| Also see: Don't Kill Your Chin With "Kindness!" and Environmental Malocclusion: Calcium Deficiency Chinchilla nutrition is basic and straightforward, they DO NOT need vegetables added to their diet the way that rabbits and guinea pigs do. When chinchillas are fed unlimited amounts of fresh, high quality pellets (manufactured specifically for chinchillas) and a variety of hays, when they're given treats very sparingly with an emphasis on what is healthier, when they're supplemented with vitamin C and given calcium supplementing only when pregnant/ nursing or if they become calcium deficient, then this basic approach to diet and nutrition is, in our opinion which comes as a result of considerable experience and research, the best course of action to pursue for optimum health. Always introduce any dietary change slowly (see: Pellets) and discontinue treats until the change is complete. When adding something to their diet only add one new thing at a time; for instance, let your chin's digestive system adjust to a new type of hay or treat before introducing another.  Whenever
a chin has internal health
issues (pneumonia, digestive, etc.) or dental disease (including malocclusion), STOP all treats of a potentially hazardous (dried fruit with its concentrated sugar, nuts, seeds, etc.) nature until it is certain the chin has fully recovered. NUTRITION ARTICLES Chinchilla Coprophagy, or, more accurately, Cecotrophy: PetEducation.com (also .doc), ChinchillAZ, wikipedia.org General nutrition articles: Azure Chinchillas, Chinchillas.com, Chinchillas2Home, Darren's Chinchilla Haven, PCVH www or .doc, Picxiechins J-Type feeders can be lethal! ChinBin's warning Micronutrients, Hay, Pellet Mix, Vitamin Mixture, Other Feeds, see "food": CA Chins Supplimentary feeding Azure Chinchillas Treats, fat and sugar content: Chinchilla Cymru Vitamin A linked to "yellow fat" and mixed food warning Ebony Dragon Chinchillas  NUTRITION IN CAPTIVITY: APPROXIMATING THE WILD DIET (malnutrition, wild diet and nutritional requirements) Also see: Environmental Malocclusion: Calcium Deficiency (discusses problems with captive diet) Malnutrition This is, unfortunately, not an uncommon sight for those of us who do chinchilla rescue and re-homing. We see it primarily in the chins who come to us that are calcium deficient, underweight or fur-chewed (malnutrition causes stress). Sometimes the reason for malnutrition is that the chin was fed very poorly: only given feed intended for other small animals, like rats or gerbils, or supplied with excessive amounts of nuts, seeds, fruits, vegetables or cereals (potential health hazards), sometimes entirely in place of the dietary staples of pellets and hay. Malnutrition can result in, among other things, seizures caused by thiamine and calcium deficiencies. Selective feeding, however, is the chief cause of malnutrition. This occurs when a chin is offered treats (or has a pellet mix with treat bits in it, which can also detrimentally increase fat and sugar intake) with enough frequency that he voluntarily decreases his intake of dietary staples (hay, pellets and distilled or filtered water) in preference of holding out for treats. Chinchillas should not be free-fed treats for any reason, it is detrimental to their health and will not achieve positive results with weight gain, see Treats vs. Health Hazards. When treats are offered, they must be given in moderation, because although chinchillas will NOT overeat of their dietary staples of pellets and hay, they WILL overeat treats. Malnutrition can take weeks, even months to overcome, see the next section for nutritional requirements and suggestions, but in the meantime a malnutritioned chin should not receive any treats that are potential Health Hazards. Wild Diet and Nutritional Requirements Also see: Two Studies of the Wild Chinchilla Diet, and Plant Photos To date there have been no scientifically confirmed nutritional studies of chinchillas in captivity that would tell us what criteria constitutes a nutritionally complete and balanced chinchilla diet. What we do have to go on is a knowledge of what chinchillas eat in the wild and the insight of veterinarians. From these sources it has been deduced that the most nutritionally healthy diet in captivity consists of unlimited access to fresh, high quality hay and pellets manufactured specifically for chinchillas. UNlike rabbits and guinea pigs, chinchillas do NOT need fresh vegetables, it will in fact predispose them to bloat, which can be fatal. Chinchillas will not overeat of their dietary staples of pellets and hay, only treats, which are not an essential dietary requirement and excessive amounts of fat, sugar and protein can detrimentally affect health. Vitamin C supplementing is adviseable for the dental benefits it provides, and chins actually regard chewable vitamin C tablets as "treats." Due to the potential for parasites, chemicals and contaminants, chinchillas should be given distilled or filtered water, not tap water. Pregnant/ nursing chins should always receive both vitamin C and calcium supplementing, their bodies are being depleted by the process of creating and nourishing new life. Supplementing calcium in particular at that critical time can prevent calcium deficiency and malocclusion from occurring in the mother or kits in the future. Moderate amounts of additional protein or vitamins/ minerals (see: Healthiest Treats, and alfalfa hay is a good source of protein and calcium) can be beneficial to ailing, malnourished or pregnant/ nursing chins, but kits should never be supplemented directly as that can be detrimental unless vet-advised. Studies of the wild chinchilla diet indicate that they are herbivores that require a high-fiber diet: "Overall, fibers made up most (greater than 66%) of the diet in both years and in all seasons. These fibrous items are extremely difficult to identify and may correspond to highly lignified plant parts such as bark and woody stems of shrubs and of the succulent agave-like bromeliad Puya berteroniana. "Herbs and shrubs followed in importance in the chinchilla diet. Identified succulents made up only a small fraction of the chinchilla diet, and were eaten in a non-predictable way throughout the two years. The same was true for seeds, the least represented food category in the diet." (ref- .pdf, Seasonal Food Habits) "Free-ranging chinchillas survived on a diet of grasses, cactus fruit, leaves, and the bark of small shrubs and bushes. Captive chins need a diet high in fiber to prevent enteric problems. The basic chinchilla diet consists of a good quality grass hay (timothy) and a small amount of chinchilla pellets. Because the diet must be high in fiber, the sole feeding of pellets must be avoided." (ref- Heidi L. Hoefer, DVM, DABVP) "By studying chinchillas in their natural environment, we know that they eagerly seek out berries, herbs and cactus fruits as well as high-fiber foods such as grasses and the bark of small shrubs and bushes. In order for nutrients to be extracted, this diet requires a large volume of food intake and prolonged chewing, both of which are important factors in maintaining the chinchilla's gastrointestinal and dental health." (ref- Peter G. Fisher, DVM, Pet Care Veterinary Hospital) Proper nutrition, which includes hay, can help prevent dental problems in domestic chinchillas: "The chinchilla has evolved in arid mountain conditions where vegetation is fibrous and coarse, low in energy, and high in abrasive silicates. Captive chinchillas are often fed a processed diet of pellets, raisins, alfalfa and treats that require minimal chewing and are low in abrasive phytoliths. This low-roughage diet dramatically reduces tooth wear and is thought to be a major contributing factor in most of the dental abnormalities seen in chinchillas. Offering a diet high in "chew factor" like grass hay may help slow down the development of dental disease in chinchillas." (ref- .pdf, AEMV Magazine) "The chinchilla originates from an area of the Andes mountains where vegetation is tough and fibrous and low in energy content. As a result, a large amount of food is eaten and alot of chewing takes place. This results in the normal wear of the cheek teeth which are open rooted and grow continously to compensate for this wear." (ref- Heidi L. Hoefer, DVM, DABVP) "Improper diets are responsible for many digestive disorders. The chinchilla requires a diet that is high in fibre, with moderate amounts of protein." (ref- .doc, Richardson's "Diseases of Small Domestic Rodents") "Chinchillas are herbivorous rodents with teeth that all grow continuously. In captivity they are commonly affected by dental disease. Since the range of dental disease occurring in wild chinchillas is unknown, the dentition of museum specimens originally obtained from the wild was assessed and compared with specimens prepared from captive bred animals. Skulls from wild-caught chinchillas showed minimal evidence of dental disease and the teeth were all short, cheek tooth lengths averaging 5.9 mm. Cheek tooth lengths in zoo specimens (average 6.6 mm), clinically normal (average 7.4 mm) and captive bred animals with dental disease (average 10 mm) were significantly elongated by comparison (p < 0.0001). Captive bred specimens showed a wide range of tooth related lesions. "These results suggest that some aspect of captivity is responsible for the development of dental disease in chinchillas. It is suggested that the diet (its physical form and composition) is the main etiological factor, and that provision of a diet closely matching that of wild chinchillas should significantly reduce the incidence of dental disease in captive chinchillas." (ref- "Skull size and cheek tooth lengths in wild and captive chinchilla populations," by David A. Crossley and Maria del Mar Miguélez) PROVIDE A VARIETY OF HAYS! (additional articles and guaranteed analysis charts, see suppliers) Also see: Reducing the Allergic Impact of Hay and Dust, and The Gastrointestinal System and GI Stasis Hay is the domestic chin's substitute for the roughage they had in the wild, i.e., the "bark and woody stems of shrubs." The contribution that hay makes to roughage and dietary fiber is essential for maintaining good GI tract health (see GI stasis article) in chinchillas. It is absolutely vital that a chin never goes without his hay, and by providing a variety of hays you will encourage your chin's interest in consuming it while supplying him with greater nutritional benefit. Grinding and chewing course hay also keeps constantly-growing teeth filed down, preventing molar spurs and other dental problems, like overgrowth and malocclusion. Although most chins aren't extremely particular about the brand or distributor of hay as long as it is of high quality, if your chinchilla isn't eating his hay you need to switch to another brand or distributor until you find one that he prefers. The dietary staples of fresh, high quality pellets, hay and distilled or filtered water should ALWAYS be available for consumption; chinchillas will not overeat of their dietary staples, only treats. Good hay will look clean, light and dry, be free of thorns, dampness or mold and it will smell like it was just cut and dried in warm sunshine, i.e., fresh and not musty. Always keep edibles on the top level of the cage, where they are most likely to stay clean and clear of droppings and urine. A non-breeding pet chin's primary hay, for daily use, should be high in fiber and low in protein; grass hays in general (timothy, mountain grass, brome, orchard grass, etc.) fit this description. The basis for the old "high-fiber, low protein" guideline is that most pellets were (and are still) alfalfa-based, and since alfalfa (a legume hay) is a high-fiber, high protein hay, the chin's pellets already supply sufficient protein. But even when alfalfa pellets are fed, it is still adviseable to serve alfalfa hay occassionally as part of a non-breeding pet chin's hay variety. Alfalfa hay is beneficial because it is very nutrient rich, which is also the reason it should be introduced slowly, to avoid soft/ mushy droppings. If a chin is being fed a timothy-based pellet, then he should be served alfalfa hay more regularly to ensure sufficient protein consumption. Chins who are ailing, malnourished or pregnant/ nursing can benefit from a moderate increase in protein, vitamins/ minerals, and in those circumstances alfalfa hay (high in fiber, protein and calcium) can be served as a primary hay. Grain hays (oat, wheat, barley, etc.) can be fed occassionally but should not be used as a primary hay, read the warning that goes with feeding grains. The articles and guaranteed analysis charts section provides additional information. Sometimes a chin may have a slight sensitivity to hay, especially if he's inhaled some small particles, in which case he may make the nose-clearing sound and wipe his nose. But be observant, as these symptoms can indicate the onset of pneumonia or other respiratory problems. chinchillas2shop 
in the UK has many types of loose hay and hay snacks (luciebix,
meadowbix) and as long as you introduce new hays slowly, your
chinchilla will be able to handle the variety offered by suppliers:
alfalfa, brome, bluegrass, lucerne, meadow grass, mountain grass,
oat, orchard grass, readigrass, wheat, timothy...Regarding hay cubes and loose hay: Hay cubes are chopped and compressed hay, they typically come in timothy or alfalfa and both hay cubes and loose hay provide a chin with his necessary nutritional fiber. If your chinchilla is experiencing difficulty chewing due to dental problems, try crumbling hay from a hay cube into a bowl for him to eat from. Cubes are also ideal to put in a carrier when shipping, transporting or travelling with your chin. Loose hay may require more grinding from the molars (which is a good thing) because it isn't processed, but hay cubes (chopped hay) aren't exactly minced, they still require significant grinding and cubes definitely cause more incisor wear because chins must pry flakes loose from the compressed cube. Hay cubes are practically mess-free, especially with a wire bottom cage where any small, unconsumed bits easily fall through into the litter pan. Hay cubes have less dust than loose hay, making them less of an allergy irritant. There may appear to be less waste with hay cubes than with loose hay, but if allowed to choose between, most chins will prefer to eat the unprocessed loose hay and let their hay cube go to waste. We have yet to see the perfect hay manger for loose hay, inevitably if a chin can pull hay out at all then he soon has most of it pulled out and scattered about his cage, necessitating more diligent cleanup by his chinparent. But that's ok, because loose hay has some key advantages over hay cubes that make it worthwhile. As previously noted, chinchillas usually prefer the unprocessed loose hay when given a choice, and with loose hay there is also a greater selection of hay types to choose from. Providing a variety of hays can keep hay consumption at peak levels because the chin stays interested in eating his hay. When storing loose hay or hay cubes, push the air out of the bag or container but DO leave it slightly vented for continued minimum air circulation. Hay has some inherent moisture and if kept in an air-tight or tightly sealed container it can mold. Place container in a dry, cool place with no exposure to dampness, direct sunlight or potential contamination of any kind.
Additional Articles and Guaranteed Analysis Charts Alfalfa hay, forage quality terms and definitions (.pdf) About hay quality and understanding the feed value of hay Herbal Hay About hays, grass and legume Cevalo Riding Academy Article on hay's nutritional composition and fiber content Azure Chinchillas Good Quality Hay (when chins "won't eat hay...") by Azure Chinchillas for Chinformative Forum Haying FAQ Sheep's Creek Farm Nutritional Value of Hay hobbyfarms.com Guaranteed analysis for loose hay: American Pet Diner, Oxbow Guaranteed analysis for hay cubes: drsfostersmith.com, Assurance Feed Charts with nutritional content, including calcium, in hay: several articles (.doc), guinealynx.com (.doc), caf.wvu.edu CA Chins: What to Look for in Hay, How To Choose GOOD Hay (.pdf), Making Hay While the Sun Doesn't Shine (Additives Used To Preserve Hay) (.pdf), Grass Is Always Green, But Your Hay Might Not Be (.pdf) PELLETS, A DIETARY STAPLE OF DOMESTIC CHINCHILLAS (pellet brand analysis, see suppliers) Chinchillas normally consume about 1-2 tablespoons of pellets a day but this does NOT mean that pellets should be rationed or limited! The dietary staples of fresh, high quality pellets, hay and distilled or filtered water should ALWAYS be available for consumption; chinchillas will not overeat of their dietary staples, only treats.
There has been the suggestion that pellets should be rationed in order to compel the chin to eat more hay, the reasoning behind this is that there would be greater benefit to digestive and dental health if the chin consumed more roughage than pelleted "soft food." But that reasoning doesn't take into account the nutritional aspect, the contribution that pellets make to providing needed vitamins, minerals and protein. Also, when both pellets and hay are offered in unlimited quantities, chinchillas generally show a stronger preference for hay anyway, provided that the hay is appealing in its quality and freshness, and especially when a variety is offered in order to maintain interest and supply greater nutritional benefit. Although there have been no nutritional studies conducted on chinchillas in captivity to date to determine what the chinchilla's definite nutritional requirements are (pellets today seem to have simply evolved from rancher trial-and-error), what we do know for certain from understanding the chinchilla's diet in the wild is that chinchilla pellets need to be high in fiber to meet their nutritional and digestive needs (hay also makes a vital contribution to dietary fiber). Fiber should be the highest nutritional percentage, at least 16%, preferably 18% or higher (that number was provided by two exotics specialist vets). Protein should be the second nutritional percentage and slightly less than the fiber content. Most pellets are alfalfa-based and vitamin/mineral content vary across brands. Pellet brands with a nutritional percentage of less than 16% fiber are insufficient. Animal ingredients or by-products should never be present in the ingredients listing. Pellets manufactured and intended for other species (birds, gerbils, etc.) are not nutritionally suitable for chinchillas, liver disease and malnutrition can result from feeding inappropriate diets. Feeding pellet mixes with "treat" bits in them as a daily diet is ill-advised, it encourages a poor diet and wastefulness because chinchillas are selective feeders and they will either pick through or dig out the mix in pursuit of the more tasty (not necessarily the most nutritious) morsels. However, pellet mixes can be periodically offered in a separate bowl as a treat (see: Chinchillas Unlimited). 
Chinchillas eat and gnaw by grasping
and positioning the item with their front paws, which they use much
the same way people use their hands. Always
keep edibles on the top level of the cage,
where they are most likely to stay clean and clear of droppings and
urine. Pellets should be offered in a bowl made of non-hazardous
material such as stainless steel or ceramic, DO NOT USE plastic
or a J-Type
feeder, these can lethal!In order to prevent rapid decay or mold, pellets should be stored in a sealed container in a dry, cool place with no exposure to dampness, direct sunlight or potential contamination of any kind. Bear in mind that without refridgeration, pellets will lose their nutritional value more quickly and should be entirely consumed within a few weeks from date of purchase. Cold food, contrary to rare myth, does not cause "fits." When storing pellets in a dry, cool place instead of refridgerating, it would be wise to purchase fresh pellets in small amounts each time to ensure that they're consumed while their nutritional value is at its peak. To make your chin's pellets more palatable, dust them with rose hips powder. When offering fresh pellets in the evening, just put some rose hips powder on top and mix the powder and pellets together right in the chin's bowl (be sure you've washed and dried your hands well, first). Rose hips powder is available at health food stores and from suppliers that stock herbs, such as Mountain Rose Herbs. This adds a sweet taste to their pellets that chins just love, without adding sugar to their diet. Rose hips are high in vitamin C, and it is strongly recommended that chins get additional vitamin C (they can't get "too much" vitamin C, excess is eliminated through urine, not stored) in their diet because it helps prevent dental disease by strengthening the connective tissue which holds the chin's open-rooted teeth in place. When changing pellet brands do so gradually, mixing in some of the previous feed (pellets) in decreasing amounts over the course of about a week. A slow change allows the chinchilla's sensitive digestive system time to adjust, gut upset is a chief cause of diarrhea. Always discontinue treats when introducing a dietary change, you can resume when the changeover is complete. If you are transferring the chin from a bad diet to a good one the change is absolutely necessary and you must see to it that the changeover successfully takes place. Be aware that a chin's initial reaction to change or the unfamiliar is typically one of reluctance or distrust. This is often mistakenly perceived as the chin rejecting the new in preference of the old, but the initial reaction is not a gauge of the chin's likes and dislikes as much as it is a demonstration of the fact that chins simply need time to adjust to something different. So don't be surprised if your chin initially refuses to eat the new pellet or selectively eats only his previous pellets during the initial phase of the changeover, this is a common reaction. Once the changeover is complete if the chin is still not eating the new pellets leave only the new pellets in his dish and once he realizes that you will not tempt him with treats or return the old pellets he WILL start eating the new pellets within a day or two, watch and allow him to do so in his own time. He will NOT "starve himself" or go into GI stasis in the meantime, a chin that is physically capable of eating will do so when he's ready. Chinchillas can safely go up to 24 hours (this is historically and medically verifiable; a state of stress either mentally or physically may put a chin temporarily off his food) without food barring other complications, but the dietary staples of fresh, high quality pellets, hay and distilled or filtered water should ALWAYS be available for consumption; chinchillas will not overeat of their dietary staples, only treats. If your chinchilla refuses to eat for ANY reason for more than a day, take him to your exotics specialist vet for a thorough examination. Pellet Brand Analysis Because we're often asked, our opinion is that the top U.S. pellets are Oxbow Chinchilla Deluxe and Kline Diet. Criteria for judging pellet value and the type of pellets to strictly avoid (pellet mixes, pellets made for other animals, etc.) are discussed in the previous section. NOTE: The manufacturer's online information may be more up-to-date than what the sites below report, also, check product ingredients/ analysis from time to time because they ARE subject to change! Cheeky Chinchillas: Charnwoods, Science Selective Chinchilla, Beaphar Care +, Henry Bell, Argo CHINformation Organization: Kaytee Fiesta, Kaytee Timothy Complete Chins & Quills: Mazuri, Kline Diet & Supplement, 8in1 Ultra Blend Select, Charlie Chinchilla, Sunseed, Oxbow, Rancher's Choice, Tradition Chinchilla Pellets, Kaytee Forti-Diet Chinchilla Pellets, American Pet Diner (APD) Timmy Pellet, L/M Animal Farms Vita Vittles Gold Total Diet for Chinchillas, Vitakraft Vita Special, American Pet Diner (APD) Alffy Pellets, Brisky’s Chinchilla Food, Exotic Nutrition Chinchilla Diet with Rosehips, L’Avian Plus Chinchilla Pellets Greenwood Chinchillas: Charnwood, Duggins, Harrisons, Pets At Home (Made By Henry Bell & Co (Grantham) Ltd.), Ridgeway Feeds TREATS VS. HEALTH HAZARDS (healthiest treats, hazards) Also see: Don't Kill Your Chin With "Kindness" and Chinchilla Cymru for fat and sugar content in treats From our and other's years of rescue experience and observation, chinchillas DO NOT gain weight when excess fat and sugar is added to their diet, it just eventually leads to serious health damage. In fact, weight LOSS can result from overindulging a chin in sugary or fatty treats, because a chin will eat less of his dietary staples (chinchillas are selective feeders and this is a chief cause of malnutrition) so he can get more treats, this eventually leads to his becoming significantly underweight and fur-bitten (from the stress of malnutrition). Excessive protein will cause weight gain, but at the expense of overworking and potentially damaging the liver. If your think your chinchilla is underweight and you're desperate to help him, read through the precautions of Handfeeding and Formulas first and then consult the complete diets and supplementary items listed there that will make a viable nutritious contribution. The chinchilla GI tract is made to handle the sparse, fibrous plant material found in the chinchilla's native habitat, it's not equipped for foods rich in fat, sugar or very high in protein. Never free-feed your chin sugary or fatty treats, over time this will cause health problems that lead to premature death. Unless treat intake is strictly monitored it can cause: diarrhea, severe digestive distress, seizures, bloat, malnutrition, liver damage (Hepatic Lipidosis), pancreatitis, tooth decay, malocclusion (soft food does not keep tooth overgrowth in check the way that hay does) and the following: "Diets high in sugars or protein or low in fiber may cause changes in the fermentation process in the cecum, leading to changes in pH and motility, which in turn lead to enteritis." (ref- All Creatures Animal Hospital) "Predisposing factors [for Lower Gastrointestinal Disease] include abrupt diet change, inappropriate antibiotic use, overcrowding and stress, and diets too low in fiber, and too high in fat and protein." (ref- Heidi L. Hoefer, DVM, DABVP) Remember that your chin's dietary staples, the only consumables he actually needs, are: unlimited access to fresh, high quality pellets, hay and distilled or filtered water, nothing more. Chinchillas won't overconsume their dietary staples, but they WILL overconsume treats. Chinchilla stomachs are VERY small, what seems like a small amount to us (especially when they beg... "just one more!") is actually a LOT for them and the more treats they consume, the less room they have for the dietary staples their body requires for vitality and good health. Chinchillas are notorious beggars and they will EAGERLY overeat treats to the point of making themselves sick or inducing the health problems stated above, so it's up to the caring chinparent to show willpower and restraint in the best interests of their pet's health and longevity. Just look in the mirror and say to yourself, slowly, "I am not a treat dispenser, I am not ..." =) Your pet chinchilla expects you, the dominant species in his environment, to set expectations, and if you give your chin a treat whenever he begs, then YOU are conditioning him to continually beg, and he will beg whenever he sees you, right on cue. Chins don't always HAVE to get a treat when they beg, in fact, a chin may actually be begging for another reason, because his water bottle isn't working, because he's low on food, because he's bored and wants attention and chin scratches or out-of-cage playtime, etc. Once it's been ascertained that the chin doesn't need anything supplied or fixed, then it's fine to offer him something besides a treat when he begs, something (exercise, attention) else that's better for him, and he'll have to settle for that. Chinchillas will also consume things that are clearly not safe or good for them at all (potato chips, lead paint, etc.). Just because your chin is begging for or shows interest in eating something (perhaps something that you're eating) doesn't mean that he should be allowed to try it. Wild animals can trust their instincts when they're in the wild, they know what to eat and what not to eat in their natural habitat, but this does not transfer once the animal is living in captivity. It's a common myth that pets will instinctually "know" if they should have something or not when in fact, they won't. Always keep edibles on the top level of the cage, where they are most likely to stay clean and clear of droppings and urine. Many treats (dried fruits such as raisins, nuts, seeds, etc.) require refridgeration to preserve their optimum freshness and nutritional value, and to prevent rapid decay or mold. Cold food, contrary to rare myth, does not cause fits. If the treat can be stored without refridgeration, be sure that it is stored in a dry, cool place with no exposure to dampness, direct sunlight or potential contamination of any kind. Although amounts are given in the treat descriptions below, it must be understood that a chin should receive no more than JUST ONE TREAT PER DAY (not one of each type...). And NO TREATS for chins that are ill or that have diarrhea or soft/ mushy droppings. They need all the dietary staples (fresh pellets, hay) they are able to consume and treats can exacerbate their condition. It's also best to withhold treats for a few days after recovery as a precaution against recurrence. Healthiest Treats 
HerbsHerbs can be offered in amounts of about 1-2 teaspoons, 3-4 times a week. Some suggested suppliers, search for more: Bunny Bunch Boutique, Chinchillas2Shop (UK), Chinchillas4Life (UK), Chinchilla City, Flower Town Chinchillas, Forever Feisty Chinchilla, Galen's Garden, Herbal Hay (UK), Ontario Chinchilla Association, Petmart (New Zealand), R&J Chinchilla Rescue (UK), Vitakraft Chinchilla Herb Stick by Pet Discounters.com 
GrainsGrains (barley, bran, oats, wheat, etc.) or a "supplemental" grains mix can be offered in moderate amounts of about 1-2 teaspoons, 2-3 times a week. Be cautious about some grains mixes, they may contain hazards (nuts, seeds) that should be fed very sparingly, if at all. When serving soft grains (oats, wheat germ, wheat or barley flakes, etc.), it is important to ensure that there is enough fibrous roughage in the chin's diet (unlimited hay) because pellets are also "soft food" and it takes sufficient roughage to keep things moving along the chin's GI tract. Unsweetened Wheat 'N Bran mini Shredded Wheat biscuits can be used as treats instead of raisins, an advantage to this is that the biscuits provide some fiber and don't have the concentrated sugar found in dried fruits. Half of a biscuit once a day or a whole biscuit 2-3 times a week is sufficient. Grain hays (oat, wheat, barley, etc.) can be offered occassionally. !! Be advised when serving grains that they are quite high in phosphorus and may sometimes have an inverted calcium:phosphorus ratio. A diet too high in phosphorus will cause calcium deficiency, which can lead to environmental malocclusion (ref). This is why grains (e.g., grain hays, supplemental grain mixes, cereal or uncooked pasta) must be offered IN MODERATION, as previously denoted. Chins that are frequently fed grains, especially in significant quantity (e.g., a chin that gets half an unsweetened Wheat 'N Bran mini Shredded Wheat biscuit daily, or a chin that is regularly fed a grains mix and then gets grain hays), should receive more alfalfa hay (high in calcium) or additional calcium from sources such as calcium chews or cuttlebone. The reason that ranchers and pet breeders have used supplemental grain mixes for years without a problem is that they typically give their breeding stock a calcium supplement or feed alfalfa as their primary hay. Vitamins
and MineralsEVERY chin should receive additional vitamin C because it strengthens the connective tissue around their open-rooted teeth, and chewable vitamin C tablets every other day can be served as a treat. Chins that are calcium deficient or pregnant/ nursing should have access to additional calcium, per calcium sources. When supplementing a chin in need of extra vitamins/ minerals, such as an ailing, malnourished or pregnant/ nursing chin, always check hay and pellet analysis first to see what they're already getting, don't overdo it. Vitamin and mineral pellets (Calf Manna, Total Enhancer, Animax) can be beneficial, but they should be limited to 1-2 pellets given 2-3 times a week at most on a temporary basis, do not overfeed, these are high in protein and a lot of extra protein can cause liver disease. Our exotics specialist vet recommends only occassional access (1-2 times a week) to mineral wheels, stones or blocks (attach to cage with wire, not plastic), see Quick Links for vitamin and mineral suppliers. Health Hazards, Both Potential and Dire This list isn't all-inclusive. Chinchillas are curious and will attempt to explore their environment by taste, you MUST supervise what they come into contact with and could potentially gnaw or consume. Also see: Chewing Hazards, Chinchilla Cymru about fat and sugar content in treats, Human Foods that Poison Pets and AVMA Guide to Poisons. Never free-feed of these treats, not if the chin is begging like crazy, not to help them "gain weight," etc., because too many of these treats, especially over a long period of time, WILL lead to dire health consequences. If you think your chin needs to gain weight, first read "Don't Kill Your Chin With 'Kindness!" and then see the Handfeeding section. 
Anything with Animal Ingredients or By-ProductsExcept for the (possible) occasional insect in their native habitat, chinchillas are strictly vegetarian and they should not have ANY treat with animal ingredients/ by-products.
Cereals or Uncooked PastaDO NOT give your chin sugar or honey-coated cereals at all; honey can cause gas and that leads to bloat, which can be fatal. Many cereals that are not coated in sugar nonetheless contain too much sugar and this can cause bloodsugar-related seizures. Human-grade cereals (unsweetened Wheat 'N Bran mini Shredded Wheat biscuits, puffed cereals like Kashi 7 Whole Grain Puffs) that are not coated in and that don't contain much sugar should be limited to one piece 2-3 times a week. Uncooked pasta adds unnecessary starch and carbohydrates to the chin's diet but can be given in small pieces a couple times a week. Read the warning that goes with feeding grains.
Chinchilla Treat or Pellet "Mixes" Mixes that contain treat bits and dried fruit, vegetables, nuts or seeds should be avoided except as an occassional treat, a couple teaspoons 2-3 time a week offered in a separate dish. Pellet mixes as a daily diet can lead to malnutrition and waste because chinchillas will dig out the treat bits and ignore the pellets, also, some of the ingredients in pellet mixes can cause digestive upset or bloat.
ChocolateNEVER let your chin near chocolate, it is dangerous for animals in general and can cause damage to both the digestive and nervous systems. (ref- snopes.com, petalia.com, avma.org)
CornExcept as a binder in feed, corn is prone to mold and fungus in the manufacturing & storing process, not to mention being a contributor to bloat; corn should be altogether avoided and removed if present in any pellet mix given as an occassional treat.
FruitNote that although the wood of some trees may be toxic, that warning doesn't necessarily transfer to the fruit of the tree. Fresh (small piece of banana, apple, grape, strawberry, etc.) or dried (small piece of apricot, cranberry, cherry, peach, raisin, prune, fig, etc.) fruit can be given in small quantities, 2-3 times a week, at most. Due to the high sugar content, (especially with dried fruit, the drying process condenses sugar content) fruit is not recommended for daily consumption. Too much sugar in a chin's diet can cause a bloodsugar imbalance during exercise time and lead to seizures, diabetes, tooth decay and other problems. Be especially sure when feeding dried fruit that it isn't sweetened, that it contains no ADDED sugar! (e.g., cranberries often do) See Chinchilla Cymru for more information on dried fruit as treats as well as dried fruit nutrition analysis, the latter is also featured on these sites: dietbites.com, nutritiondata.com, wholefoodsmarket.com. Note that serving size/ number in these nutritional anaylses is usually large/ high. A note about fruit drying: "Vitamin C is one nutrient that is destroyed by heat. Pretreating food with citrus juice can help increase the vitamin C content of the dried food." (ref- cdc.gov) "The more common reason that dried fruits will usually have more calories and sugar is because the dehydration process removes so much of the water normally found in the fruit. That missing water would normally make the fresh fruit larger than the dried fruit, so there would be more pieces of dried fruit in the same serving size. For example, one grape has seven calories and one raisin has seven calories, however one cup of grapes has about 60 calories, and a cup of raisins has over 400 calories. This doesn't happen because the raisin company added sugar, it happened because without the water, the raisins take up a lot less space. More raisins fit into one cup so that means one cup of raisins has more sugar and calories than grapes. The sugar listed on the nutrient facts label on dried fruit packages is not table sugar, unless it is listed as an added sugar. The sugar in dried fruit is fructose and glucose, the sugars that are naturally found in the fruit. Make sure to read labels before you buy the dried fruits, the ingredient list on the package will state whether sugar is added or not." (ref- nutrition.about.com)
Nuts and SeedsNote that although the wood of some trees may be toxic, that warning doesn't necessarily transfer to the nuts of the tree. Nuts and seeds contain fat and oils that can accumulate and lead to liver damage (Hepatic Lipidosis) or pancreatitis. These treats should be given VERY sparingly if at all, a small piece of nut or one seed once, maybe twice a week at very most. See Chinchilla Cymru article for details.
Protein, in excessive amountsVitamin and mineral pellets (Calf Manna, Total Enhancer, Animax) can be beneficial, especially to pregnant/ nursing, malnourished or ailing chins, but they should be limited to 1-2 pellets given 2-3 times a week at most on a temporary basis, do not overfeed, these are high in protein and a lot of extra protein can cause liver disease.
Vegetables or "Greens"With the exception of a small piece of fresh carrot that can be fed 2-3 times a week, NEVER feed a chin FRESH produce because that will make him vulnerable to bloat and bloat can be fatal! Chinchillas are NOT like guinea pigs and rabbits in this way, they do not need fresh vegetables in their diet, pellets and hay are the only dietary staples they need and adding fresh vegetables can actually be detrimental due to chins' sensitivity to bloat. It is best to avoid the major bloat-inducing veggies whether they are in fresh OR dried form: peas, cabbage, corn, lettuce, broccoli and spinach. Dried vegetables such as pumpkin, potato, squash and sweet potato are acceptable if offered in small pieces 2-3 times a week, at most. WHY DISTILLED OR FILTERED WATER IS BEST NEVER use a water bowl, the contamination and spill potential in a chinchilla's cage is too great for that, instead use a water bottle and keep it out of direct sunlight. In fact, the chin's cage should be positioned out of direct sunlight, anyway. The water bottle must be thoroughly cleaned (preferably by dishwasher) at least once weekly, and it should be refilled daily with cold, distilled or filtered water. Position the bottle on the bottom level of the cage (but not in a pee corner) so that any drips will go straight into the litter pan. It's important to keep a backup water bottle on hand because ANY water bottle design (Water Buddy, Oasis, etc.) can potentially fail at the spout or drinking end, curtailing your chin's access to water. Check the water level daily during water bottle refill time and if the water level has not changed from the day before, then check the spout to see if it is working correctly. If not, give your chin his backup water bottle immediately while you put the malfunctioning bottle through a dishwasher cycle. Test it afterward, if the problem hasn't cleared the chin will need another water bottle to replace that one. If you have two chins in a cage and the water bottle had failed and left them without water, they'll compete for water when they get it and this can cause cagemate conflicts. It's best to have two backup water bottles in this case so that they can quench their thirst without problem until their regular water bottle (or a replacement) has been returned. If a water bottle empties too quickly the spout may be leaking or the chin may have chewed at the bottle and made a hole. However, it's unusual for a chin to chew at his water bottle when it's working reliably, doesn't sometimes run out of water, and when he has distractions to keep him occupied such as: a large cage to accomodate running and playing, a variety of chew toys, at least one hideaway per chin and a cage wheel to help decrease stress and boredom inside the cage and TV during waking hours when he isn't actively engaged in out-of-cage exercise and interaction. If you start adding liquid vitamins (see: Supplier Sites) to your chin's distilled or filtered water, or when you initially switch to distilled or filtered water, it may take him a bit of time to adjust because he can tell there's "something different" and it's typical for chins to be initially suspicious of change or the unfamiliar. Chins CAN safely go up to 24 hours (this is historically and medically verifiable) without water barring other complications, but if at the end of that time he is still reluctant to drink, entice him by adding some cranberry juice or flavored pedialyte to the water, up to about 20% of the water bottle's contents. He should start drinking within 24 hours of the change but if he doesn't, give him a bottle of what he's used to and see if he uses that. If not, then there's something else wrong and he should be taken to your exotics specialist vet as soon as possible. The business priorities on a pelting ranch (minimize cost and effort, maximize personal gain) may have led to this statement on the MCBA website, "DO NOT USE distilled water on your animals. The nutrients which have been removed are important in maintaining a healthy animal." But in reality, ordinary tap water is NOT enriched with "nutrients," it's only cheap and easy to provide. If trace minerals are what was intended by that quote, this does have some relevance, "the mineral content of water reflects the nature of the geologic formation with which the water has been in contact. The most abundant minerals dissolved in water are salts of calcium, magnesium, strontium, ferrous iron, and manganese." (ref- Mad Sci Network) However, "Whether the minerals in water are beneficial or useless has been an ongoing debate. All of our minerals are derived from our food: fresh fruits, vegetables, meat, poultry, grains, nuts, and dairy products. The minerals in water are so scant that in Boston, MA for example, one would have to drink 676 8-ounce glasses of tap water to obtain the Recommended Daily Allowance ( RDA) of calcium. That person would have to drink 1,848 8-ounce glasses to get RDA of magnesium, 848 8-ounce glasses to get RDA of iron, and 168,960 8-ounce glasses to obtain the RDA of phosphorus." -and- "Over 95% of our minerals come from our food and less than 5% from drinking water. You would practically have to drown yourself by drinking it to get the RDA of any beneficial minerals." (ref- durastill.com) Any tiny advantage gained from the trace minerals in ordinary tap water is eclipsed by the serious and potentially dangerous problems associated with it:
Chlorination"Chlorine has been the most widely used disinfectant in the U.S. for over 60 years (1) and is the primary disinfectant for drinking water in the world." (ref- extoxnet.orst.edu) Articles: darwin.bio.uci.edu, pure-earth.com, selene.com, chlorinated water effect on pets- naturalrearing.com
FlouridationCommon to U.S. city water systems, "flouride IS a poison" according to wholywater.com. Well water may not have flouridation but it does have a greater risk of parasites, read below. Articles: all-natural.com, emporium.turnpike.net, fluoridealert.org, holisticmed.com
Routine contaminants: chemical pollution, lead, pesticides, etc.,
also true for well water- cdc.govArticles: aquamd.com, aquasana.com, healingdaily.com, nrdc.org, .pdf by biosci.usc.edu, waterwarning.com Outbreaks:
e. coli (Walkerton),
Cryptosporidium parasite (Milwaukee),
Giardia (.pdf,
cdc.gov)Articles: arar.essortment.com, cdc.gov, chem.duke.edu, epa.gov, universalwater.net, waterquality.crc.org.au If you want to supplement your chin's diet with additional minerals, you can do so without jeopardizing his health! We need to provide our chins with the purest AND safest water, and if mineral supplementation is desired in addition to what chinchilla pellets already provide, it can be obtained from suppliers who offer clean, safe sources, see vitamins and minerals section under Quick Links. "Water is, of course, a fundamental necessity for the domestic chinchilla. Although city drinking water is adequate for chinchillas, excessive chlorine can be very dangerous. If tap water has a strong disinfectant smell... filtered water should be offered. Water from natural sources is preferable to chlorinated drinking water." (ref- petcarevabeach.com) "Fresh water should always be available. Tap water in most large cities should probably be boiled because of the chlorine content." (ref- New Hope Animal Hospital) The problems- chlorination, contaminants, parasites, etc.- with tap water are magnified, more intense and detrimental for a chinchilla than for an average healthy person; chins are more vulnerable just as people with weakened immune systems are. Bottled water doesn't (ref- bottledwaterblues.com, nrdc.org- 1, 2) necessarily guarantee safety and purity any better than tap water, but distilled water (about distilled- durastill.com, facts and myths- .doc or getalife.net.au, www.drdavidwilliams.com, energiseforlife.com) and filtered water do (ref- epa.gov, cdc.gov, drlam.com, consumersearch.com, waterfiltercomparisons.com). It's true that distillation and some filters remove the tap water's trace minerals, but the negligible amount of minerals in tap water simply doesn't justify the health risks. "Among the debate about distilled water, you will find some arguments against it. During the distillation process, bacteria is removed from the water, but so are the minerals. The debate centers around the benefits of minerals in water, if the small amounts make a difference or not. This leads to the myth that distilling water leeches minerals from your body, when in fact people misunderstand the way distillation of water works within the body. It actually works by aiding the blood and lymph systems to carry any unused minerals in the body to the elimination systems. Part of the way all natural water works in the system is to wash out impurities and any substances that the body doesn't need." (quote- water-purification-filters.com, ref- Life Extension forum) HANDFEEDING AND FORMULAS (articles, formulas: complete diets, supplementary) For handfeeding KITS, see Responsible Breeding A chin may stop eating for a variety of reasons: dental problems, medication, illness, environmental stress, an injury or an operation like neutering (see stress-reducing measures in the "Recovery Period" section of that article). Sometimes recuperation causes a chin to eat less because he is not as active as usual or is temporarily not feeling up to par. Handfeeding should be an attempt to supply nourishment, not to get a chin to just "eat anything," see Treats vs. Health Hazards. Warnings: Handfeeding introduces an abrupt dietary change, which is a system shock for a chin that may already be ill or stressed. DON'T undertake this as a result of notoriously erroneous forum advice or without first consulting your exotics specialist vet, it could induce potentially lethal digestive distress into an otherwise manageable problem! See "Don't Kill Your Chin With 'Kindness!" for guidelines about when to begin handfeeding. Prolonged handfeeding can lead to or worsen a case of malocclusion (in the sense of tooth overgrowth), because the consumption of course, high-fiber hay is necessary to prevent molar overgrowth. When a chin is significantly underweight or severely fur-bitten, he is more vulnerable to cold and drafts. Put a sheet around his cage (as described on Routines) and provide some cloth (a baby blanket of fleece in his house, a hammock, Cuddl-E-Cup with strap cut off, Comf-E-Cube, Chilla Pilla with The Day Bed) in his cage so that he can retain body heat, it's also a comforting convenience. In cold weather climates it may also be adviseable to provide a heated bed (such as Lectro Small Animal Heated Pad), which can be placed inside a pillowcase for the chin to sit on and stay warm. We've noted that chins with significant weight loss or fur loss are attracted to heater vents during playtime, this is because of loss of body heat. As long as the chin is able to move off the heated bed at will, there is no danger of him overheating himself. Important: Some of the suggested formulas (not intended as a complete or promoted list of formulas or suppliers) below allow the chin to consume on his own while others are intended for syringe or spoon feeding, in which case feedings should be done at least 2-3 times daily and the chin should be allowed to eat his fill. If the chin becomes messy in the course of feeding, take a warm, damp cloth and wipe him down in the affected areas, then dry thoroughly with a dry cloth and give dustbath (or Dustbath Massage) afterward. Additional Articles Nutritional First Aid, Probiotics and Prebiotics Azure Chinchillas Hand Feeding Chinchillas Cheeky Chinchillas Alternative treatment for chinchillas who go "off their food," to prevent bloat Davidson Chinchillas Don't Let the 'Cure' Kill Your Chinchilla Luv 'N Chins II Hand-rearing and Supplementation of Small Mammals Chris Strike VN,CGLI Suggested Formulas (complete diets, supplementary items) COMPLETE DIETS Complete diets are used in the event that the chin is unable to subsist entirely on their dietary staples, however, always keep fresh, high quality pellets, hay (in some circumstances it may be helpful to crumble hay from an alfalfa hay cube into a dish for easier consumption) and distilled or filtered water available for consumption in case the chin's condition begins to improve or if he is able to nibble at his pellets and hay. If a chin begins to lose weight on one complete diet formula, gradually switch to another over the course of a few days and discontinue treats until the change is complete. 
Complete Food
for Poorly Chins by CFPNP in the UK
Critical
Care by Oxbow, suppliers: Vetark
Professional (UK), Bunny
Bunch Boutique, Paradise
Chins
Ground pellets
mixed with distilled or filtered |