| Regular out-of-cage exercise is ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY for maintaining the health and happiness of your pet chinchilla, please see Chuffy's story. Under normal circumstances a healthy chinchilla can have unlimited exercise, it is NOT dangerous or harmful as long as some basic, common sense precautions are observed. Exercise time is THE time for bonding and interacting with chinchillas, if you don't have time for it, please consider re-homing, because constant confinement without relief for such intelligent, naturally active creatures is simply cruel. EXERCISE AND ENVIRONMENTAL STIMULI  (chuffy's
story, exercise for breeding chinchillas)Unfortunately, in recent years, a few prominent pet breeders have begun carelessly criticizing exercise and suggesting that chinchillas should have their exercise limited "for their own good." The people who advise this are apparently unaware that most pet chins already ARE under-exercised. It's a serious problem that rescuers internationally can attest to as a result of seeing scores of maladjusted, poorly chins that have suffered with little to no exercise for sometimes years before being dumped at rescue. "No time for my chin" is one of the top three reasons that chins are surrendered to rescue. Sometimes the advice to "limit exercise" is a lie of convenience, because exercising a large herd of breeding chins can be very demanding and time-consuming, other times exercise is ignorantly blamed for problems that occur during playtime, such as seizures (see: Pre-Existing Conditions) and accidents associated with not chin-proofing, supervising, or acknowledging territorialism. Such problems are NOT THE FAULT OF EXERCISE itself and no chin should be punished by having their exercise limited to suit their owner's lack of diligence in observing basic, often common sense precautions. Pet chinchillas are PETS, not livestock and as such they're entitled to better treatment than they got on fur farms, or "ranches." Even though ranches neglect exercise because they prioritize business interests over the chins' need for exercise, they too know that exercise is fundamental to chinchilla health and well-being. Chinchillas.com, associated with the Ritterspach ranch that's been in business for over thirty years, makes this selling point about the benefits of exercise, "Wheels can be used to minimize or eliminate obesity in non-producing and slow producing breeding females." And at one point in time ranches had more spacious cages with exercise wheels built right in (ref- .doc, "Chinchilla Care," 1962, Houston and Prestwich, p.203, figure 44). Chinchillas are not "display" pets, like fish, and they are far too intelligent to cope with incessant confinement, it DOES adversely affect both their health and behavior, and any qualified professional (veterinarian) can verify that. We have done rescue work since 2000 and have conducted Pet Homes For Ranchies projects since 2004. We know from the hundreds of chins we've worked with (and the thirty-plus we maintain and regularly exercise at our rescue) that those who have been deprived of exercise are among the worst off, and it's not until you take them out of their cage and begin to try to socialize (sociaizing is for chins that lack experience with people) or behaviorally rehabiliate them (for chins that have had negative experiences with people) that you realize just how unhealthy and disturbed they really are as a result of what has been, for them, nothing short of punishing incarceration.
The damage done is evident in both their state of health (lack of muscle tone, strength and motility) and their attitude and behavior. The manifestation of their despair ranges from being frightened (sometimes mortally terrified), apathetic, depressed and withdrawn to extreme anxiety and anti-social behavior (urine-spraying, biting), to being stressed to the point of practicing neurotic habits such as fur-biting, pacing in circles or somersaulting. Chinchillas from a rescue situation have usually spent their imprisonment in something larger than the battery cages that ranchies reside in; the tiny area that ranchies are restricted to results in their not even knowing how to jump or run, how to judge height or depth, and when first given the freedom to explore a playroom they instead hop or creep along at a slow, tentative pace that is pitiful to behold. Thankfully, with time they work up to leaping, racing and enjoying playtime with the best of them. Chinchillas need exercise at all stages of life and they can have supervised out-of-cage exercise as soon as they're big enough to be away from their mother for extended periods of time (precautions must always be observed!). Chins cannot get "too much" exercise, they will not "run themselves to death," they're very intelligent animals with the sense to stop and rest when they need to. It's absurd to suggest otherwise, this is why there are no records of fur trappers strolling across the Andes, gathering up the carcasses of foolhardy exercise casualties; chinchillas would have become exctinct long ago if exercise were lethal. In the many years that we've done rescue and given exercise to rescues from serious neglect cases and ranchies who've never known out-of-cage exercise before, we've never had any reason to impose limits on exercise. We allow ranchies (photos from PHFR 2007: playtime 1, playtime 2, playtime 3, playtime 4) to run for sometimes hours at a time, even on their first run, and we (and other pet breeders and rescuers we network with) have never had a problem "caused" by exercise itself. Any professional expert, any exotics specialist vet, will confirm, as ours did, that regular exercise is absolutely VITAL to maintaining a socialized, healthy, happy chinchilla that is capable of at least average longevity (10-15 yrs in captivity) without frequent (and potentially expensive) health concerns. Exercise increases mental alertness, physical motility and overall muscle tone and strength, it keeps stress levels low which in turn benefits the immune system, and, perhaps the greatest benefit of all: FREEDOM IS *LOVE* TO A CHINCHILLA! Even if they aren't on the move every minute they're out, they're still getting the freedom to choose, the freedom to have some control over where they go and what they do during out-of-cage playtime, freedom they don't get otherwise. Animals value their freedom EVERY BIT as much as man does, and you WILL see the positive difference it makes in your chin's attitude and ability to trust and relate to you when he is given out-of-cage exercise, the effect is immediate and wonderful. Chinchillas were meant to have the run of the Andes mountain range and nature provided them with strong hind legs in preparation for a LIFETIME of exercise: springing, jumping, hopping (chinchillas are rock hoppers in the wild!), ricocheting, running carefree without any imposed limits. Domestic chinchillas, who are kept in an artificial cage environment, should have all the out-of-cage exercise that their chinparent is able to offer.
Chinchillas are prey animals in the wild and it is true that they do appreciate some routine and tranquility in their domestic lifestyle, however, monotony, a lack of activity, and an environment without interest or enrichment are definitely not in their best interests. Environmental stimulation is important in moderate amounts, it keeps the bright, inquisitive chinchilla mind occupied when they're not actively engaged in out-of-cage exercise or interaction with their chinparent. 
Chinchillas truly enjoy both music and TV, see The
TV Attraction, TV during waking hours goes a long way in helping
chins cope when they're stuck in their cage as opposed to being allowed
out to play.
Mild music styles, such as bossa nova, jazz, blues, soft rock, classical,
celtic, folk and reggae are good anytime, and especially soothing
when played softly in the background during sleeping
hours. A large cage
to accomodate running and playing, a variety of chew
toys, at least one hideaway
per chin and a cage wheel
will help decrease tension and boredom inside the cage, preventing
stress-related health and behavioral problems
as well as cagemate conflicts.
Chinchillas are treasured as pets for their affectionate, sociable personalities, their keen intelligence and abundant playfulness, all of which comes to life when they receive regular exercise, interaction, and an environment that stimulates their senses and engages their mind. Exercise For Breeding Chinchillas Whether using a polygamous or a paired breeding system, regular exercise is essential to both the breeding male and female's health and well-being, see previous article for details. Females in breeding should have out-of-cage exercise without their breeding collar. Pregnant or nursing females that get (always observe precautions!) some out-of cage exercise with human bonding time will be less stressed and will model a positive, receptive attitude toward people that in turn will affect their kit's ability to bond with people. Overly-stressed chinchilla mothers have been known to snap at their kits, sometimes causing injury, and being forced to remain in the confines of their breeding cage without any relief from the constant demands of their young can push some mothers over the edge. Obviously, there are times when a breeding female needs to be near her young and shouldn't be separated from them, a responsible breeder will know when it's appropriate to let the mother have some relief and when not to interrupt the mother and kit's bonding and nursing times. When a breeding program is focused on having and producing healthy, well-socialized chinchillas, then EVERYONE benefits: the chins who have their health and appreciate the company of the people who care for them, the adoptive chinparents whose pet is a source of joy rather than being difficult and sickly, and the pet breeder whose healthy, well-socialized chinchillas are a credit to their breeding program. CHINCHILLA CHAT LINE'S ADVICE (ref- scroll to view advice about exercise in general) "I and John Bower (Veterinary Hospital Group) concur in this: whatever pet, from a stick insect to a horse, must have a lifestyle to mimic what they would have in a wild state. Essential to this is what I term 'external exercise'. All should have this experience on a day to day basis. Even a fly or spider may travel miles during one day, so captive animals (pets) must have the chance of exercise, not only to improve fitness but also psyche. "Pregnant animals having exercise will improve their terms and produce healthier offspring which, after birth, delight in exercising outside the restricted accommodation and site of their play environment. Opportunities given to offspring for external exercising (from practically the minute they are born) makes for a better pet in later life. Fur-biting and spinning around in a comer, huddling up in a crouched position, shaking of the head from side to side, lots of sleeping (unless ill or in advanced pregnancy) or general lethargy, are all indications of a bored creature which needs the stimulation of exercise and adventure, so plenty of things to do should be offered within the exercise areas. For a happier, healthier pet, I cannot over-recommend external exercise." EXERCISE WHEELS (safety criteria, suppliers, reviews & demonstrations) A large cage to accomodate running and playing, a variety of chew toys, a cage wheel and TV during waking hours are all strongly recommended to keep your chin's intelligent, busy mind occupied when he's not actively engaged in out-of-cage exercise and interaction. Exercise balls are inadvisable for several reasons: their plastic construction, the largest size is still too small for most chinchillas, there is a strong possibility for overheating and if the chin pees, he'll be rolling in his own urine. It is very important to measure your chin's cage door (unless the top can be opened) to ensure that the wheel can be put into the cage! An exercise wheel for the cage is definitely recommended, however, your chin will still require out-of-cage exercise time three times a week for at least an hour each time. Playtime IS bonding time! Be aware that wheels with a pronounced edge or "lip" around them (Leo Braun, Silver Surfer) may entice some chins to gnaw it, eventually wearing holes in the metal. To date, we haven't heard of this causing any problem for the chin, but it does put some serious wear on the wheel, see this article with photos by Fuzzy Chins. If your chin doesn't take to a wheel immediately, don't assume that he just "doesn't like" wheels and that the wheel is unnecessary. Be patient and give your chin a chance to adjust, because a chin who's never had a wheel or a certain type of wheel can take a matter of weeks, maybe months, to try it and like it. It's typical for chins to be reluctant or suspicious of change or something new, but this doesn't mean that they don't like it, they just need time to adjust. It's generally acknowledged that some chins, especially seniors, take longer to adapt to the Saucer Wheel, but we have found that once chins get the hang of it, they really take to the Saucer enthusiastically and often.
Wheel Safety Criteria Also see Chinformation Organization's thread on wheel safety 
RUNNING SURFACE: A running surface that is solid (NO rungs!)
or made of wire mesh
that is ½" X ½" or smaller, to prevent foot, leg and toe injuries.
NO PLASTIC: Plastic, hard or soft, can cause a FATAL intestinal
blockage if accidentally swallowed.
SPOKES ARE LETHAL: Spokes act like whirling blades when in
motion on either side of the wheel, a chin that attempts to jump on
or off a moving "suicide wheel" faces serious injury
(snapped arms or legs), even death
(broken neck). We know of people who've always used suicide
wheels with their chins but that still doesn't make these wheels "ok,"
it only serves to show how smart chins are- that the chin carefully
examined the wheel and how it works right from the start, perceived
the risks inherent in using it, and proceeded with caution. Nevertheless,
this is truly just an accident waiting to happen and it does indeed
happen even with chins that have always used them, in our
rescue work we've seen the amputees that result.With a safe wheel, a chin will routinely jump on and off while the wheel is in motion, in fact, that's sometimes part of the fun. Our boy Bear gets his wheel going until the screws at the inside center of his Leo Braun form a circle from the speed of the spinning wheel, then he jumps off and watches until the circle "disappears" and becomes just four screws again, which is his cue to jump back on. Chins that have previously enjoyed a safe wheel are particularly prone to suffer an accident when they try a suicide wheel because they're not accustomed to the inherent dangers. From a fellow rescue worker: "The lady who gave him to me [tripod] had him for 18 months and he went to her with all 4 legs... she said he had a rat wheel (the one that they go in and run with the bars), I said it would be best to remove it as chins have been known to slip and break a leg. She said he's been ok in it for 2 days so she was leaving it there. Five days later she called saying he was at the vet getting his leg removed as he slipped!"
WHEEL SIZE: there is some debate as to whether a 12" wheel
could cause distress or injury to a chin's back. When we
asked our exotics specialist vet,
she said no, that it wouldn't cause any problems. And in this
photo of one of our smaller chins on the 12" Leo Braun wheel,
she is able to stretch out completely because the wheel is a full
12" with the side open. HOWEVER, the small standing wheels with
spokes that pet stores commonly sell are NOT good for a chin to run
on, if not for the unnaturally cramped position that a chin must get
in to use them, for the side spokes and runged running surface.
Wheel Suppliers Also see eRodent for extensive, detailed coverage of chinchilla wheel options, suppliers and reviews The three sizes of Flying Saucer Wheel explained on Meadowbrook Chinchilla's (manufacturer) page, scroll to view Canadian Exotic Pets, ships to Canada and USA Flying Saucer Wheel in Standard size Chinchillas.com E-Store, ships worldwide 12", 14" and 16" Silver Surfer Exercise Wheel/ Flying Saucer Wheel in Small and Standard sizes ChinWorld, ships worldwide Flying Saucer Wheel in Standard size/ 14" Ed Exercise Wheel Flower Town Chinchillas, ships worldwide Flying Saucer Wheel in Small size ForCHINate Chins Chinchilla Rescue, ships worldwide Homemade Wheels For Other Living Things Flying Saucer Wheel in Standard Size John Hopewell Marketing, UK 12" and 16" Steel Rodent Exercise Wheels with 5" Running Track Julie's Chin Wheel, UK 15" and has "precision roller bearing with seals to prevent dust ingress" Meadowbrook Chinchillas Flying Saucer Wheels in Small, Standard and Large/ Wheel care information, ball bearing life and replacement Ontario Chinchilla Association, ships worldwide Flying Saucer Wheel, Standard size Quality Cage Company Flying Saucer Wheel, Standard size/ 15" Chin Spin Quest Haven Pets 14" Quiet Heavy Duty Safety Wheels (natural wood is best, comes in wire or solid flooring) Totoro Supplies, Hong Kong 12" and 15" Leo Braun Wheel Wheel Reviews & Demonstrations Makers of the Flying Saucer wheel Meadowbrook Chinchillas Photos, report on Chinchilla Go Round, Flying Saucer, Leo Braun wheels Darren's Chinchilla Haven Photo, review of Leo Braun wheel Rat & Mouse Club Photos, reviews of Leo Braun and Flying Saucer e-Rodent Wheel data, 2 wheel types compared Chris and Sue's Home Page Wheel data, measuring running frequency over one week Lisa's Chinchillas DEMONSTRATIONS: MOVIES OF CHINS ON WHEELS! Meadowbrook Chinchillas- Flying Saucer Wheel Peanut and Snoopy running on the Saucer wheel at the same time! (6meg) Using Media Player, this shows Michelle A's boys at night with a flashlight trained on them so as not to disturb their show, but it's still amazing to watch how they've coordinated their efforts, what smart boys! USING A HARNESS by Mountain Ash Chinchillas/ Debbie's Newfoundland Chinchillas The best harness type that I've found for chins has straps that go around the belly and neck and then connect along the back. Because of the belly strap, this is definitely not adviseable for breeding females. You should practice often inside the house before taking them out for the first time, and not all chins will eventually adapt to a harness. 
You can't walk them as you would a dog, instead, follow them as they scout around. I've found that it's a great way to have them along when I go for my walk- they love to look out, get fussed over by other walkers, and I don't have to worry if they make a sudden jump, since they do get startled by strange noises. Harnesses that may be suitable for chins: USA- Doctors Foster and Smith/ UK- Pet Company, Petutopia OUT-OF-CAGE EXERCISE TIME (chin-proofing and other precautions, eyesight and agility, escape artists, if a chin is stepped on) Also see: Playtime Bonding, Catching and Handling Your Chinchilla, and chinchillaworld's awesome playroom! Chins MUST receive daily attention and interaction, and if a chin's only opportunity for exercise is out-of-cage playtime (i.e., if he has no exercise wheel), then he will need that for AT LEAST a full hour, every day. Even with an exercise wheel, your chinchilla will still need out-of-cage exercise at least three times a week for an hour each time. As long as the following precautions are observed, out-of-cage exercise time can be safe, beneficial to your chinchilla and... THE BEST TIME FOR BONDING WITH YOU! Chin-Proofing and Other Precautions (territorialism, chin-proofing, supervision, pre-existing conditions) Under normal circumstances, healthy chinchillas of any age (kits should be big enough to be away from their mother for extended periods of time) should be able to enjoy as much out-of-cage exercise as they're allowed. Some people have mistakenly blamed exercise for playtime seizures (see: Pre-Existing Conditions) as well as accidents associated with not chin-proofing, supervising, or acknowledging territorialism. It is important to realize that when bad things happen during exercise, exercise itself is NOT to blame, and it is the chinparent's responsibility to address any problems associated with out-of-cage exercise time; a chinchilla should never have their exercise limited to pay for people's lack of diligence. Exercise is not dangerous or harmful to chinchillas, it is a positive, absolutely essential benefit to their physical and psychological well-being PROVIDED THAT the chinparent observes simple precautions such as these:
TERRITORIALISMChinchillas are territorial by nature! Some are much more territorial than others, but if you have more than one bonded group it is your responsibility to accomodate and respect their territorialism in order to avoid cagemate conflicts or anti-social (biting, urine-spraying) behavior that some chins may direct at their chinparent to convey their extreme stress and agitation: 1) Only let bonded cagemates out together for out-of-cage exercise time, do not mix groups. If different groups use the same playroom, sprinkle Baby Cornstarch Powder or Arm & Hammer Baking Soda (no Baby Powder, nothing containing talc!) on carpet urine stains and vacuum the room well between uses, then have a carpet cleaning periodically. 2) Chinchillas do have a territorial range or "comfort zone" that extends a few feet out from their cage in the directions they can see (covering cages, as described on Routines, reduces stress and helps prevent cagemate conflicts), and by instinct they want to defend and secure that immediate territory. For this reason, the playroom must be entirely separate from the cage room, because an outsider wandering near other cages is in danger of getting bitten on the nose or toes, and his presence can instigate dominance mounting (which can lead to fights) as the lead chin in the caged groups attempts to reestablish rank and control in response to the territorial violation, or "intrusion." 3) Always introduce chins before cohabitation to prevent potentially deadly fighting, and never use an introduction method that will antagonize their sense of territorialism or put their safety in jeopardy.
CHIN-PROOFING (phases of exploration) Chin-Proofing Guides: Azure Chinchillas, Chinchillarama's cached page (.doc), Dunja's House of Chinchillas, Kessler-Chins.com, Lowcountry Chinchillas Chin-proofing is for preventing foreseeable accidents, playtime supervision is required for preventing the unforseeable. The chin-proofed playroom needs to be large, about 12'x12' or more, to accomodate running, jumping and ricocheting off the walls. If there is nothing to interact with in the chin's play area then he will quickly become bored and begin gnawing the walls or looking for mischief. Chins need playthings (cat towers, wooden boxes, tubes, etc., see supplier sites, avoid chewing hazards) for exploring, perching, hiding under and so forth to prevent boredom. Be creative and expect to change playthings periodically to maintain interest. Tile, wood, linoleum or other smooth floor surfaces are not suitable for a playroom because they don't provide traction for running and may be stained by urine. Carpet is soft, provides traction and urine stains are easily removed with regular soap and water. You can put out a pan or tray in a corner of the playroom that contains some of the chin's used litter, this may "litter train" him so that he urinates there during playtime, but not all chins will take the hint. Chinchillas continually leave excretory droppings that are small, hard, odorless and easy to vacuum up; we have never heard of chins being trained to control that function. Bathrooms are NOT a good place for playtime, for several reasons: tile floors and porcelain features are too slick and slippery for chinchilla feet, and there's usually too little room for any real exercise. Even with the toilet lid down, they can still head for the tub ledge and try jumping there, where sharp (razor) or heavy objects (shampoo bottle) are just out of sight range until after they've leapt. Bathrooms are also frequently damp and humid from shower use, providing prime conditions for mold and fungus growth, and what's not readily observable to us can still be discovered by a curious chin. The chin pictured here escaped from the playroom and found her way into the bathroom later. The chin's playroom should have no electrical cords or other chewing hazards, but in the event that that's unavoidable, wrap those things (furniture, cords, plastic, etc.) in towels or sheets (no strings, fringe or loose weave) in a secure manner (safety pins or duct tape can help, also see cord protectors) so that the chin can't move it aside, otherwise he WILL eventually get around or behind it. Furniture only needs to be covered around the base and legs, not the entire unit. It's a good idea to get on the floor and look around the room from what will be the chin's point of view, it can lead you to secure things you wouldn't have noticed otherwise. You can try spraying pet "training aids" such as Fooey or Bitter Apple along baseboards (skirtboards) or window sills to help prevent gnawing there, people have had varying degrees of success with these and they have to be reapplied between playroom uses. The door must be kept shut and a notice (see Cheeky Chinchilla's door hanger, it prevents accidents!) should be posted on the other side alerting those who would open the door to proceed cautiously, there is a chin playing inside. Don't assume because your chin doesn't immediately start chewing, that he's "not a chewer" and won't ever do so during playtime because...  There
are PHASES of exploration:1) Scouting can take anywhere from just the first time in new territory to several sessions, depending on the chin and how many items there are to explore in the room. The chin will thoroughly explore everything, making note of the position of objects therein (chins "map out" their terrain and store that in memory rather than depending solely on sight, later this map enables them to maneuver effortlessly at top speed) and their attributes, how they can be used for fun. A chin may tend to stay under furniture and keep a low profile at first, until he gains knowledge of the room and confidence in his ability to master it. Eventually, he'll prefer high places that give him greater leverage from which to anticipate and react in his surroundings, and he'll make note of tight places that will allow him to hide out of sight when he wants to. 2) Gnawing occurs when the chin becomes better acquainted with the objects in the playroom and is ready to test their chewing potential. Chinchillas are rodents and they gnaw to keep their continuously growing teeth filed down, they also may gnaw recreationally as a way of exploring their environment or to satisfy their curiosity. Gnawing is instinctual and chins cannot be reliably trained not to gnaw at certain times or places (they'll just gnaw softly or when you're not paying attention). Chins may gnaw seldom or voraciously depending on the individual chin, and it should be understood that anything exposed is viewed by them as having been made available for their gnawing pleasure. Place a small food dish and water dish (chins should normally use a water bottle but during playtime they can adapt) in the playroom to help lessen the instinct to test everything for edibility. 3) Mischief-making occurs after the room has been scouted and tasted. Then it's time for an in-depth analysis, to see if there's anything left to explore like hiding spots or something that wasn't properly chin-proofed. THIS is the phase when the chinparent is most likely to be caught off-guard, this phase is the true test of chin-proofing. Just when you've assumed that the chin "can't reach" certain exposed electrical cords or "isn't interested in" something he shouldn't gnaw on or "won't fit" behind or under something in the room, suddenly, there he is... If your chin is getting into something that he shouldn't, snap your fingers or clap your hands once or twice and say "no" in a firm, not loud or frightening, manner. Use this tactic sparingly or its effect will diminish. 
SUPERVISIONUNlike with such pets as dogs or cats, a chinchilla's out-of-cage activity MUST be supervised at ALL times to prevent UNforseeable accidents. Inside the playroom, move slowly and shuffle your feet to prevent accidentally stepping on your chin. This is extremely important because some chins are especially fond of chasing feet, racing between and around them. Also pay constant attention to where the chin is at any given moment because a chin who's really enjoying his playtime can jump or make a sudden mad dash without perceiving the danger of being underfoot. It is generally inadviseable to allow other pets to have access to your chinchilla during his out-of-cage exercise time. A larger pet may get overly excited from watching the chin race about and rough play and accidents could ensue.
PRE-EXISTING CONDITIONS We have discussed this with our vet who agrees, out-of-cage exercise is undeniably necessary and beneficial but problematic pre-existing conditions (heat, bloodsugar imbalance, etc.,) can manifest themselves during exercise. Just as a person who has underlying health problems- say, a weak heart or diabetes- may collapse while exercising in their condition (or as a result of imposed conditions, like exercising in a room that's too hot), the same can happen to chins, and once the pre-existing condition has been successfully addressed, exercise is once again safe and purely beneficial. If your chinchilla has a seizure during playtime, wrap him snuggly in a lightweight towel or blanket (no strings, fringe or loose weave) and take him to your exotics specialist vet for immediate examination. While there, troubleshoot with your vet to determine and treat the REAL problem, the underlying cause of your chin's seizure. If seizures during out-of-cage exercise (or any other time) happen frequently with chinchillas in your care, something in their husbandry or environment is seriously wrong and needs immediate attention. We have been chinparents since 1997 and have worked with hundreds of chinchillas from all backgrounds, including rescues who came from serious neglect and ranchies who had no experience with out-of-cage exercise prior to coming to us. We often exercise our chins for hours at a time, and we have never had a single playtime seizure in all these years. Seizures aren't that common, but awareness is key to preventing them, and here is a starting point from which to do that:  A
chinchilla should always have an initial
vet exam to determine his state of health. Sick, injured, or post-operative
chins should not be given out-of-cage exercise time without the express
permission of your exotics specialist vet. Pregnant
or nursing females should be watched over very protectively and especially
in the case of a nursing mother, should be given shorter periods of
out-of-cage exercise so as not to interfere with their maternal role,
see: Exercise
for Breeding Chinchillas.
Temperature
control in the playroom is imperative, high heat and/ or humidity
can easily lead to heatstroke or seizures because a chinchilla's body
temperature increases somewhat during exercise, making them more susceptible. Malnutrition
(see hyperlinked article for details) can cause seizures. Chinchillas
should not be given sugary
treats (raisins, etc.) too much or too often, ESPECIALLY
around playtime (an hour before or after), because this can
lead to a bloodsugar-related seizure.
If "rewarding" your chinchilla is your way of getting his
cooperation to come and go from his cage, use a healthier
treat that is not high in sugar, such as an unsweetened Wheat
'N Bran mini Shredded
Wheat biscuit (read the warning that goes with feeding grains).Chinchilla Eyesight and Agility Also see: Senior Health and Cataracts Sometimes a chin can be just plain clumsy, but if he frequently runs head-first into objects in a setting that's familiar and basically unchanged, and if he often follows the outline (furniture or baseboards) of the room when running about, then there is an eyesight deficiency at hand, perhaps blindness. Cataracts may or may not be present, they're most often found in seniors and appear like a cloudy film over the dark part of the eye, reducing visibility and potentially causing blindness. 
A chinchilla's eyes aren't used as much in navigation as a day dwelling animal's would be. Chins rely strongly on their long, sensitive whiskers and their ability to mentally map out their environment so that they can practically cruise with their eyes closed by night. When chins are unfamiliar with their surroundings, if they have changed or are new, they will normally take time to mentally map out the area. If they just start racing about first off, then expect some collisions. Our first chin, Ryo-Ohki, would go slowly around a new room, checking out every nook and cranny before doing laps at rocket speed, her grace and agility were flawless.
Escape Artists If your chin escapes (see stories on Chinchillas2Home) from you during out-of-cage exercise time and you do know where he is hiding at, try to block-off or isolate the area and ensure that it is chin-proofed, for when the chin does come out of his hiding spot. Say he's in the bathroom, for certain, maybe under the sink cabinet (photo of Marlene's Adventure). Close the door, put the toilet seat down and unplug and remove (from the room) everything that has an electrical cord or is sharp, such as a razor or nail clippers. Also remove anything that is heavy (shampoo bottle, bubblebath, etc) that sits around the tub periphery- because if the chin gets out, he'll explore and you don't want him jumping around the tub and knocking into something that could land on his head. The ChinCare webmasters can speak from experience there- chins ALWAYS head for the bathtub! If the floor is not carpeted you can place a blanket on the floor so that if he does leap about, he'll have a soft place to land. Eventually he'll come out of his hiding place and you'll either hear or see him- just remember that if you must open a door, do so VERY cautiously and block the entrance to his hiding place with your hand before he can run back in.
If a Chin Is Stepped On If your chinchilla is accidentally stepped on during out-of-cage exercise time, do NOT feel him over to detect injury, that could cause further damage. Do NOT waste time on forums soliciting advice from non-professionals or seeing if he'll be responsive to treats or stimuli. DO immediately wrap him gently in a blanket (not a heavy one if it is warm outside) this will restrict movement until he can be examined by your exotics specialist vet as well as keep him warm if he's in shock. Try to get someone to drive you to your exotics specialist vet or to an emergency vet clinic so that you can hold the chin securely to keep him from being jostled on the drive there. If that's not an option, put him in a carrier, blanket and all to help immobilize him, and drive carefully but quickly. The chin must be x-rayed. As prey animals, they naturally try to mask pain or injury and may not show the extent of the damage done by responding with sounds or reflex when professionally checked over, an x-ray is absolutely necessary for a thorough examination. Once the vet has determined a course of action for recovery and the chin is back home, he will need a single level cage for the recovery process if he has any broken bones, see the recovery setup instructions noted in the Neutering section. ALLOW HIM TO REST undisturbed, don't expect him to act lively or eat much, that is normal, let him recuperate in peace. Contact the vet immediately if he stops eating, drinking, urinating or pooping for more than twelve hours. The recovery setup should be located where it is relatively quiet and peaceful, away from prying pets, excessive traffic, etc. Cover his cage with a sheet (as described on Routines) for privacy and security. Some soft music, hearing your voice in gentle and soothing tones, and having you spend time near his cage to give him moral support will keep stress levels low and expedite recovery. TV is a MUST during his waking hours, this will help him endure the otherwise tortorous boredom of the recovery process.
Cheeky Chinchillas has created a door hanger to help prevent playtime accidents from happening, it warns others that a chin is at play. For more safety items, see Safety & Supplier Resources. |
