauses but still has the opportunity to run, it's too easy for the chinparent to accidentally tighten their grip around the chin's middle if he starts moving during the "scooping up," and this can result in bruised or broken ribs.
THIS IS IMPORTANT: Once your chin is being held, it's give positive reinforcement that will help him make a positive association with being picked up and held. This can be done by holding him for a moment or two before putting him back in his cage, and while he's being held talk to him in kind, reassuring tones, give him little dry kisses on his cheek or see if he's in the mood for "chin scratches," as described in this article. If the chin is acting frantic it will help calm him if you gently cover his eyes with your hand or let him burrow under your arm (photo) so that he can feel that he's tucked somewhere safe. Comfort and reassure the chin but do NOT release him until he is calm, otherwise he will learn that going berserk is his ticket to not being handled and he will use that tactic to get his way in future and this will ultimately NOT be to his advantage because chins NEED out-of-cage exercise and interaction. Frightened, frantic chins will EVENTUALLY stop being that way (it can may take awhile, even months) if they are CONSISTENTLY given positive reinforcement when picked up, if they are consistently comforted and reassured until they are calm. Be aware that chinchillas with a particularly thick, heavy coat usually cannot take being held for very long because it makes them too hot, especially during warm weather. Try holding your super-furry guy or gal when the room temperature is well below 70F. If your chinchilla has been out playing and needs to be returned to his cage, he will most likely need to be chased to be caught and returned. Some people have luck calling their chin by name, giving a command or bribing them back to their cage with a treat, however, we advise caution with the latter because sugary treats, such as raisins, given around playtime can cause bloodsugar-related seizures. It's better to offer a healthier treat, like an unsweetened Wheat 'N Bran mini Shredded Wheat biscuit (read the warning that goes with feeding grains). In our experience, though, commands and bribes aren't always reliable, especially if for some reason you need the chin to go back to his cage right away and he was looking forward to enjoying his freedom indefinitely. As a result of many years of experience working with chinchillas from all backgrounds, including rescue and ranch chins that have needed socializing (because they lack experience with people) or behavioral rehabiliation (because they have had negative experiences with people), and from having our fair share of chasing these chins in order to catch them, we have learned for certain that it's not a question of whether or not a chin should be chased, but rather it's a matter of HOW the chasing is done. There is a right way that is non-traumatizing and a wrong way that is. Firstly, there must be an established rapport of affection, trust and mutual respect between you and your chinchilla, see Initiating Bonding, A Hands-On Approach. All our chins come forward to give kisses through the cage mesh or when we just lean our head into their cage, that's one sign that we've established positive communication. Then, when it's time for the chin to go back to his cage, use cunning, not speed, to catch him. Outsmart him by heading him off or anticipating his move so that he can be caught quickly and efficiently. DON'T: run (this is DANGEROUS, you may not be able to stop in time to avoid an accident), shout, make loud exclamations, set up road blocks, move furniture (he'll run into them head-first), or use dramatic, startling gestures. Approach with deliberate, calculated, swift action. At all times, you are the one in charge of the situation and it must remain absolutely safe and under your control. Stop and rest immediately if the chin begins to appear stressed, or if he can't be caught after about five minutes, so that you both can catch your breath and recoup. And finally, no matter how bratty or uncooperative a chin acts when you're trying to catch him, NEVER reprimand or display frustration or anger once he's been picked up, that will only result in the chin making a negative association with being caught, a negative association he may extend to the chinparent in general. Instead, follow the positive reinforcement advice given previously in this article and soon your chin will learn what to expect from you when being picked up, and it won't be a stressful ordeal because he knows that being caught has a happy ending. |
