| If you're having a serious behavioral problem with your chin, we're always happy to help with advice or referrals. Chinchillas are complex and each is truly unique, there aren't as many behavioral "absolutes" as there are behavioral patterns or guidelines, and it is some of these that we impart based on our years of working with hundreds of chins via our chinfamily that's numbered at over thirty since 2002, rescue work since 2000 and saving ranchies since 2004. Our advice on introductions is drawn from years of doing literally hundreds of introductions using a variety of methods with chinchillas of both sexes, from all backgrounds and social experience, as well as from networking internationally in the rescue community and from correspondence with chinparents. Chinchilla introductions are not an exact science, and it can take awhile to recognize the general patterns of behavior and to learn how to constructively react to them. Chinchillas of any gender, age or background may fight if not "introduced" before cohabitation. We encourage people to first be knowledgeable, and then empathetic and intuitive with their chins, and above all they should be patient and resolved never to compromise their chin's health, happiness or safety. Chinparents know their chins best and ultimately any decision they make regarding their chins is entirely their prerogative AND responsibility. It is always best to either get a pair that are already bonded or LET YOUR CHIN CHOOSE HIS OWN FRIEND. Contact a rescue service or pet breeder and ask about bringing your chin there to be matched up, they probably already have experience conducting introductions and it will save you the trouble. This will provide more opportunities to find the best same-sex pairing (verify gender, rescues are NFB) than if you just brought a chin home, hoping they'll get along. It is crucial to realize that once physical injury has been inflicted (wounds, missing digits, etc; fur-slip and urine-spraying are not injurious), the attacker and his victim will NOT be compatible any longer, period, they must be separated and remain that way. They will not just "work it out on their own," regardless of whether they're related or whether they've been bonded for years, and attempts to force compatibility in such a situation will only result in more serious injuries and even death from injuries or stress.  INTRODUCING CHINS: PRECAUTIONARY NOTES, POINTERS (intro method warning) Also see: Anti-Social Behavior Chinchillas are herd animals, they travel in groups in the wild. Chins in captivity also benefit from and generally appreciate the company of their own kind, companionship can help decrease stress and increase their ability to cope, but it is also true that a chin can live alone provided he bonds well with and receives a LOT of attention and interaction from his chinparent. Be aware of the potential for Single Female Chin Syndrome, not all females do well alone and this can result in their becoming overly stressed and acting out at their chinparent. Whether or not a chin gets along with his chinparent is not a definite indication of whether or not he'll get along with other chins. Some chins that have had bad past experiences with other chins do tend to bond better with people and reject the company of their own kind, and likewise some chins that have been mistreated by people in the past tend to favor their bond with other chins. But most of the time, when a chinparent gets a friend for their chin, it does not diminish their relationship and it provides the chin with company during their entire nocturnal waking hours.  Temperament, whether the chins are alike/ complimentary or not, is the main determiner of compatibility, but the success of the introductory process as we have come to realize it has a lot to do with the chins' social disposition, whether their past experience with other chins has been positive, negative or inexperienced. Social disposition may or may not be known, depending on whether the chinparent knows their chins' background, but regardless of that, temperament is always the place to start in determining potential compatibility. Chins should be alike or complimentary in temperament, for example: two mellow chins, two loud (vocal) chins, two passive chins, two high-strung chins, or a dominant chin with a passive chin that appreciates and is not intimidated by him. Temperaments that are not alike or complimentary include: a passive chin that resents and is intimidated by the dominant chin, a high-strung chin that is unnerved by a loud (vocal) chin, and if there is more than one dominant or leader personality type in the group (two or more), then there will be conflict. Chins are very individualistic creatures, and while we believe that there's a friend out there for every chin, it's not necessarily the one they find themselves in introductions with; chins don't automatically get along with just any other member of their own species. Realize too that when chins cohabitate in their cage environment that it puts them in close quarters where they have to share everything, they can't just wander off to another room when they're in a mood the way some other free-roaming household pets can. Some chins are more difficult to find a friend for than others, but most of the time, if the chinparent has applied their knowledge of the chins' temperaments, their personalities and communication styles, etc., then chances are very good that the chins will indeed be compatible. As stated previously, it is always best to either get a pair that are already bonded or let your chin choose his own friend. Contact a rescue service or pet breeder and ask about bringing your chin there to be matched up, they probably already have experience conducting introductions and it will save you the trouble. This will provide more opportunities to find the best same-sex pairing (verify gender, rescues are NFB) than if you just brought a chin home, hoping they'll get along. Although chinchillas can definitely get along in groups of more than two in captivity, limiting groups to two, or pairs, greatly reduces the potential for cagemate conflicts. As more personalities are added, the potential for future conflict increases exponentially, and any addition to the group will need to have a temperament that is compatible with all other group members in order for the group to cohabitate peacefully. A cage that is large enough for one or two chinchillas will probably result in overcrowding if more are added, the Martin's Townhouse is an example of how large a cage must be to comfortably accomodate up to four. It is VERY important to verify gender before introducing chins, especially if one of the chins being introduced is a pet store chin as they are frequently mis-sexed, this will prevent unwanted pregnancy. Unless you are prepared to be a dedicated, responsible breeder, we advise same-sex pairings. Chins can coexist in any gender combination, there is no combination that is more or less likely or "guaranteed" to succeed than the others, once all potential advantages and disadvantages are considered: Male/Male, Female/Female, Male/Female. One important exception to note is that there can be only one (neutered or not) male per female or group of females. If there is more than one male cohabitating with a female/s, this will result in conflicts between the males, even if the males are neutered. Pairing a recently-weaned chin with a middle-aged or senior chin (see: Estimating Chinchilla Age) often does work, because a recently-weaned chin is usually socially inexperienced, provided he wasn't abused by his littermates or by cagemates in a pet store situation, and age usually makes chins more mellow. When a male has been with a female he assumes the role of guardian and other males are viewed as adversaries. A male who has recently been with a female will need about a week alone to readjust before being introduced to a another male. It's important to have a preestablished, positive bond of trust established between the chinparent and all participating chins prior to putting them through the inevitable stress of introductory sessions. This bond of trust is especially important if one of the chins has endured past neglect, abandonment or abuse by people and has subsequently become hyperdefensive toward both people and other chins. New chins need at least a week, sometimes more, to settle in and bond with you before intros and some chins may also require behavioral rehabilitation. Chins need to feel safe, like they can trust their chinparent to make responsible decisions because the chinparent does effectively hold their chin's life in their hands; a bond of trust will take some of the stress out of introductions for them as well as make them more responsive to vocal coaching. Sometimes an "only chin," one that has been kept singly for a period of time and has staked a territorial claim on their chinparent and premises, will make intros difficult in an effort to drive off the "competition" and maintain their status as THE chin of the household. Chins need to be introduced individually at first, one on one, before being introduced as a group. This ensures that all members of the group truly get along with all the other members before they have to function as a group, and it discourages cliques and scapegoating once they're all together. When introducing a newcomer to an already bonded group, seperate all chins in the group for about a week (different cages, out of view) before reintroducing them individually, one on one. When former ties are relaxed it makes chins more receptive to bonding with a newcomer.
Intro Method Warning (smooshing, side by side cages) Normally we don't advise against introduction methods, we have used many ourselves over the years with success, and in our opinion the only valid objection would be that a method puts the chins at undue risk for stress-related shock or physical injury (wounds, missing digits, etc; fur-slip and urine-spraying are not injurious). We believe that Smooshing and Side by Side Cages do pose this undue risk. For years we've heard from chinparents and other rescuers whose chins were injured (sometimes killed) or began acting anti-social toward both other chins and their chinparents after using these methods. Probably the most common email that we get on this subject is from a chinparent asking if there is anything they can do to "fix" things because they used one of those methods and now their two thoroughly antagonized and hostile chins absolutely hate each other. In our opinion, after years of hearing this, we feel justified in issuing a warning to others. When Smooshing and Side by Side Cages are recommended by some people, what they fail to realize is that sometimes a method only appears to work because of the chins they're introducing, like hand-raised pet bred and docile ranch chins with positive or inexperienced social dispositions. Easy-going, well-adjusted, chin-friendly chins can often get along without any introduction at all, provided their temperaments are also compatible. Since intros are a moot point with these chins, they will make ANY introduction method appear "successful." But this is not representative of the common experience, what the average chinparent will encounter, because overall it is more common for a chin to be socially negative (due to a bad past encounter with other chins) than positive or inexperienced. This fact gives rise to serious complications and risks (stress-related shock, physical injury) that Smooshing and Side by Side Cages will only inflame. Smooshing involves cramming two chins into a tight space where they can barely move, sometimes with an artificial scent rubbed on their nose, and leaving them that way with supervision for anywhere from about five minutes to a half hour. This method has been promoted in the U.S. pet community by one person in particular, who by no small coincidence also sells "Smooshing Cages." Not all chins will back down when cornered, and when a small animal of prey is cornered, this in itself inflicts extreme stress and can instigate hostility, especially so if the forced confrontation is imposed on a chin that's already high-strung, frightened, or untrusting of other chins. A presumed tight fit holds no guarantee that a chin can't still maneuver into biting position, under their fur they're not as bulky as they appear, and in such close striking range lethal damage can occur before intervention is possible. Chins that appear mututally intimidated and show submission during smooshing may be biding time until they meet again, in a larger cage environment where there is ample opportunity to attack. Smooshing is dangerous, it often results in injury or death from wounds or stress-related shock; in one online poll on a major forum, approximately half of the participants voted that Smooshing had ended tragically for them. From one pet forum quote, revised and reproduced here with permission of the author: "I have seen way too many times the very nasty negative side of smooshing, and in fact have a very badly beaten female in the rescue right now that was put through this by her owners. I didn't think she would survive the first night, but after a month and some very gentle nursing she has made a recovery, at least physically, mentally I doubt she will ever go back to the sweet people-friendly chin she once was..." Years ago we tried something similar to Smooshing with chins of various backgrounds, the only difference being that our version didn't involve scent confusion, which we oppose because anything rubbed onto a chin's nose can potentially get into it, and they breathe through their noses. In the more than a dozen times that we tried it, Smooshing always resulted in very traumatized chins, with occassional injuries to both them and us, including one time when one of the webmasters was bit clear to the bone in an intervention attempt. The very last time we used it, Smooshing resulted in death, from a deep bite wound to the top of the chin's head.
Side by Side Cages involves putting two cages side by side for a period of time from days to weeks. The cages are not supposed to be actually touching, the purpose being "to allow the chins to constantly see one another and become accustomed to one another's scents and presence." The theory is that when they finally meet face-to-face, it'll be like a grand reunion of old friends... This method may seem plausible and harmless, but then people aren't as preoccupied with territorialism as a small animal of prey is. But suppose that somebody moved in next door to you and their idea of getting better acquainted before actually introducing themselves was to park their car in your driveway for a week or two first... Chinchillas actually do have a territorial range or "comfort zone" that extends a few feet out from their cage in the directions they can see (covering cages, as described on Routines, reduces stress and helps prevent cagemate conflicts), and by instinct they want to defend and secure that immediate territory. A chin right next door that won't (can't) go away constitues a territorial violation and this can make some chins extremely antagonized and irate, others horribly stressed. We corresponded with one chinparent who tried this method and the resident chin, who was an "only" chin at the time, became very upset and tried to get at the chin in the cage nearby. Although he couldn't reach him, the other chin nonetheless became listless and hunched in fear, then one morning a few days later was found dead from stress-related shock. His memorial is here. Other times, rather than trying to get at the other chin, they'll take up guard at the cage wall closest to the other cage. People often mistake this defensive action for their wanting to be friendly or close with the other chin when in fact, they're feeling violated and acting on their fear and apprehension. Side by Side Cages can predispose one or both chins to view their rival (the chin in the other cage) with loathing even before they've actually met, and this latent hostility is expressed when the cages have been placed too close together and fingers or toes get bitten off. Some people see the chins trying to get at each other by biting at their cage bars and just assume that they're "eager to be friends" but when provoked chins finally meet, there will be fighting, not hugging. From our mailbag, by a pet breeder: "I got a beautiful white vc male, finally of breeding age, out of my beautiful (and healthy and great coat and all that) Ritterspach white and planned to introduce him to a violet girl from a friend who has some of the single largest chins I've seen in my lifetime. I put them together by placing him in a small cage inside the big one that the girl occupied, this was after three months of them in cages side by side. I finally let him out of the small one inside the big one after three weeks of that arrangement, along with dustbath so that they would hopefully commune and get along. Went to change the baby, came back, not ten minutes later she had killed him stone dead." CAGE WITHIN A CAGE (CWAC) METHOD OF INTRODUCING CHINCHILLAS (steps: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7) Also see these articles that have a direct bearing on this section: Precautionary Notes, Pointers, The Social Disposition Indicator, Maintaining Group Compatibility and Anti-Social Behavior If your chins have been put through either Smooshing or Side by Side Cages and now exhibit extreme animosity towards each other, then chances are great that they will not be compatible in future under any circumstances. If you choose to try the CWAC Method after the damage has been done with those other methods, then give the chins at least a few weeks apart, out of view of each other, to forget and recuperate. If using those methods has caused physical injury (wounds, missing digits, etc; fur-slip and urine-spraying are not injurious), then the chins involved are definitely no longer compatible and further attempts to force compatibility will only result in more serious injuries and even death from injuries or stress. 
The following is just our version, which differs significantly in
some key ways, of the Cage Within a Cage method, which is sometimes
referred to as "Large Cage, Small Cage" or, "Peggy's
Way." CWAC predates us, it's been around for a long time, it's
just one of many introduction methods we've used and advised on with
success and it seems to be a good fit for some people with low stress
tolerance and busy schedules. We only emphasize that whatever method
a chinparent chooses, it should never put the chins at undue risk
for stress-related shock
or physical injury (wounds,
missing digits, etc; fur-slip and urine-spraying are not injurious).
Our version of CWAC, as set forth below, has proven safe in our and
others' experience. It is best to read through all the points first
before trying this method, to be prepared.
THE SOCIAL DISPOSITION INDICATOR (socially negative, socially positive, socially inexperienced, conclusion) Also see Adoption Source, or Background, and Behavioral Expectations In the years that we've closely observed and conducted introductions, we've come to realize that the prime indicator of how a chin will react in an introductory session depends on what his past experience has been with his own kind and whether that experience has been positive, negative or whether the chin lacks social experience altogether. Experience, whether for good or bad, predisposes both people and animals to have particular expectations of future encounters. While people can choose to excuse or dismiss a bad experience, animals cannot. They are restricted by instinct, biologically "programmed" if you will, to learn from the past and to apply what they've learned to future situations. It's essential for their self-preservation that they do this in order to anticipate and react to a perceived problem before they suffer the consequences, regardless of whether people are able to realize this and empathize with their point of view. Socially Negative Simply put, a chinchilla that has had bad experiences with other chins in the past, who has been attacked, intimidated, or hostilely pursued will be predisposed to exhibit likewise to other chins in future. Chins tend to eventually learn how to fight back, but not all anti-social behavior is learned, sometimes it is instinctual to a high-strung or oversensitive chin. A chin that has been attacked, intimidated, or hostilely pursued in the past may or may not need provocation in the present, chins can strike preemptively. When a chin adopts anti-social behavior toward other chins, this does not make him "bad" or "mean," but in rare situations when a chin is severely socially negative, when the anti-social behavior extends FAR beyond the usual bit of dominating or scuffling to the point where there's a definite intent to kill, such a chin is best off neutered to reduce his extreme hormonal drive, or should remain a single chin. But nearly always, a socially negative chin can be trained out of anti-social behavior with an introductory method that directly addresses and curbs this behavior. Socially Positive Chinchillas that have had only positive social experiences with their own kind will normally have a positive social disposition toward other chins, unless a high-strung or oversensitive temperament predisposes them toward anti-social behavior. A socially positive chin will anticipate that other chins are friendly, he'll rush in to greet and groom or casually meander about during introductions, he'll even turn his back on the other chin out of trust, without apprehension or fear of negative consequences. Socially positive chins are outgoing, unassuming and accepting of the other chin during introductions, after all, their past hasn't taught them to be guarded or fearful. Socially Inexperienced Chinchillas with very little (littermates) to no social experience with their own kind are socially inexperienced and the way they react in introductions reveals that: they're generally excited about getting to meet the other chin and they express naivete, interest and curiosity, they don't know what to expect in return but their approach is open and willing. This is why the advice to pair a recently-weaned chin with a mellower middle-aged or senior chin (see: Estimating Chinchilla Age) often does work, because a recently-weaned chin is usually socially inexperienced, provided he wasn't abused by his littermates or by cagemates in a pet store situation. Ranch chinchillas are a prime example of socially inexperience. On the ranch they are housed in their own separate cage compartments after weaning, and it they are put into the ranch's breeding program they get very little socialization by virtue of the polygamous breeding system (used by most U.S. ranchers), which bypasses the need for introductions because the male can come and go from the female's cage at will while she cannot. 
We have been saving ranch chinchillas from pelting since 2004, per Pet Homes For Ranchies, and we always spontaneously pair up chinchillas in carriers for the ride home to begin their adjustment period. By the time we arrive, a few hours later, they have already begun to form social dispositions for positive or negative based on this brief period of socialization, their first impressions, and many have to be consequently re-grouped. It should be understood that our experience may not be representative of ranches everywhere, but we have had corroboration by others who save ranchies. Over the next few days, as their social experience accumulates, their reaction to their fellow ranchies becomes more definite, resulting in continued defensive, hostile (socially negative) or compatible (socially positive) behaviors that we watch closely and use to guide us in yet more re-grouping until everyone is happily coexisting. Social inexperience is a temporary state, because once a chin encounters other chins the experience shapes him to become socially positive or negative.
Conclusion When a chinchilla's adoption source is something other than a ranch, when it's a pet breeder, pet store, rescue or re-homed source, then they've probably developed a social disposition, either for positive or negative. Socially positive or inexperienced chins are the easiest to introduce, provided that both chins to be introduced are of one of those social dispositions. When that's the case, introductions may not be necessary at all, as long as the chins' temperaments are also compatible. Overall, it is more common for a chin to be socially negative than socially positive or inexperienced, but in any case a chin's social disposition doesn't come to the surface until introductions are underway, and this is why it is absolutely imperative that introductions are always closely supervised and the method used does not put the chins at undue risk for stress-related shock or physical injury (wounds, missing digits, etc; fur-slip and urine-spraying are not injurious). |
Put
the other chin into the large cage. Allow this "free"
chin to look around and talk to the chin in the show cage for
about 5 minutes and then let the show cage chin out,
simultaneously removing the show cage (or carrier) from
the large cage (or small room) so that both chins
are roaming the large cage together.
Leave the cage doors open and you must have your hand right
there, ready to intervene should any problem occur. You
may want to wear gloves in case one chin should emerge as a
biter. Other than vocal coaching and intervening when necessary,
abstain from interacting with the chins during their introductory
process because this can cause a number of problems- distraction,
confusion, competition, jealousy, etc. If using the small room
alternative, be aware that some chins will try to perch on or
hide under their chinparent, using him like an edifice from
which to gain leverage or barricade against the other chin,
and this should not be allowed to occur.
