Also
see: Don't
Kill Your Chin With "Kindness!" and Environmental
Malocclusion: Calcium Deficiency
Chinchilla
nutrition is basic and straightforward, they DO NOT need vegetables
added to their diet the way that rabbits and guinea pigs do. When
chinchillas are fed unlimited amounts of fresh, high quality pellets
(manufactured
specifically for chinchillas) and
a variety of hays,
when they're given treats
very sparingly with an emphasis on what is healthier,
when they're supplemented with vitamin
C and given calcium
supplementing only when pregnant/ nursing or if they become calcium
deficient, then
this basic approach to diet and nutrition is, in our opinion which
comes as a result of considerable experience
and research,
the best course of action to pursue for optimum health.
Always introduce any dietary change slowly (see: Pellets)
and discontinue treats until the change is complete.
When adding something to their diet only add one new thing at a time;
for instance, let your chin's digestive system adjust to a new type
of hay
or treat
before introducing another.
Whenever
a chin has internal health
issues (pneumonia, digestive, etc.)
or dental
disease (including malocclusion), STOP all treats of a potentially
hazardous
(dried
fruit with its concentrated sugar,
nuts, seeds, etc.) nature
until it is certain the chin has fully recovered.
NUTRITION ARTICLES
Chinchilla
Coprophagy, or, more accurately, Cecotrophy: PetEducation.com
(also .doc), ChinchillAZ,
wikipedia.org
General
nutrition articles: Azure
Chinchillas, Chinchillas.com,
Chinchillas2Home,
Darren's
Chinchilla Haven, PCVH www
or .doc,
Picxiechins
J-Type feeders can
be lethal! ChinBin's
warning
Micronutrients, Hay, Pellet Mix, Vitamin Mixture, Other Feeds, see
"food": CA Chins
Supplimentary feeding Azure
Chinchillas
Treats, fat and sugar content:
Chinchilla Cymru
Vitamin
A linked to "yellow fat" and mixed
food warning Ebony Dragon Chinchillas

NUTRITION IN CAPTIVITY: APPROXIMATING
THE WILD DIET
(malnutrition, wild
diet and nutritional requirements)
Also
see:
Environmental
Malocclusion: Calcium Deficiency
(discusses problems with captive diet)
Malnutrition
This is, unfortunately, not an uncommon sight for those of us who
do chinchilla rescue and re-homing. We see it primarily in the chins
who come to us that are calcium deficient,
underweight or fur-chewed
(malnutrition causes stress).
Sometimes the reason for malnutrition is that the chin was fed very
poorly: only given feed
intended for other small animals, like rats or gerbils, or supplied
with excessive amounts of nuts, seeds, fruits, vegetables or cereals
(potential health hazards),
sometimes entirely in place of the dietary staples of pellets
and hay. Malnutrition can result in, among other things, seizures
caused by thiamine and calcium
deficiencies.
Selective feeding, however, is the chief cause of malnutrition.
This occurs when a chin is offered treats (or has a pellet mix
with treat bits in it, which can also detrimentally
increase fat and sugar intake) with enough frequency that he
voluntarily decreases his intake of dietary staples (hay,
pellets
and distilled or filtered water)
in preference of holding out for treats.
Chinchillas should not be free-fed treats for any reason, it is detrimental
to their health and will not achieve positive results with weight
gain, see Treats
vs. Health Hazards. When treats are offered,
they must be given in moderation, because although chinchillas
will NOT overeat of their dietary staples of pellets and hay, they
WILL overeat treats.
Malnutrition can take weeks, even months to overcome, see the next
section for nutritional requirements and suggestions, but in the meantime
a malnutritioned chin should not receive any treats that are potential
Health
Hazards.

Wild Diet and Nutritional Requirements
Also see: Two
Studies of the Wild Chinchilla Diet, and Plant Photos
To date there have been no scientifically confirmed nutritional studies
of chinchillas in captivity that would tell us what criteria constitutes
a nutritionally complete and balanced chinchilla diet. What we do
have to go on is a knowledge of what chinchillas eat in the wild
and the insight of veterinarians. From these sources it has been
deduced that the most nutritionally healthy
diet in captivity consists of unlimited access to
fresh, high quality hay
and pellets manufactured specifically for chinchillas.
UNlike rabbits and guinea pigs, chinchillas do NOT need fresh vegetables,
it will in fact predispose them to bloat,
which can be fatal.
Chinchillas will not overeat of their dietary staples of pellets and
hay, only treats,
which are not an essential dietary requirement and excessive amounts
of fat, sugar and protein can detrimentally
affect health. Vitamin
C supplementing is adviseable for the dental benefits it provides,
and chins actually regard chewable vitamin C tablets as "treats."
Due to the potential for parasites, chemicals and contaminants, chinchillas
should be given distilled or filtered water,
not tap water.
Pregnant/ nursing chins should always receive both vitamin
C and calcium
supplementing, their bodies are being depleted by the process of creating
and nourishing new life. Supplementing calcium in particular at that
critical time can prevent calcium deficiency
and malocclusion
from occurring in the mother or kits in the future.
Moderate amounts of additional protein
or vitamins/ minerals (see: Healthiest
Treats, and alfalfa hay is a good source of protein and calcium)
can be beneficial to ailing, malnourished or pregnant/ nursing
chins, but kits should never be supplemented directly as that can
be detrimental unless vet-advised.

Studies of the wild
chinchilla diet indicate that they are herbivores that require a high-fiber
diet:
"Overall, fibers made up most (greater than 66%)
of the diet in both years and in all seasons. These fibrous items
are extremely difficult to identify and may correspond to highly lignified
plant parts such as bark and woody stems of shrubs and of the succulent
agave-like bromeliad Puya berteroniana.
"Herbs and shrubs followed in importance in the chinchilla diet.
Identified succulents made up only a small fraction of the chinchilla
diet, and were eaten in a non-predictable way throughout the two years.
The same was true for seeds, the least represented food category in
the diet."
(ref-
.pdf, Seasonal Food Habits)
"Free-ranging chinchillas survived on a diet of grasses, cactus
fruit, leaves, and the bark of small shrubs and bushes. Captive chins
need a diet high in fiber to prevent enteric problems. The basic chinchilla
diet consists of a good quality grass hay (timothy) and a small
amount of chinchilla pellets. Because the diet must be high in fiber,
the sole feeding of pellets must be avoided."
(ref-
Heidi L. Hoefer, DVM, DABVP)
"By studying chinchillas in their natural environment, we know
that they eagerly seek out berries, herbs and cactus fruits as well
as high-fiber foods such as grasses and the bark of small shrubs and
bushes. In order for nutrients to be extracted, this diet requires
a large volume of food intake and prolonged chewing, both of which
are important factors in maintaining the chinchilla's gastrointestinal
and dental health."
(ref- Peter
G. Fisher, DVM, Pet Care Veterinary Hospital)

Proper nutrition, which includes hay,
can help prevent dental
problems in domestic chinchillas:
"The chinchilla has evolved in arid mountain conditions where
vegetation is fibrous and coarse, low in energy, and high in abrasive
silicates. Captive chinchillas are often fed a processed diet of pellets,
raisins, alfalfa and treats that require minimal chewing and are low
in abrasive phytoliths. This low-roughage diet dramatically reduces
tooth wear and is thought to be a major contributing factor in most
of the dental abnormalities seen in chinchillas. Offering a diet high
in "chew factor" like grass hay may help slow down the development
of dental disease in chinchillas."
(ref-
.pdf, AEMV Magazine)
"The chinchilla originates from an area of the Andes mountains
where vegetation is tough and fibrous and low in energy content. As
a result, a large amount of food is eaten and alot of chewing takes
place. This results in the normal wear of the cheek teeth which are
open rooted and grow continously to compensate for this wear."
(ref-
Heidi L. Hoefer, DVM, DABVP)
"Improper diets are responsible for many digestive disorders.
The chinchilla requires a diet that is high in fibre, with moderate
amounts of protein." (ref-
.doc, Richardson's "Diseases of Small Domestic Rodents")
"Chinchillas are herbivorous rodents with teeth that all grow
continuously. In captivity they are commonly affected by dental disease.
Since the range of dental disease occurring in wild chinchillas is
unknown, the dentition of museum specimens originally obtained from
the wild was assessed and compared with specimens prepared from captive
bred animals. Skulls from wild-caught chinchillas showed minimal evidence
of dental disease and the teeth were all short, cheek tooth lengths
averaging 5.9 mm. Cheek tooth lengths in zoo specimens (average 6.6
mm), clinically normal (average 7.4 mm) and captive bred animals with
dental disease (average 10 mm) were significantly elongated by comparison
(p < 0.0001). Captive bred specimens showed a wide range of tooth
related lesions.
"These results suggest that some aspect of captivity is responsible
for the development of dental disease in chinchillas. It is suggested
that the diet (its physical form and composition) is the main etiological
factor, and that provision of a diet closely matching that of wild
chinchillas should significantly reduce the incidence of dental disease
in captive chinchillas."
(ref-
"Skull size and cheek tooth lengths in wild and captive chinchilla
populations," by David A. Crossley and Maria del Mar Miguélez)

PROVIDE A VARIETY OF HAYS!
(additional
articles and guaranteed analysis charts, see
suppliers)
Also see: Reducing
the Allergic Impact of Hay and Dust, and The
Gastrointestinal System and GI Stasis
Hay is the domestic chin's substitute for the roughage they had
in the
wild, i.e., the "bark and woody stems of shrubs." The
contribution that hay makes to roughage and dietary fiber is essential
for maintaining good GI tract health (see
GI stasis article) in chinchillas. It is
absolutely vital that a chin never goes without his hay, and by providing
a variety of hays you will encourage your chin's interest in consuming
it while supplying him with greater nutritional benefit.
Grinding and chewing course hay also keeps constantly-growing teeth
filed down, preventing molar spurs and other dental
problems, like overgrowth and malocclusion. Although most chins aren't
extremely particular about the brand or distributor of hay as long
as it is of high quality, if your chinchilla isn't eating his hay
you need to switch to another brand or distributor until you find
one that he prefers.
The dietary staples of fresh, high quality pellets,
hay
and distilled or filtered water
should ALWAYS be available for consumption; chinchillas will not overeat
of their dietary staples, only treats.
Good hay will look clean, light and dry, be free of thorns, dampness
or mold and it will smell like it was just cut and dried in warm sunshine,
i.e., fresh and not musty. Always keep edibles on the top level of
the cage,
where they are most likely to stay clean and clear of droppings and
urine.
A non-breeding
pet chin's primary hay, for daily use, should be high in fiber and
low in protein;
grass hays in general (timothy, mountain grass, brome, orchard
grass, etc.) fit this description. The
basis for the old "high-fiber, low protein" guideline is
that most pellets were (and are still) alfalfa-based, and since
alfalfa (a legume hay) is a high-fiber, high protein hay, the
chin's pellets already supply sufficient protein. But even when alfalfa
pellets are fed, it is still adviseable to serve alfalfa hay occassionally
as part of a non-breeding pet chin's hay variety. Alfalfa hay is beneficial
because it is very nutrient rich, which is also the reason it should
be introduced slowly, to avoid soft/ mushy droppings.
If a chin is being fed a timothy-based pellet, then he should be served
alfalfa hay more regularly to ensure sufficient protein consumption.
Chins who are ailing, malnourished or pregnant/ nursing can benefit
from a moderate increase in protein,
vitamins/ minerals, and in those circumstances alfalfa hay (high
in fiber, protein and calcium) can be served as a primary hay.
Grain
hays (oat, wheat, barley, etc.) can be fed occassionally but
should not be used as a primary hay, read
the warning that goes with feeding grains.
The articles and guaranteed analysis charts section
provides additional information.
Sometimes a chin may have a slight sensitivity to hay,
especially if he's inhaled some small particles, in which case he
may make the nose-clearing
sound and wipe his nose. But be observant, as these symptoms can indicate
the onset of pneumonia
or other respiratory problems.
chinchillas2shop
in the UK has many types of loose hay and hay snacks (luciebix,
meadowbix) and as long as you introduce new hays slowly, your
chinchilla will be able to handle the variety offered by suppliers:
alfalfa, brome, bluegrass, lucerne, meadow grass, mountain grass,
oat, orchard grass, readigrass, wheat, timothy...
Regarding
hay cubes
and loose hay:
Hay cubes are chopped and compressed hay, they typically
come in timothy or alfalfa and both hay cubes and loose hay provide
a chin with his necessary nutritional fiber. If your chinchilla is
experiencing difficulty chewing due to dental problems, try crumbling
hay from a hay cube into a bowl for him to eat from. Cubes are also
ideal to put in a carrier
when shipping, transporting or travelling
with your chin. Loose hay may require more grinding from the molars
(which is a good
thing) because it isn't processed, but hay cubes (chopped hay)
aren't exactly minced, they still require significant grinding
and cubes definitely cause more incisor wear because chins must pry
flakes loose from the compressed cube.
Hay cubes are practically mess-free, especially with a wire bottom
cage where any small, unconsumed bits easily fall through into the
litter pan. Hay cubes have less dust than loose hay, making them less
of an allergy irritant. There may appear to be less waste with hay
cubes than with loose hay, but if allowed to choose between, most
chins will prefer to eat the unprocessed loose hay and let their hay
cube go to waste.
We have yet to see the perfect hay manger for loose hay, inevitably
if a chin can pull hay out at all then he soon has most of
it pulled out and scattered about his cage, necessitating more diligent
cleanup by his chinparent. But that's ok, because loose hay has some
key advantages over hay cubes that make it worthwhile. As previously
noted, chinchillas usually prefer the unprocessed loose hay when given
a choice, and with loose hay there is also a greater selection of
hay types to choose from. Providing a variety of hays can keep hay
consumption at peak levels because the chin stays interested in eating
his hay.
When storing loose hay or hay cubes, push the air out
of the bag or container but DO leave it slightly
vented for continued minimum air circulation. Hay has some
inherent moisture and if kept in an air-tight or tightly sealed container
it can mold. Place container in a dry, cool place with no exposure
to dampness, direct sunlight or potential contamination of any kind.
Additional Articles
and Guaranteed Analysis Charts
Alfalfa
hay, forage quality terms and definitions (.pdf)
About
hay quality and understanding
the feed value of hay Herbal Hay
About hays,
grass and legume Cevalo Riding Academy
Article
on hay's nutritional composition and fiber content Azure Chinchillas
Good
Quality Hay (when chins "won't eat hay...") by Azure
Chinchillas for Chinformative Forum
Haying FAQ
Sheep's Creek Farm
Nutritional
Value of Hay hobbyfarms.com
Guaranteed analysis for loose hay: American
Pet Diner, Oxbow
Guaranteed analysis for hay cubes: drsfostersmith.com,
Assurance Feed
Charts with nutritional content, including
calcium, in hay: several articles
(.doc), guinealynx.com (.doc),
caf.wvu.edu
CA Chins:
What to Look
for in Hay, How To Choose GOOD Hay (.pdf),
Making Hay While the Sun Doesn't Shine (Additives Used
To Preserve Hay) (.pdf),
Grass Is Always Green, But Your Hay Might Not
Be (.pdf)
PELLETS, A DIETARY STAPLE OF DOMESTIC
CHINCHILLAS
(pellet brand analysis,
see
suppliers)
Chinchillas normally consume about 1-2
tablespoons of pellets a day but this does NOT mean that pellets should
be rationed or limited!
The dietary staples of fresh, high quality pellets,
hay
and distilled or filtered water
should ALWAYS be available for consumption; chinchillas will not overeat
of their dietary staples, only treats.
There has been the suggestion that pellets should be rationed in order
to compel the chin to eat more hay, the reasoning behind this is that
there would be greater benefit to digestive
and dental
health if the chin consumed more roughage than pelleted "soft
food." But that reasoning doesn't take into account the nutritional
aspect, the contribution that pellets make to providing needed vitamins,
minerals and protein. Also, when both pellets and hay are offered
in unlimited quantities, chinchillas generally show a stronger preference
for hay anyway, provided that the hay is appealing in its quality
and freshness, and especially when a variety is offered in order to
maintain interest and supply greater nutritional benefit.
Although there have been no nutritional studies conducted on chinchillas
in captivity to date to determine what the chinchilla's definite nutritional
requirements are (pellets today seem to have simply evolved from
rancher trial-and-error), what we do know for certain from understanding
the chinchilla's diet
in the wild is that chinchilla pellets need to be high in fiber to
meet their nutritional and digestive needs (hay
also makes a vital contribution to dietary fiber). Fiber should
be the highest nutritional percentage, at least 16%, preferably 18%
or higher (that number was provided by two exotics specialist vets).
Protein should be the second nutritional percentage and slightly
less than the fiber content. Most pellets are alfalfa-based and vitamin/mineral
content vary across brands.
Pellet brands with a nutritional percentage of less than 16%
fiber are insufficient. Animal ingredients or by-products
should never be present in the ingredients listing. Pellets manufactured
and intended for other species (birds, gerbils, etc.) are not
nutritionally suitable for chinchillas, liver disease and malnutrition
can result from feeding inappropriate diets. Feeding pellet mixes
with "treat" bits in them as a daily diet is ill-advised,
it encourages a poor diet and wastefulness because chinchillas are
selective feeders and they will either pick through or dig out the
mix in pursuit of the more tasty (not necessarily the most nutritious)
morsels. However, pellet mixes can be periodically offered in a separate
bowl as a treat (see: Chinchillas
Unlimited).
Chinchillas eat and gnaw by grasping
and positioning the item with their front paws, which they use much
the same way people use their hands. Always
keep edibles on the top level of the cage,
where they are most likely to stay clean and clear of droppings and
urine. Pellets should be offered in a bowl made of non-hazardous
material such as stainless steel or ceramic, DO NOT USE plastic
or a J-Type
feeder, these can lethal!
In order to prevent rapid decay or mold, pellets should be stored
in a sealed container in a dry, cool place with no exposure to dampness,
direct sunlight or potential contamination of any kind. Bear in mind
that without refridgeration, pellets will lose their nutritional value
more quickly and should be entirely consumed within a few weeks from
date of purchase. Cold food, contrary to rare myth,
does not cause "fits."
When storing pellets in a dry, cool place instead of refridgerating,
it would be wise to purchase fresh pellets in small amounts each time
to ensure that they're consumed while their nutritional value is at
its peak.
To make your chin's pellets more palatable, dust them with rose
hips powder. When offering fresh pellets in the evening, just
put some rose hips powder on top and mix the powder and pellets together
right in the chin's bowl (be sure you've washed and dried your
hands well, first). Rose hips powder is available at health food
stores and from suppliers
that stock herbs, such as Mountain
Rose Herbs. This adds a sweet taste to their pellets that chins
just love, without adding sugar to their diet. Rose hips are high
in vitamin
C, and it is strongly recommended that chins get additional vitamin
C (they can't get "too much" vitamin C, excess is eliminated
through urine, not stored) in their diet because it helps prevent
dental disease by strengthening the connective tissue which holds
the chin's open-rooted teeth in place.
When changing pellet brands do so gradually, mixing in some of the
previous feed (pellets) in decreasing amounts over the course
of about a week. A slow change allows the chinchilla's sensitive digestive
system time to adjust, gut upset is a chief cause of diarrhea. Always
discontinue treats when introducing a dietary change, you can resume
when the changeover is complete.
If you are transferring the chin from a bad diet
to a good one the change is absolutely necessary and you must see
to it that the changeover successfully takes place.
Be aware that a chin's
initial reaction to change or the unfamiliar is typically one of reluctance
or distrust. This is often mistakenly perceived as the chin rejecting
the new in preference of the old, but the initial reaction
is not a gauge of the chin's likes and dislikes as much as it is a
demonstration of the fact that chins simply need time to adjust to
something different. So don't be surprised if your chin initially
refuses to eat the new pellet or selectively eats only his previous
pellets during the initial phase of the changeover, this is a common
reaction.
Once the changeover is complete if the chin is still not eating the
new pellets leave only the new pellets in his dish and once he realizes
that you will not tempt him with treats or return the old pellets
he WILL start eating the new pellets within a day or two, watch and
allow him to do so in his own time. He will NOT "starve himself"
or go into GI
stasis in the meantime, a chin that is physically capable of eating
will do so when he's ready. Chinchillas
can
safely go up to 24 hours (this
is historically and medically verifiable; a state of stress
either mentally or physically may put a chin temporarily off his food)
without food barring other complications, but
the dietary staples of fresh, high quality pellets,
hay
and distilled or filtered water
should ALWAYS be available for consumption; chinchillas will not overeat
of their dietary staples, only treats.
If your chinchilla refuses to
eat for ANY
reason for more than a day, take him to your exotics specialist vet
for a thorough examination.

Pellet Brand Analysis
Because we're
often asked, our opinion is that the top U.S. pellets are Oxbow Chinchilla
Deluxe and Kline Diet. Criteria for judging pellet value and the type
of pellets to strictly avoid (pellet
mixes, pellets made for other animals, etc.)
are discussed in the previous
section. NOTE: The manufacturer's online
information may be more up-to-date than what the sites below report,
also, check product ingredients/ analysis from time to time because
they ARE subject to change!
Cheeky Chinchillas:
Charnwoods, Science Selective Chinchilla, Beaphar Care +, Henry Bell,
Argo
CHINformation
Organization: Kaytee Fiesta, Kaytee Timothy Complete
Chins
& Quills: Mazuri, Kline Diet & Supplement, 8in1 Ultra Blend
Select, Charlie Chinchilla, Sunseed, Oxbow, Rancher's Choice, Tradition
Chinchilla Pellets, Kaytee Forti-Diet Chinchilla Pellets, American
Pet Diner (APD) Timmy Pellet, L/M Animal Farms Vita Vittles Gold Total
Diet for Chinchillas, Vitakraft Vita Special, American Pet Diner (APD)
Alffy Pellets, Brisky’s Chinchilla Food, Exotic Nutrition Chinchilla
Diet with Rosehips, L’Avian Plus Chinchilla Pellets
Greenwood
Chinchillas: Charnwood, Duggins, Harrisons, Pets At Home (Made
By Henry Bell & Co (Grantham) Ltd.), Ridgeway Feeds

TREATS VS. HEALTH HAZARDS
(healthiest
treats, hazards)
Also see: Don't
Kill Your Chin With "Kindness" and Chinchilla
Cymru for fat and sugar content in treats
From our and other's years of rescue experience
and observation, chinchillas DO NOT gain weight when excess fat and
sugar is added to their diet, it just eventually leads to serious
health damage. In fact, weight LOSS can result from overindulging
a chin in sugary or fatty treats, because a chin will eat less of
his dietary staples (chinchillas are selective feeders and this
is a chief cause of malnutrition)
so he can get more treats, this eventually leads to his becoming significantly
underweight and fur-bitten
(from the stress of malnutrition).
Excessive protein will cause weight gain, but at the expense of overworking
and potentially damaging the liver. If your think your chinchilla
is underweight and you're desperate to help him, read through the
precautions of Handfeeding
and Formulas first and then consult the complete diets and supplementary
items listed there that will make a viable nutritious contribution.
The chinchilla GI tract is made to handle the sparse,
fibrous plant material found in the chinchilla's native habitat,
it's not equipped for foods rich in fat, sugar or very high in protein.
Never free-feed your chin sugary or fatty treats, over time
this will cause health problems that lead to premature death. Unless
treat intake is strictly monitored it can cause: diarrhea, severe
digestive distress, seizures,
bloat,
malnutrition,
liver damage (Hepatic
Lipidosis), pancreatitis,
tooth decay, malocclusion
(soft food does not keep tooth overgrowth in check the way that hay
does) and the following:
"Diets high in sugars or protein or low in fiber may cause changes
in the fermentation process in the cecum, leading to changes in pH
and motility, which in turn lead to enteritis."
(ref-
All Creatures Animal Hospital)
"Predisposing factors [for Lower Gastrointestinal Disease] include
abrupt diet change, inappropriate antibiotic use, overcrowding and
stress, and diets too low in fiber, and too high in fat and protein."
(ref-
Heidi L. Hoefer, DVM, DABVP)
Remember that your chin's dietary staples, the only consumables
he actually needs, are: unlimited access to fresh, high quality pellets,
hay
and distilled or filtered water,
nothing more. Chinchillas won't overconsume their dietary staples,
but they WILL overconsume treats.
Chinchilla stomachs are VERY small, what seems like a small amount
to us (especially when they beg... "just one more!")
is actually a LOT for them and the more treats they consume, the less
room they have for the dietary staples their body requires for vitality
and good health. Chinchillas are notorious beggars
and they will EAGERLY overeat treats to the point of making themselves
sick or inducing the health problems stated above, so it's
up to the caring chinparent to show willpower and restraint in the
best interests of their pet's health and longevity. Just look in the
mirror and say to yourself, slowly, "I am not a treat dispenser,
I am not ..." =)
Your pet chinchilla expects you, the dominant species in his environment,
to set expectations,
and if you give your chin a treat whenever he begs, then YOU are conditioning
him to continually beg, and he will beg whenever he sees you, right
on cue. Chins don't always HAVE to get a treat when they beg, in fact,
a chin may actually be begging for another reason, because his water
bottle isn't working, because he's low on food, because he's bored
and wants attention and chin scratches
or out-of-cage playtime,
etc. Once it's been ascertained that the chin doesn't need anything
supplied or fixed, then it's fine to offer him
something besides a treat when he begs, something (exercise,
attention)
else that's better for him,
and he'll have to settle for that.
Chinchillas will also consume things that are clearly not safe or
good for them at all (potato chips, lead paint, etc.). Just
because your chin is begging for or shows interest in eating something
(perhaps something that you're eating) doesn't mean that he should
be allowed to try it. Wild animals can trust their instincts when
they're in the wild, they know what to eat and what not to eat in
their natural habitat, but this does not transfer once the animal
is living in captivity. It's a common myth
that pets will instinctually "know" if they should have
something or not when in fact, they won't.
Always keep edibles on the top level of the cage,
where they are most likely to stay clean and clear of droppings and
urine. Many treats (dried fruits such as raisins, nuts,
seeds, etc.) require refridgeration to preserve their optimum
freshness and nutritional value, and to prevent rapid decay or mold.
Cold food, contrary to rare myth,
does not cause fits. If the treat can be stored without refridgeration,
be sure that it is stored in a dry, cool place with no exposure to
dampness, direct sunlight or potential contamination of any kind.
Although amounts are given in the treat descriptions below, it must
be understood that a chin should receive no more than
JUST ONE TREAT PER DAY (not one of each type...). And NO TREATS
for chins that are ill or that have diarrhea or soft/ mushy droppings.
They need all the dietary staples (fresh pellets, hay) they
are able to consume and treats can exacerbate their condition. It's
also best to withhold treats for a few days after recovery as a precaution
against recurrence.

Healthiest Treats
Herbs
Herbs can be offered in amounts
of about 1-2 teaspoons, 3-4 times a week. Some suggested suppliers,
search
for more: Bunny
Bunch Boutique, Chinchillas2Shop
(UK), Chinchillas4Life
(UK), Chinchilla City,
Flower Town Chinchillas,
Forever
Feisty Chinchilla, Galen's
Garden, Herbal
Hay (UK), Ontario
Chinchilla Association, Petmart
(New Zealand),
R&J
Chinchilla Rescue (UK), Vitakraft
Chinchilla Herb Stick by Pet Discounters.com

Grains
Grains
(barley, bran, oats, wheat, etc.) or a "supplemental"
grains mix can be offered in moderate amounts of about 1-2 teaspoons,
2-3 times a week. Be cautious about some grains mixes, they may contain
hazards
(nuts, seeds) that should be fed very sparingly, if at all.
When serving soft grains (oats, wheat germ, wheat or barley flakes,
etc.), it is important to ensure that there is enough fibrous
roughage in the chin's diet (unlimited hay)
because pellets are also "soft food" and it takes sufficient roughage
to keep things moving along the chin's GI tract.
Unsweetened Wheat 'N Bran mini Shredded
Wheat biscuits can be used as treats instead of raisins,
an advantage to this is that the biscuits provide some fiber and don't
have the concentrated sugar found in dried fruits.
Half of a biscuit once a day or a whole biscuit 2-3 times a week is
sufficient. Grain
hays (oat, wheat, barley, etc.) can be offered occassionally.
!! Be advised
when serving grains that they are quite high in phosphorus and may
sometimes have an inverted calcium:phosphorus ratio.
A diet too high in phosphorus will cause calcium deficiency,
which can lead to environmental
malocclusion (ref).
This is why grains (e.g., grain
hays, supplemental grain mixes, cereal
or uncooked pasta) must be offered IN MODERATION, as previously
denoted. Chins that are frequently fed
grains, especially in significant quantity (e.g., a chin that gets
half an unsweetened Wheat 'N Bran mini Shredded
Wheat biscuit daily, or a chin that is regularly fed a grains
mix and then gets grain hays), should receive more alfalfa hay
(high in calcium) or additional calcium from sources
such as calcium chews or cuttlebone. The reason that ranchers and
pet breeders have used supplemental grain mixes for years without
a problem is that they typically give their breeding stock a calcium
supplement
or feed alfalfa as their primary hay.
Vitamins
and Minerals
EVERY chin should receive additional vitamin
C because it strengthens the connective tissue around their open-rooted
teeth, and chewable vitamin C tablets every other day can be served
as a treat. Chins that are calcium deficient or pregnant/ nursing
should have access to additional calcium,
per calcium sources.
When supplementing a chin in need
of extra vitamins/ minerals, such as an ailing, malnourished or pregnant/
nursing chin, always check hay
and pellet
analysis first to see what they're already getting, don't overdo it.
Vitamin and mineral pellets
(Calf Manna, Total Enhancer, Animax) can be beneficial, but
they should be limited to 1-2 pellets given 2-3 times a week at most
on a temporary basis, do not overfeed, these are high in protein
and a lot of extra protein can cause liver disease. Our exotics specialist
vet recommends
only occassional access (1-2 times a week) to mineral
wheels, stones or blocks (attach to cage with wire, not plastic),
see Quick
Links for vitamin and mineral suppliers.

Health Hazards, Both Potential
and Dire
This
list isn't all-inclusive. Chinchillas are curious and will attempt
to explore their environment by taste, you MUST supervise what they
come into contact with and could potentially gnaw or consume. Also
see: Chewing
Hazards, Chinchilla
Cymru about fat and sugar content in treats,
Human
Foods that Poison Pets and AVMA
Guide to Poisons.
Never free-feed of these treats, not if the chin is begging like crazy,
not to help them "gain weight,"
etc., because too many of these treats, especially over a long period
of time, WILL lead to dire health consequences.
If you think your chin needs to gain weight, first read
"Don't Kill Your Chin With 'Kindness!" and then see the
Handfeeding
section.
Anything with Animal Ingredients or By-Products
Except for the (possible) occasional insect in their native
habitat, chinchillas are strictly vegetarian and they should not have
ANY treat with animal ingredients/ by-products.
Cereals or Uncooked Pasta
DO NOT give your chin sugar or honey-coated cereals at all; honey
can cause gas and that leads to bloat,
which can be fatal. Many cereals that are not coated in sugar nonetheless
contain too much sugar
and this can cause bloodsugar-related seizures.
Human-grade cereals (unsweetened Wheat 'N Bran mini Shredded
Wheat biscuits, puffed cereals like Kashi
7 Whole Grain Puffs) that are not coated in and that don't contain
much sugar should be limited to one piece 2-3 times a week. Uncooked
pasta adds unnecessary starch and carbohydrates to the chin's diet
but can be given in small pieces a couple times a week. Read the warning
that goes with feeding grains.
Chinchilla Treat or Pellet "Mixes"
Mixes that contain treat bits and dried fruit, vegetables, nuts
or seeds should be avoided except as an occassional treat, a couple
teaspoons 2-3 time a week offered in a separate dish. Pellet mixes
as a daily diet can lead to malnutrition and waste because chinchillas
will dig out the treat bits and ignore the pellets, also, some of
the ingredients in pellet mixes can cause digestive upset or bloat.

Chocolate
NEVER let your chin near chocolate, it is dangerous for animals
in general and can cause damage to both the digestive and nervous
systems. (ref- snopes.com,
petalia.com,
avma.org)
Corn
Except as a binder in feed, corn is prone to mold and fungus
in the manufacturing & storing process, not to mention being a contributor
to bloat;
corn should be altogether avoided and removed if present in any pellet
mix given as an occassional treat.
Fruit
Note that although the wood of some trees may
be toxic, that warning doesn't necessarily transfer to the fruit
of the tree. Fresh (small piece of banana, apple, grape, strawberry,
etc.) or dried (small piece of apricot, cranberry,
cherry, peach, raisin, prune,
fig, etc.) fruit can be given
in small quantities, 2-3 times a week, at most.
Due to the high sugar content, (especially with dried fruit, the
drying process condenses sugar content) fruit is not recommended
for daily consumption. Too much sugar in a chin's diet can cause a
bloodsugar imbalance during exercise time and lead to seizures,
diabetes, tooth decay and other
problems. Be especially sure when feeding dried fruit that it isn't
sweetened, that it contains no ADDED sugar! (e.g., cranberries
often do)
See Chinchilla
Cymru for more information on dried fruit as treats as well as
dried fruit nutrition analysis, the latter is also featured on these
sites: dietbites.com,
nutritiondata.com, wholefoodsmarket.com.
Note that serving size/ number in these nutritional anaylses is usually
large/ high. A note about fruit drying: "Vitamin C is one nutrient
that is destroyed by heat. Pretreating food with citrus juice can
help increase the vitamin C content of the dried food." (ref-
cdc.gov)
"The more common reason that dried fruits will usually have more
calories and sugar is because the dehydration process removes so much
of the water normally found in the fruit. That missing water would
normally make the fresh fruit larger than the dried fruit, so there
would be more pieces of dried fruit in the same serving size. For
example, one grape has seven calories and one raisin has seven calories,
however one cup of grapes has about 60 calories, and a cup of raisins
has over 400 calories. This doesn't happen because the raisin company
added sugar, it happened because without the water, the raisins take
up a lot less space. More raisins fit into one cup so that means one
cup of raisins has more sugar and calories than grapes. The sugar
listed on the nutrient facts label on dried fruit packages is not
table sugar, unless it is listed as an added sugar. The sugar in dried
fruit is fructose and glucose, the sugars that are naturally found
in the fruit. Make sure to read labels before you buy the dried fruits,
the ingredient list on the package will state whether sugar is added
or not." (ref-
nutrition.about.com) 
Nuts and Seeds
Note that although the wood of some trees may
be toxic, that warning doesn't necessarily transfer to the nuts
of the tree. Nuts and seeds contain fat and oils that can accumulate
and lead to liver damage (Hepatic
Lipidosis) or pancreatitis.
These treats should be given VERY sparingly if at all, a small piece
of nut or one seed once, maybe twice a week at very most. See Chinchilla
Cymru article for details.
Protein, in excessive amounts
Vitamin and mineral pellets
(Calf Manna, Total Enhancer, Animax) can be beneficial, especially
to pregnant/ nursing, malnourished or ailing chins, but they should
be limited to 1-2 pellets given 2-3 times a week at most on a temporary
basis, do not overfeed, these are high in protein
and a lot of extra protein can cause liver disease.
Vegetables or "Greens"
With the exception of a small piece of fresh carrot that can
be fed 2-3 times a week, NEVER feed a chin FRESH produce because that
will make him vulnerable to bloat
and bloat can be fatal! Chinchillas are NOT
like guinea pigs and rabbits in this way, they do not need fresh vegetables
in their diet, pellets
and hay
are the only dietary staples they need and adding fresh vegetables
can actually be detrimental due to chins' sensitivity to bloat. It
is best to avoid the major bloat-inducing veggies whether they are
in fresh OR dried form: peas, cabbage, corn, lettuce, broccoli and
spinach. Dried vegetables such as pumpkin, potato, squash and sweet
potato are acceptable if offered in small pieces 2-3 times a week,
at most.

WHY DISTILLED OR FILTERED WATER IS BEST
NEVER use a water bowl, the contamination and
spill potential in a chinchilla's cage is too great for that, instead
use a water bottle and keep it out of direct sunlight. In
fact, the chin's cage
should be positioned out of direct sunlight, anyway. The water bottle
must be thoroughly cleaned (preferably by dishwasher) at least
once weekly, and it should be refilled daily with cold, distilled
or filtered water. Position the bottle on the bottom level of the
cage (but not in a pee corner) so that any drips will go straight
into the litter pan.
It's important to keep a backup water bottle
on hand because ANY water bottle design (Water Buddy, Oasis, etc.)
can potentially fail at the spout or drinking end, curtailing
your chin's access to water. Check the water level daily during water
bottle refill time and if the water level has not changed from the
day before, then check the spout to see if it is working correctly.
If not, give your chin his backup water bottle immediately while you
put the malfunctioning bottle through a dishwasher cycle. Test it
afterward, if the problem hasn't cleared the chin will need another
water bottle to replace that one. If you have two chins in a cage
and the water bottle had failed and left them without water, they'll
compete for water when they get it and this can cause cagemate conflicts.
It's best to have two backup water bottles in this case so that they
can quench their thirst without problem until their regular water
bottle (or a replacement) has been returned.
If a water bottle empties too quickly the spout may be leaking or
the chin may have chewed at the bottle and made a hole. However, it's
unusual for a chin to chew at his water bottle when it's working reliably,
doesn't sometimes run out of water, and when he has distractions to
keep him occupied such as: a large cage
to accomodate running and playing, a variety of chew
toys, at least one hideaway
per chin and a cage wheel
to help decrease stress and boredom inside the cage and TV
during waking hours when he isn't actively engaged in out-of-cage
exercise
and interaction.
If you start adding liquid vitamins (see: Supplier
Sites) to your chin's distilled or filtered water, or
when you initially switch to distilled or filtered water, it may take
him a bit of time to adjust because he can tell there's "something
different" and it's typical for chins to be initially suspicious
of change or the unfamiliar. Chins CAN safely go up to 24 hours (this
is historically and medically verifiable) without water barring
other complications, but if at the end of that time he is still reluctant
to drink, entice him by adding some cranberry juice or flavored pedialyte
to the water, up to about 20% of the water bottle's contents. He should
start drinking within 24 hours of the change but if he doesn't, give
him a bottle of what he's used to and see if he uses that. If not,
then there's something else wrong and he should be taken to your exotics
specialist vet
as soon as possible.
The business priorities on a pelting ranch (minimize cost and effort,
maximize personal gain) may have led to this statement on the
MCBA website, "DO NOT USE distilled water on your animals. The
nutrients which have been removed are important in maintaining a healthy
animal." But in reality, ordinary tap water is NOT enriched with
"nutrients," it's only cheap and easy to provide. If trace
minerals are what was intended by that quote, this does have some
relevance, "the mineral content of water reflects the nature
of the geologic formation with which the water has been in contact.
The most abundant minerals dissolved in water are salts of calcium,
magnesium, strontium, ferrous iron, and manganese." (ref-
Mad Sci Network)
However, "Whether the minerals in water are beneficial
or useless has been an ongoing debate. All of our minerals are derived
from our food: fresh fruits, vegetables, meat, poultry, grains, nuts,
and dairy products. The minerals in water are so scant that in Boston,
MA for example, one would have to drink 676 8-ounce glasses of tap
water to obtain the Recommended Daily Allowance ( RDA) of calcium.
That person would have to drink 1,848 8-ounce glasses to get RDA of
magnesium, 848 8-ounce glasses to get RDA of iron, and 168,960 8-ounce
glasses to obtain the RDA of phosphorus." -and- "Over 95%
of our minerals come from our food and less than 5% from drinking
water. You would practically have to drown yourself by drinking it
to get the RDA of any beneficial minerals." (ref-
durastill.com)
Any tiny advantage gained from the trace minerals
in ordinary tap water is eclipsed by the serious and potentially dangerous
problems associated with it:
Chlorination
"Chlorine has been the most widely used disinfectant in
the U.S. for over 60 years (1) and is the primary disinfectant for
drinking water in the world." (ref-
extoxnet.orst.edu)
Articles: darwin.bio.uci.edu,
pure-earth.com,
selene.com,
chlorinated water effect on pets- naturalrearing.com
Flouridation
Common to U.S. city water systems, "flouride IS a poison"
according to wholywater.com.
Well water may not have flouridation but it does have a greater risk
of parasites, read below.
Articles: all-natural.com,
emporium.turnpike.net,
fluoridealert.org, holisticmed.com
Routine contaminants: chemical pollution, lead, pesticides, etc.,
also true for well water- cdc.gov
Articles: aquamd.com,
aquasana.com,
healingdaily.com,
nrdc.org,
.pdf
by biosci.usc.edu, waterwarning.com
Outbreaks:
e. coli (Walkerton),
Cryptosporidium parasite (Milwaukee),
Giardia (.pdf,
cdc.gov)
Articles: arar.essortment.com,
cdc.gov,
chem.duke.edu, epa.gov,
universalwater.net,
waterquality.crc.org.au
If you want to supplement your chin's diet with additional minerals,
you can do so without jeopardizing his health! We need to provide
our chins with the purest AND safest water, and if mineral supplementation
is desired in addition to what chinchilla
pellets already provide, it can be obtained from suppliers who
offer clean, safe sources, see vitamins and minerals section under
Quick
Links.
"Water is, of course, a fundamental necessity for the domestic
chinchilla. Although city drinking water is adequate for chinchillas,
excessive chlorine can be very dangerous. If tap water has a strong
disinfectant smell... filtered water should be offered. Water from
natural sources is preferable to chlorinated drinking water."
(ref-
petcarevabeach.com)
"Fresh water should always be available. Tap water in most large
cities should probably be boiled because of the chlorine content."
(ref-
New Hope Animal Hospital)
The problems- chlorination, contaminants, parasites, etc.- with tap
water are magnified, more intense and detrimental for a chinchilla
than for an average healthy person; chins are more vulnerable just
as people with weakened immune systems are.
Bottled water doesn't (ref- bottledwaterblues.com,
nrdc.org- 1,
2)
necessarily guarantee safety and purity any
better than tap water, but distilled water (about
distilled- durastill.com, facts and myths- .doc
or getalife.net.au,
www.drdavidwilliams.com,
energiseforlife.com)
and filtered water do (ref- epa.gov,
cdc.gov,
drlam.com,
consumersearch.com,
waterfiltercomparisons.com).
It's true that distillation and some filters remove the tap water's
trace minerals, but the negligible amount of minerals in tap water
simply doesn't justify the health risks. "Among the debate about
distilled water, you will find some arguments against it. During the
distillation process, bacteria is removed from the water, but so are
the minerals. The debate centers around the benefits of minerals in
water, if the small amounts make a difference or not. This leads to
the myth that distilling water leeches minerals from your body, when
in fact people misunderstand the way distillation of water works within
the body. It actually works by aiding the blood and lymph systems
to carry any unused minerals in the body to the elimination systems.
Part of the way all natural water works in the system is to wash out
impurities and any substances that the body doesn't need."
(quote-
water-purification-filters.com, ref-
Life Extension forum)

HANDFEEDING AND FORMULAS
(articles, formulas:
complete diets, supplementary)
For handfeeding KITS, see Responsible
Breeding
A chin may stop eating for a variety of reasons: dental
problems, medication, illness, environmental stress,
an injury or an operation like neutering
(see stress-reducing measures in the "Recovery Period"
section of that article). Sometimes recuperation causes a chin
to eat less because he is not as active as usual or is temporarily
not feeling up to par. Handfeeding should be an attempt to supply
nourishment, not to get a chin to just "eat anything," see
Treats
vs. Health Hazards.
Warnings: Handfeeding introduces an abrupt dietary change,
which is a system shock for a chin that may already be ill or stressed.
DON'T undertake this as a result of notoriously erroneous forum advice
or without first consulting your exotics specialist vet,
it could induce potentially lethal digestive distress into an otherwise
manageable problem! See
"Don't Kill Your Chin With 'Kindness!" for guidelines about
when to begin handfeeding. Prolonged handfeeding can lead to or worsen
a case of malocclusion
(in the sense of tooth overgrowth), because the consumption
of course, high-fiber hay is necessary to prevent molar overgrowth.
When a chin is significantly
underweight or severely fur-bitten, he is more vulnerable to
cold and drafts. Put a sheet around his cage (as described
on Routines)
and provide some cloth (a baby blanket of fleece in his house,
a hammock,
Cuddl-E-Cup
with strap cut off, Comf-E-Cube, Chilla
Pilla with The Day Bed) in his cage
so that he can retain body heat, it's also a comforting convenience.
In cold weather climates it may also be adviseable to provide a heated
bed (such as Lectro Small Animal Heated
Pad), which can be placed inside a pillowcase for the chin
to sit on and stay warm. We've noted that chins with significant weight
loss or fur loss are attracted to heater vents during playtime, this
is because of loss of body heat. As long as the chin is able to move
off the heated bed at will, there is no danger of him overheating
himself.
Important: Some of the suggested formulas
(not intended as a complete or promoted list of formulas or suppliers)
below allow the chin to consume on his own while others are intended
for syringe or spoon feeding, in which case feedings should be done
at least 2-3 times daily and the chin should be allowed to eat his
fill. If the chin becomes messy in the course of feeding, take a warm,
damp cloth and wipe him down in the affected areas, then dry thoroughly
with a dry cloth and give dustbath (or Dustbath
Massage) afterward.
Additional Articles
Nutritional
First Aid, Probiotics
and Prebiotics Azure Chinchillas
Hand Feeding
Chinchillas Cheeky Chinchillas
Alternative
treatment for chinchillas who go "off their food," to prevent
bloat Davidson Chinchillas
Don't
Let the 'Cure' Kill Your Chinchilla Luv 'N Chins II
Hand-rearing and Supplementation
of Small Mammals Chris Strike VN,CGLI

Suggested Formulas
(complete
diets, supplementary
items)
COMPLETE DIETS
Complete diets are used in the event that the chin is unable
to subsist entirely on their dietary staples, however, always keep
fresh, high quality pellets,
hay
(in some circumstances it may be helpful to crumble hay from an alfalfa
hay cube into a dish for easier consumption) and distilled or filtered
water
available for consumption in case the chin's condition begins
to improve or if he is able to nibble at his pellets and hay. If a
chin begins to lose weight on one complete diet formula, gradually
switch to another over the course of a few days and
discontinue treats until the change is complete.
Complete Food
for Poorly Chins by CFPNP in the UK
Critical
Care by Oxbow, suppliers: Vetark
Professional (UK), Bunny
Bunch Boutique, Paradise
Chins
Ground pellets
mixed with distilled or filtered | |