If you're having
a serious behavioral problem with your chin, we're always happy to
help with advice or
referrals. Chinchillas are complex and each is truly unique, there
aren't as many behavioral "absolutes" as there are behavioral
patterns or guidelines, and it is some of these that we impart based
on our years of working with hundreds of chins via our
chinfamily that's numbered at over thirty since 2002, rescue work
since 2000 and saving ranchies
since 2004.
Our advice on introductions is drawn from years
of doing literally hundreds of introductions using a variety of methods
with chinchillas of both sexes, from all backgrounds
and social
experience, as well as from networking internationally in the
rescue community and from correspondence with chinparents. Chinchilla
introductions are not an exact science, and it can take awhile to
recognize the general patterns of behavior and to learn how to constructively
react to them.
Chinchillas
of any gender, age or background may fight
if not "introduced" before cohabitation.
We encourage people to first be knowledgeable, and then empathetic
and intuitive with their chins, and above all they should be patient
and resolved never to compromise their chin's health, happiness or
safety. Chinparents know their chins best and ultimately any decision
they make regarding their chins is entirely their prerogative AND
responsibility.
It is always best
to either get a pair that are already bonded
or LET YOUR CHIN CHOOSE HIS OWN FRIEND. Contact a rescue
service or pet breeder and ask about bringing your chin there to be
matched up, they probably already have experience conducting introductions
and it will save you the trouble. This will provide more opportunities
to find the best same-sex pairing (verify
gender,
rescues
are NFB)
than if you just brought a chin home, hoping they'll get along.
It
is crucial to realize that once physical injury has been inflicted
(wounds,
missing digits, etc; fur-slip and urine-spraying are not injurious),
the attacker and his victim will NOT be compatible any longer, period,
they must be separated and remain that way.
They will not just "work it out on their own," regardless
of whether they're related or whether they've been bonded for years,
and attempts to force compatibility in such a situation will only
result in more serious injuries and even death from injuries or stress.

INTRODUCING CHINS: PRECAUTIONARY NOTES, POINTERS
(intro
method warning)
Also see: Anti-Social
Behavior
Chinchillas are herd animals, they travel in groups in the wild.
Chins in captivity also benefit from and generally appreciate the
company of their own kind, companionship can help decrease stress
and increase their ability to cope, but it is also true that a chin
can live alone provided he bonds well with and receives a LOT of attention
and interaction
from his chinparent. Be aware of the potential for Single Female Chin
Syndrome,
not all females do well alone and this can result in their becoming
overly stressed and acting
out at their chinparent.
Whether or not a chin gets along with his chinparent is not a definite
indication of whether or not he'll get along with other chins. Some
chins that have had bad past experiences with other chins do tend
to bond better with people and reject the company of their own kind,
and likewise some chins that have been mistreated by people in the
past tend to favor their bond with other chins. But most of the time,
when a chinparent gets a friend for their chin, it does not diminish
their relationship and it provides the chin with company during their
entire nocturnal waking hours.

Temperament,
whether the chins are alike/ complimentary or not, is the main determiner
of compatibility, but the success of the introductory process as we
have come to realize it has a lot to do with the chins' social
disposition, whether their past experience
with other chins has been positive, negative or inexperienced.
Social disposition may or may not be known, depending on whether the
chinparent knows their chins' background, but regardless of that,
temperament is always the place to start in determining potential
compatibility. Chins should be alike or complimentary in temperament,
for example: two mellow chins, two loud (vocal) chins, two
passive chins, two high-strung chins, or a dominant chin with a passive
chin that appreciates and is not intimidated by him. Temperaments
that are not alike or complimentary include: a passive chin that resents
and is intimidated by the dominant chin, a high-strung chin that is
unnerved by a loud (vocal) chin, and if there is more than
one dominant or leader personality type in the group (two or more),
then there will be conflict.
Chins are very individualistic creatures, and while we believe that
there's a friend out there for every chin, it's not necessarily the
one they find themselves in introductions with; chins don't automatically
get along with just any other member of their own species. Realize
too that when chins cohabitate in their cage
environment that it puts them in close quarters where they have to
share everything, they can't just wander off to another room when
they're in a mood the way some other free-roaming household pets can.
Some chins are more difficult to find a friend for than others, but
most of the time, if the chinparent has applied their knowledge of
the chins' temperaments, their personalities and communication styles,
etc., then chances are very good that the chins will indeed be compatible.
As stated previously, it is always
best to either get a pair that are already bonded or let your chin
choose his own friend. Contact a rescue
service or pet breeder and ask about bringing your chin there to be
matched up, they probably already have experience conducting introductions
and it will save you the trouble. This will provide more opportunities
to find the best same-sex pairing (verify gender,
rescues are NFB)
than if you just brought a chin home, hoping they'll get along.
Although chinchillas can definitely get along
in groups of more than two in captivity, limiting groups to two, or
pairs, greatly reduces the potential for cagemate conflicts.
As more personalities are added, the potential for future conflict
increases exponentially, and any addition to the group will
need to have a temperament that is compatible with all other group
members in order for the group to cohabitate peacefully. A cage
that is large enough for one or two chinchillas will probably result
in overcrowding
if more are added, the Martin's Townhouse
is an example of how large a cage must be to comfortably accomodate
up to four.
It is VERY
important to verify
gender before introducing chins, especially if one of the chins
being introduced is a pet store chin as they are frequently mis-sexed,
this will prevent unwanted pregnancy.
Unless you are prepared to be a dedicated, responsible
breeder, we advise same-sex pairings. Chins
can coexist in any gender combination, there is no combination
that is more or less likely or "guaranteed" to succeed than
the others, once all potential advantages and disadvantages are considered:
Male/Male, Female/Female, Male/Female. One important exception to
note is that there can be only one (neutered
or not) male per female or group of females. If there is more
than one male cohabitating with a female/s, this will result in conflicts
between the males, even if the males are neutered.
Pairing a recently-weaned chin with a middle-aged or senior chin (see:
Estimating
Chinchilla Age) often does work, because a recently-weaned
chin is usually socially inexperienced,
provided he wasn't abused by his littermates or by cagemates in a
pet store situation, and age usually makes chins more mellow.
When a male has been with a female he assumes the role of guardian
and other males are viewed as adversaries. A male who has recently
been with a female will need about a week alone to readjust before
being introduced to a another male.
It's important to have a preestablished, positive
bond of
trust established between the chinparent and all participating chins
prior to putting them through the inevitable stress
of introductory sessions. This
bond of trust is especially important if one of the chins has endured
past neglect, abandonment or abuse by people and has subsequently
become hyperdefensive toward both people and other chins. New chins
need at least a week, sometimes more, to settle in and bond
with you before intros and some chins may also require behavioral
rehabilitation. Chins need to feel safe, like they can trust their
chinparent to make responsible decisions because the chinparent does
effectively hold their chin's life in their hands; a bond of trust
will take some of the stress out of introductions for them as well
as make them more responsive to vocal coaching.
Sometimes an "only chin," one that has been kept singly
for a period of time and has staked a territorial
claim on their chinparent and premises, will make intros difficult
in an effort to drive off the "competition" and maintain
their status as THE chin of the household.
Chins need to
be introduced individually at first, one on one, before
being introduced as a group. This ensures that all members of the
group truly get along with all the other members before they have
to function as a group, and it discourages cliques and scapegoating
once they're all together. When introducing a newcomer to an already
bonded group, seperate all chins in the group for about a week (different
cages, out of view) before reintroducing them individually, one
on one. When former ties are relaxed it makes chins more receptive
to bonding with a newcomer.
Intro Method Warning
(smooshing,
side
by side cages)
Normally we don't advise against introduction methods, we have used
many ourselves over the years with success, and in our opinion the
only valid objection would be that a method puts the chins at undue
risk for stress-related shock
or physical injury (wounds,
missing digits, etc; fur-slip and urine-spraying are not injurious).
We believe that Smooshing and Side by Side Cages do pose this undue
risk. For years we've heard from chinparents and other rescuers whose
chins were injured (sometimes killed) or began acting anti-social
toward both other chins and their chinparents after using these methods.
Probably the most common email that we get on this subject is from
a chinparent asking if there is anything they can do to "fix"
things because they used one of those methods and now their two thoroughly
antagonized and hostile chins absolutely hate each other. In our opinion,
after years of hearing this, we feel justified in issuing a warning
to others.
When Smooshing and Side by Side Cages are recommended by some
people, what they fail to realize is that sometimes a method only
appears to work because of the chins they're introducing, like hand-raised
pet bred and docile ranch chins with positive or inexperienced social
dispositions. Easy-going, well-adjusted, chin-friendly chins can
often get along without any introduction at all, provided their
temperaments
are also compatible. Since intros are a moot point with these chins,
they will make ANY introduction method appear "successful."
But this is not representative of the common experience, what the
average chinparent will encounter, because overall it is more common
for a chin to be socially
negative
(due to a bad past encounter with other chins)
than positive or inexperienced.
This fact gives rise to serious complications and risks (stress-related
shock, physical injury) that
Smooshing and Side by Side Cages
will only inflame.
Smooshing involves cramming two chins into a tight space where
they can barely move, sometimes with an artificial scent rubbed on
their nose, and leaving them that way with supervision for anywhere
from about five minutes to a half hour. This method has been promoted
in the U.S. pet community by one person in particular, who by no small
coincidence also sells "Smooshing Cages."
Not all chins will back down when cornered, and when a small animal
of prey is cornered, this in itself inflicts extreme stress
and can instigate hostility, especially so if the forced confrontation
is imposed on a chin that's already high-strung,
frightened, or untrusting of other chins. A presumed tight fit holds
no guarantee that a chin can't still maneuver into biting position,
under their fur they're not as bulky as they appear, and in such close
striking range lethal damage can occur before intervention is possible.
Chins that appear mututally intimidated and show submission during
smooshing may be biding time until they meet again, in a larger cage
environment where there is ample opportunity to attack. Smooshing
is dangerous, it often results in injury or death from wounds or stress-related
shock;
in one online poll on a major forum, approximately half of the participants
voted that Smooshing had ended tragically for them.
From one pet forum quote, revised and reproduced here with permission
of the author: "I have seen way too many times the very nasty
negative side of smooshing, and in fact have a very badly beaten female
in the rescue right now that was put through this by her owners. I
didn't think she would survive the first night, but after a month
and some very gentle nursing she has made a recovery, at least physically,
mentally I doubt she will ever go back to the sweet people-friendly
chin she once was..."
Years ago we tried something similar to Smooshing with chins of various
backgrounds,
the only difference being that our version didn't involve scent confusion,
which we oppose because anything rubbed onto a chin's nose can potentially
get into it, and they breathe through their noses. In the more than
a dozen times that we tried it, Smooshing always resulted in very
traumatized chins, with occassional injuries to both them and us,
including one time when one of the webmasters was bit clear to the
bone in an intervention attempt. The very last time we used it, Smooshing
resulted in death, from a deep bite wound to the top of the chin's
head.
Side by Side Cages involves putting two cages side by side
for a period of time from days to weeks. The cages are not supposed
to be actually touching, the purpose being "to allow the chins
to constantly see one another and become accustomed to one another's
scents and presence." The theory is that when they finally meet
face-to-face, it'll be like a grand reunion of old friends...
This method may seem plausible and harmless, but then people aren't
as preoccupied with territorialism
as a small animal of prey is. But suppose that somebody moved in next
door to you and their idea of getting better acquainted before actually
introducing themselves was to park their car in your driveway for
a week or two first... Chinchillas actually do have a territorial
range or "comfort zone" that extends a few feet out from
their cage
in the directions they can see (covering cages, as described on
Routines,
reduces stress
and helps prevent cagemate conflicts),
and by instinct they want to defend and secure that immediate
territory. A chin right next door that won't (can't) go away
constitues a territorial violation and this can make some chins extremely
antagonized and irate, others horribly stressed.
We corresponded with one chinparent who tried this method and the
resident chin, who was an "only" chin at the time, became
very upset and tried to get at the chin in the cage nearby. Although
he couldn't reach him, the other chin nonetheless became listless
and hunched in fear, then one morning a few days later was found dead
from stress-related shock.
His memorial is here.
Other times, rather than trying to get at the other chin, they'll
take up guard at the cage wall closest to the other cage. People often
mistake this defensive action for their wanting to be friendly or
close with the other chin when in fact, they're feeling violated and
acting on their fear and apprehension.
Side by Side Cages can predispose one or both chins to view their
rival (the chin in the other cage) with loathing even before
they've actually met, and this latent hostility is expressed when
the cages have been placed too close together and fingers or toes
get bitten off. Some people see the chins trying to get at each other
by biting at their cage bars and just assume that they're "eager
to be friends" but when provoked chins finally meet, there will
be fighting,
not hugging.
From our mailbag, by a pet breeder: "I got a beautiful white
vc male, finally of breeding age, out of my beautiful (and healthy
and great coat and all that) Ritterspach white and planned to
introduce him to a violet girl from a friend who has some of the single
largest chins I've seen in my lifetime. I put them together by placing
him in a small cage inside the big one that the girl occupied, this
was after three months of them in cages side by side. I finally let
him out of the small one inside the big one after three weeks of that
arrangement, along with dustbath so that they would hopefully commune
and get along. Went to change the baby, came back, not ten minutes
later she had killed him stone dead."

CAGE WITHIN A CAGE (CWAC) METHOD OF INTRODUCING
CHINCHILLAS
(steps: 1,
2,
3,
4,
5,
6,
7)
Also see these articles that have a direct
bearing on this section: Precautionary
Notes, Pointers,
The
Social Disposition Indicator, Maintaining
Group Compatibility and Anti-Social
Behavior
If your chins have been put through either
Smooshing or Side by Side Cages
and now exhibit extreme animosity towards each other, then chances
are great that they will not be compatible in future under any circumstances.
If
you choose to try the CWAC Method after the damage has been done with
those other methods, then give the chins at least a few weeks apart,
out of view of each other, to forget and recuperate. If using those
methods has caused physical injury (wounds,
missing digits, etc; fur-slip and urine-spraying
are not injurious), then the chins involved are definitely no
longer compatible and further attempts to force compatibility will
only result in more serious injuries and even death from injuries
or stress.
The following is just our version, which differs significantly in
some key ways, of the Cage Within a Cage method, which is sometimes
referred to as "Large Cage, Small Cage" or, "Peggy's
Way." CWAC predates us, it's been around for a long time, it's
just one of many introduction methods we've used and advised on with
success and it seems to be a good fit for some people with low stress
tolerance and busy schedules. We only emphasize that whatever method
a chinparent chooses, it should never put the chins at undue risk
for stress-related shock
or physical injury (wounds,
missing digits, etc; fur-slip and urine-spraying are not injurious).
Our version of CWAC, as set forth below, has proven safe in our and
others' experience. It is best to read through all the points first
before trying this method, to be prepared.
| 1) |
This
version of CWAC takes place continuously, to avoid prolonging
the stress
and aggravation that inevitably affect both chin and chinparent
to some degree with any introduction method. Be prepared to
stay nearby and supervise constantly for up to 24-36 hours (you
may want to get a friend to help), maybe a little longer
if you believe they just need more time, but if they haven't
sorted out their differences by 48 hours then they should be
regarded as not compatible and this is a possibility that the
chinparent must be willing to accept. If the chins are not compatible
they cannot cohabitate, and the chinparent is responsible for
being prepared to provide them with separate living arrangements.
If you plan to introduce one of the incompatible chins to a
different chin later on, allow him at least a week to relax
and regroup before beginning another introductory session.

|
| 2) |
Start
with this gender
determining and trust building exercise, which we delicately
refer to as the "Butt to Butt":
Get a friend to help, and take a chin each and sit right next
to your friend, side by side, on a couch or sofa as opposed
to sitting on the floor where the chins will be preoccupied
with wanting to get free to run and play. Position the chins
in your laps so they're held still and facing each other at
about a foot apart, and just let them look at each other for
about 20 seconds.
After that time is up, put one chin's face under the tail of
the other chin, but with at least an inch space between face
and tail, allowing no opportunity for physical contact. When
the chin shows some acknowledgement, give the other chin the
same opportunity to detect gender, then again hold them a foot
apart, face to face, for another 20 seconds. This will serve
to reinforce the connection between seeing the other chin and
acknowledging his gender, which can help avoid excessive dominance-related
behavior later on, males in particular sometimes get more aggressive
and insistent with other males when they think they're dealing
with a coy female.
Next, position the chins back to back, butt to butt so that
they ARE touching in a way that they can feel and know that
the other chin is now behind them. Keep them like that for one
minute, again, holding them gently but firmly so they don't
squirm because this will make the other chin nervous about being
attacked from behind. The ability to turn their back on the
other chin helps build trust.
|
| 3) |
The
cages used for CWAC must be thoroughly cleaned in order to be
used for introductions, and a show
cage can be used as the small cage, the one that will go
into the large
cage. A show cage can usually be obtained from a
pet breeder or rancher, they're available in both the U.S. and
UK, or you can use any wire cage that is able to fit into your
large cage. If you can't obtain a cage that will fit into your
large cage, then an alternative to the large and small cage
arrangement is to use a wire carrier
in a small room.
Put the chin that is most likely to make trouble inside the
show cage (or carrier, if using the "wire carrier in
a small room" alternative) first, with a pillowcase
or piece of fleece cloth to make things comfy. Wrap a towel
(no strings, fringe or loose weave, to avoid problems
associated with accidental ingestion) around the top and
two sides of the show cage (or carrier), tucking it underneath
so that it can't be pulled aside. This way, when a chin is inside
the show cage, he cannot be confronted from every side, he can
retreat if he chooses and should the other chin get on top of
the show cage, his toes won't get bit.
Be sure the large cage (or small room) is outfitted with
pellets,
hay,
water
and a chew
toy, but NO wheel
that they could compete for and NO hideaways
(tube, hammock,
house- no
plastic) where they could barricade or shelves/ perches
where they could gain leverage over the other. It
is also adviseable to use just one level of the large cage,
which can be achieved by blocking off the entrance/ exit ramps
so that neither chin can assert
his dominance by refusing to allow the other chin onto the upper
cage levels.

|
| 4) |
Put
the other chin into the large cage. Allow this "free"
chin to look around and talk to the chin in the show cage for
about 5 minutes and then let the show cage chin out,
simultaneously removing the show cage (or carrier) from
the large cage (or small room) so that both chins
are roaming the large cage together.
Leave the cage doors open and you must have your hand right
there, ready to intervene should any problem occur. You
may want to wear gloves in case one chin should emerge as a
biter. Other than vocal coaching and intervening when necessary,
abstain from interacting with the chins during their introductory
process because this can cause a number of problems- distraction,
confusion, competition, jealousy, etc. If using the small room
alternative, be aware that some chins will try to perch on or
hide under their chinparent, using him like an edifice from
which to gain leverage or barricade against the other chin,
and this should not be allowed to occur.
Vocal Coaching: It is extremely
important to talk the chins through their intros, vocally
coaching them with positive encouragement continuously, as long
as they're behaving, and be especially affirmative and praising
if they're demonstrating compatible behaviors. Chins that have
a bond of trust with their chinparent will be receptive to approving
or disapproving tones, the tone of voice used is actually more
important than the words spoken during coaching. For instance,
when saying "no" use a deep, serious, disapproving
tone and when saying "good boy/ girl [insert name, using
names gives more specific direction]" use a more high-pitched,
light, enthusiastic and approving tone. Of course, never be
loud or mean with your tone, in the very least it's counterproductive.
Typical first reactions include: sniffing under tails
to be certain of gender;
walking around each other a bit warily; running on top of each
other, which is just fine as long as there isn't hostile pursuit;
males will usually attempt to mount
for either dominance or reproduction, depending on the gender
of the other chin; with an M/F pairing the male will emit a
mating call and there will be soft cooing and tail wagging on
his part. This is their courting ritual and some males that
are still uncertain of gender may do this with another male.
Compatible behaviors include: "Talking," where they
bob heads while touching noses and mouths. This is often the
first sign of compatibility and when it happens without either
chin getting alarmed or defensive, then this demonstration of
mutual trust and interest is an excellent sign that the chins
will ultimately be compatible.
"Grooming"
the other chin (be aware that this can also be a prelude
to mounting,
which can instigate fighting) around the face, ears, eyes,
etc., is an expression of affection. Sometimes it appears that
the chin doing the grooming is "eating the other chin's
face" and this makes some people a bit nervous, but grooming
is markedly different from an attack, grooming is done carefully
and courteously.
Sitting or resting right next to each other shows that they're
relaxed in each other's presence and this behavior pretty much
seals the bond, means that the chins have achieved compatibility.
|
| 5) |
Although
in an M/F introduction it is typical for the male (neutered
or not) to attempt to mount
the female, for her to react coyly or hostilely (often the
latter) in response to his advances, and then for her to
eventually get won over by his wooing (mating call, tail
wagging) and persistent, sometimes aggressive attempts to
mount... if the chinparent's plan is to have the two successfully
cohabitate after introductions, then it is necessary to discourage
some of the more extreme and potentially injurious behavior
that can surface during the courtship ritual.
Therefore, if a chin attacks,
intimidates, or hostilely pursues (some mounting
and urine-spraying
are typical, give the chins a chance to work that out, but it
shouldn't be persistent or aggressive) the other chin, then
the offending chin must immediately be removed
from the large cage (or small room), put into the show
cage (or carrier) for time-out, and then the show cage
is returned to inside the large cage with the towel wrapped
around it, as before. The other chin can remain free inside
the large cage (or small room), but don't allow the free
chin to antagonize his attacker, it needs to be clear that the
attacker's behavior is being reprimanded, not that you're setting
up the attacker to be taunted and tormented because you're playing
favorites.
Time-outs should be at least 20-30 minutes long, to make an
impression that anti-social
behavior incurs consequences, but it can be longer if needed,
up to an hour. Usually one, then the other chin will misbehave
to test your fairness and it's in the best interests of both
that time-out is used because addressing anti-social behavior
from the start has long term benefits once the chins are cohabitating.
Time-out curbs or "trains" the chins out of anti-social behaviors,
demonstrating to (and reassuring) both chins that you
will not allow either to subjugate or hurt the other. Also,
attaching a consequence to the disapproving tone you should
use when they begin to antagonize each other will make it much
more likely that they'll heed your vocal coaching next time.
NOTE: If physical
injury (wounds,
missing digits, etc; fur-slip and urine-spraying are not injurious)
is inflicted before you remove
the attacker for time-out, the chins will
no longer be compatible because this is too serious a
violation of trust. Your role as coach (vocalizing encouragement)
and referee (using time-outs) must be extremely fastidious
so as to always intervene in time to prevent injury. Some people
expect conclusionary evidence to present itself right away in
an introduction, they mistakenly believe that when the chins
don't get along right off, it's game over. But as long as there's
not physical injury, there is no conclusionary evidence of incompatibility,
so there is still a possibility of working things out.
|
| 6) |
After
the time-out period is up, release the chin in the show cage,
again simultaneously removing the show cage (or carrier)
from the large cage (or small room) so that both
chins are roaming the large cage together again. As long as
neither is hostilely pursuing, intimidating or attacking the
other, they can remain free but if not, then the offending chin
is given time-out as previously described. Once they have been
consistently exhibiting compatible behaviors (with access
to all levels of the cage) for an hour or more, and you
feel confident that they are ready to cohabitate, then let them
stay together in the large cage under very close supervision
for the next 24 hours. If using the "wire carrier in a
small room" alternative, the chins would then be put into
a just cleaned large cage.
If they seem able to share a wheel,
return that to them, and provide other distractions like a variety
of chew
toys and music or TV.
However, and this is very important, do
not put hideaways
(tube, hammock,
house- no
plastic) OR shelves/ perches back into their cage for
the week immediately following introductions. There is
often a tendency to get territorial,
to try to barricade or gain leverage over the other chin once
they're cohabitating and if this occurs it will completely undo
the trust that was achieved during introductions.
Should this happen, however, as long as physical injury has
not been inflicted, the chins can be put through another introductory
session to reestablish their bond. Withholding hideaways, shelves
or perches for that first week also ensures that the newly bonded
chins will snuggle with
each other during that time, getting used to the other chin's
close presence. After the first week, return shelves/ perches
and be sure to provide a hideaway for each cohabitating chin
in order to prevent
conflicts, because even chins who live together and get
along well sometimes want their own space.
|
| 7) |
Chinchillas
are extremely intelligent,
and they can learn the names of their cagemates. To encourage
that as well as to reinforce group
bonding, try this technique: Reach into their cage to pick
up one of the newly bonded chins and if he runs over to his
cagemate, say, "Good boy (sub name of the cagemate)
! You're protecting (sub name of the chin that doesn't want
to be picked up), good boy!" Then back off, close the
cage door and walk away. This might seem a bit silly, but it
demonstrates to them that their show of solidarity, their bond
is valued and respected by their chinparent, thus reinforcing
their bond and encouraging future solidarity. This is a helpful
trick to use if newly bonded chins start to act up toward each
other, say if one is edging the other away from the food dish
or is trying to ambush the other chin while he's using the wheel.
Of course, use discretion and only do this a few times in the
beginning of their cohabitation to help reinforce bonding. |

THE SOCIAL DISPOSITION INDICATOR
(socially
negative, socially
positive, socially
inexperienced, conclusion)
Also see Adoption
Source, or Background, and Behavioral Expectations
In the years
that we've closely observed and conducted introductions, we've come
to realize that the prime indicator of how a chin will react in an
introductory session depends on what his past experience has been
with his own kind and whether that experience has been positive, negative
or whether the chin lacks social experience altogether.
Experience, whether for good or bad, predisposes both people and animals
to have particular expectations of future encounters. While people
can choose to excuse or dismiss a bad experience, animals cannot.
They are restricted by instinct, biologically "programmed"
if you will, to learn from the past and to apply what they've learned
to future situations. It's essential for their self-preservation that
they do this in order to anticipate and react to a perceived problem
before they suffer the consequences, regardless of whether people
are able to realize this and empathize with their point of view.
Socially Negative
Simply put, a chinchilla that has had bad experiences with other chins
in the past, who has been attacked,
intimidated, or hostilely pursued will be predisposed to exhibit
likewise to other chins in future. Chins tend to eventually learn
how to fight back, but not all anti-social
behavior is learned, sometimes it is instinctual to a high-strung
or oversensitive chin. A chin that has been attacked, intimidated,
or hostilely pursued in the past may or may not need provocation in
the present, chins can strike preemptively.
When a chin adopts anti-social behavior toward other chins, this does
not make him "bad" or "mean," but in rare
situations when a chin is severely socially negative, when
the anti-social behavior extends FAR beyond the usual bit of dominating
or scuffling to the point where there's a definite intent to kill,
such a chin is best off neutered
to reduce his extreme hormonal drive, or should remain a single chin.
But nearly always, a socially negative chin can be trained out of
anti-social behavior with an introductory
method that directly addresses and curbs this behavior.

Socially Positive
Chinchillas that have had only positive social experiences with
their own kind will normally have a positive social disposition toward
other chins, unless a high-strung
or oversensitive temperament predisposes them toward anti-social
behavior. A socially positive chin will anticipate that other chins
are friendly, he'll rush in to greet and groom or casually meander
about during introductions, he'll even turn his back on the other
chin out of trust, without apprehension or fear of negative consequences.
Socially positive chins are outgoing, unassuming and accepting of
the other chin during introductions, after all, their past hasn't
taught them to be guarded or fearful.
Socially Inexperienced
Chinchillas with very little (littermates) to no social
experience with their own kind are socially inexperienced and the
way they react in introductions reveals that: they're generally excited
about getting to meet the other chin and they express naivete, interest
and curiosity, they don't know what to expect in return but their
approach is open and willing. This is why the advice to pair a recently-weaned
chin with a mellower middle-aged or senior chin (see: Estimating
Chinchilla Age) often does work, because a recently-weaned
chin is usually socially inexperienced, provided he wasn't abused
by his littermates or by cagemates in a pet store situation.
Ranch chinchillas are a prime example of socially inexperience. On
the ranch they are housed in their own separate cage compartments
after weaning, and it they are put into the ranch's breeding program
they get very little socialization by virtue of the polygamous breeding
system (used by most U.S. ranchers), which bypasses the need
for introductions because the male can come and go from the female's
cage at will while she cannot.
We have been saving
ranch chinchillas from pelting since 2004, per Pet
Homes For Ranchies, and we always spontaneously pair up chinchillas
in carriers for the ride home to begin their adjustment
period. By the time we arrive, a few hours later, they have already
begun to form social dispositions for positive or negative based on
this brief period of socialization, their first impressions, and many
have to be consequently re-grouped. It should be understood that our
experience may not be representative of ranches everywhere, but we
have had corroboration by others who save ranchies.
Over the next few days, as their social experience accumulates, their
reaction to their fellow ranchies becomes more definite, resulting
in continued defensive, hostile (socially negative) or compatible
(socially positive) behaviors that we watch closely and use
to guide us in yet more re-grouping until everyone is happily coexisting.
Social inexperience is a temporary state, because once a chin encounters
other chins the experience shapes him to become socially positive
or negative.
Conclusion
When a chinchilla's adoption
source is something other than a ranch, when it's a pet breeder,
pet store, rescue or re-homed source, then they've probably developed
a social disposition, either for positive or negative. Socially positive
or inexperienced chins are the easiest to introduce, provided that
both chins to be introduced are of one of those social dispositions.
When that's the case, introductions may not be necessary at all, as
long as the chins' temperaments are also compatible.
Overall, it is more common for a chin to be socially negative than
socially positive or inexperienced, but in any case a chin's social
disposition doesn't come to the surface until introductions are underway,
and this is why it is absolutely imperative that introductions are
always closely supervised and the method used does
not put the chins at undue risk for stress-related shock
or physical injury (wounds,
missing digits, etc; fur-slip and urine-spraying are not injurious).
|
|